Aluminum Valve Stem Maintenance

Kevin_56

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I wonder how many folks replace their valve stems to fix a slow leak when all it would have taken was this:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/XTS0/154901/N1769.oap?ck=Search_N1769_1415089_488&pt=N1769&ppt=C0337
Guilty as charged. Thought I had stripped the threads out of, yes, an Ariete Aluminum Stem. The nice cap with the rubber gasket sealed the stem well enough that I was not loosing air based on the soapy water test. Ordered new stems, replaced the one I thought had stripped threads.

It was after dismounting the tire and replacing the stem that I decided to remove the valve core from the one I removed. Yep you guessed it, it was the core that had the bad threads.

Up side, I was able to pay it forward and give my second set of stems to a friend that wanted the angle stems.

Valve core threads appear to be the weak link of the assembly, at least in my situation.

I have spares as you suggest, just in case.
 
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Igofar
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Good catch on your part. I have had to remove several cores from a lot of the "made in china" angled stems due to stripped threads. Try and use a good quality brand when possible. I believe I have some Michelin ones and some that BMW uses, but try and stay away from the chrome plated ones with the red plastic seal. The good ones are Nickle plated or brass IMHO.
You should also invest in a removal tool, or at least make one. A short rubber stem with a quality brass cap designed to remove cores works great once you use a drop of red locktite on it as a removal and insertion tool. Do Not over tighten them down too much, or you will simply crush the seal causing them to leak.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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In all my years of vehicle ownership I've never had a valve core go bad or a stem for that matter either. But as investments go <$1 for something that may never be used is acceptable.

My bike is in a carport and it's exposure to UV and other elements is less than that of my car. and given the long interval between my car's tire changes I've rethought the value of the changing stems at each tire change. I've already decided that 3,000mi oil change intervals are wasteful.

If anything the wear on the ST's rubber stems is more likely to come from filling than UV/ozone/whatever. The constant bending to accommodate the various air chucks that aren't readily compatible with tight quarters always makes me cringe a little.

I've got a trip coming up in Sept/Oct that may require a tire change prior to embarking. I'll have to decide on the Bridgeport or Fobo T-valve stems, but rubber stems will be out.
 
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Igofar
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Interesting thing about rubber...normally my speargun hangs in the garage with the Amber rubber bands in an air tight zip lock bag, which has kept them soft, supple, and in good condition for a the whole season.
In January of this year I placed new bands on the gun but left them on the gun, exposed to the air in the air in the garage. It's only been approximately six months, but they have turned dark brown, and show cracks around the wishbone just from hanging in the garage.
I have used the same Amber material for several years and two or more seasons on the ocean without this happening.
Just because you don't see it aging does not mean it isn't slowly dying.
 

Kevin_56

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The good ones are Nickle plated or brass IMHO.
The devil made me do this.

From your link in this thread from the Schrader-Bridgeport article “You should never use a brass valve core or unplated brass cap with an aluminum TPMS sensor stem,” Whitt said."
 
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Igofar
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The devil made me do this.

From your link in this thread from the Schrader-Bridgeport article “You should never use a brass valve core or unplated brass cap with an aluminum TPMS sensor stem,” Whitt said."
An Angel made me do this...“You should never use a brass valve core or unplated brass cap with an aluminum"...True, don't mix and match different types of metal. Use Brass valve cores with Brass stems, or Nickle plated cores with electroless plated caps or stems...never use brass valve core or unplated brass cap with aluminum...because it can have a chemical reaction and cause damage.
So what's your point again?
 
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Igofar
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You've pointed out yet another reason why I choose new rubber valve stems over anybody's angled alloy ones, thanks :rolleyes:
 

Kevin_56

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So what's your point again?
Larry you stated IMHO brass or Nickle Plated are best without clarifying brass should not be used with aluminum till the last post. You want people to follow your suggestions, without that added note some could have followed your wisdom and had problems. That is my point.

Diving to the depths is not the same as riding down the road. I am in agreement with Mark that if my internal o-ring on my Ariete stem were to fail, I would not have a catastrophic failure. Also my TPMS will alert me that I am having a loss of air.

You have good points that we should be aware that rubber over time will deteriorate. Good advise. The need to replace these internal o-rings at every tire change, overkill and needless.

I too will not be on your dive team if my bike were SCUBA gear, it is not.

We both can preach our points and neither will change each others minds.

You do great work, keep it up, just do not expect everyone to be like you. Thank God we are all different.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Kevin_56 said:
...rubber over time will deteriorate.
And different rubber compounds will deteriorate at differing rates in differing circumstances. Oil breaks down and needs replacing— eventually. That doesn't mean we should all absolutely replace it at 3000mi.

Doing proactive maintenance is a good thing. Doing it unnecessarily isn't productive but it's an option and builds confidence if needed.

When there's sufficient evidence that I'm not changing my valve stems cores and o-rings frequently enough I'll shorten the interval. Five years (metal stems) sound good. I'll keep an eye on pressure between intervals.
 
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Igofar
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It not my intention to suggest that people follow my suggestions without researching it themselves, I understand your point. However, other folks who suggest that things should not be checked or replaced unless they are broken, leaking, or dragging, could also have members following their wisdom and lead folks into dangerous conditions (no, not valve stems ) but along the same point as yours.
Second point you make between Diving and Riding is also a valid point, however, the comment "replacing these internal o-rings at every tire change, overkill and needless" is your opinion, which you have a right too, but what if your comments caused folks to believe they never have to check stuff?
Third point you make, I would allow you to be on my rescue team if I serviced your equipment :rofl1:
I am not trying to change your mind, or anyone else's for that fact, I am just trying to provide information so folks can make a reasonable choice and make their own choice.
You do great work as well, I would not wish anyone to be stuck with my OCD personality, I glad we're not all like me :nuts1:
 

dduelin

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This is what Ariete says about replacing the grommet:

http://www.ariete.com/en/catalog/road/valvole/

Or:



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Valves
TUBELESS VALVES BLUE IN PAIR

Available codes: ART. 11970: diam. 11,3



ADVANTAGES OF VALVE 90°BY BRIDGEPORT : PRACTICAL AND SAFE
-- It is fixed to the rim with a lock nut, therefore it cannot bend nor be expelled from the rim.
-- It need not to be replaced every time the tyre is changed.
-- The angled quill reduces the effect of centrifugal force, which tends to fling the valve core outwards in a conventional valve, leading to loss of pressure in the tyre.
-- It completely solves the problem of access for inflation.

ASSEMBLY:
1)Make sure the valve housing inside the rim is of the correct type
2)Carefully clean the valve housing inside the rim (hole and surrounding area)
3)Insert the valve in the rim housing, taking care not to damage the external gasket
4)Screw the nut fully on using the correct tool (Locking torque 7:10Nm)

Diam. 11,3 mm: standard rims.
Diam. 8,3 mm: rims Antera, Marvic, Marchesini, OZ Racing, Brembo.

WARNING !!.Do not use an extension to the lever of the tool provided: excessive locking torque may crack or break the valve stem.If the valve is incorrectly fitted, it may be violently ejected by air pressure.
TUV APPROVED (TA-MAN-9084/03)
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ST Gui

240Robert
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Igofar said:
but what if your comments caused folks to believe they never have to check stuff?
If someone's comment about 'overkill' leads anyone else to think 'I never have to check stuff' then the latter would be an idiot not capable of critical thinking and lacking in basic reading comprehension. It's highly likely that they're beyond help if they couldn't properly parse out what's been said.

Opinions are— interesting. It's important to know the difference between fact and opinion and what either is based on to separate validity from absurdity. If I buy a blue bike because I LIKE blue and think it's the nicest looking color I'm exercising my opinion and free will. If I buy a blue bike because someone told me blue is the fastest color then I'm an idiot on multiple levels.

Because everybody knows black is the fastest color duh!
 
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ST_Jim

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There are a tremendous number of "rubber" parts to worry about if you have OCD. (I use the quotes as most are not natural rubber, except for maybe the cheap ***** chinese crap.)

Brake calipers, master cylinders, brake lines, water hoses, gas lines, o-rings up the wazoo. Yet I don't know anyone that rebuilds calipers unless they are leaking.

Rubber valve stems are kind of interesting as on the outside they are subject to ozone and UV damage, inside there is medium pressure oxygen, and they get flexed when trying to use them and the air chuck slips.

Personally I trust a nitrile o-ring to hold up longer than a rubber stem, and don't do periodic PM on my Ariete stems.
 

ST_Jim

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And somewhere in the middle is probably the right spot to be in.

I wasn't meaning to pick on you, Igofar. My ST is due for a pretty fair amount of PM - do you hire out? ;-)
 

dduelin

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