removing front wheel 1300

I have bad mechanical Kharma. My 2012 has never had the ft wheels off and the axle pinch bolts will not release, any more twist and I will round out the bolts. I am going to try some stuff called Rost-Off from Wurth that penetrates and freezes the bolts.
Any suggestions?

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

Rust off is a good product. Make sue you have the right size hex in the screw. Try all that, and while twisting to untighten hit the top of the ratchet with a hammer or the likes. What I am saying is use the tool as an impact driver. Failing that you may have to use a chisel and get them loosened that way.

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

Hard to imagine those pinch bolts being over torqued. If it were mine,,, penetrating oil soak,,,, gentle heat from my 15amp hot air gun (for as long as it takes),,, then,, a quality hammer impact driver,,, with quality bits (very important). Here is an example of an average impact driver. Be patient,,, I have fought seized brake pins for a couple of nights. Don't get rash,,, and good luck,, Cat'

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Reversible-Impact-Driver-Set-70220/203310639

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

Tapping on the hex driver like cdnemsguy will help. I use a product called Free on frozen bolts then tap.

The pinch bolts are inexpensive. If the hex rounds out take a chisel and tap lightly at 90 degrees to make a small groove in the screwhead then use the chisel or better a small punch against the groove to tap 70-90 degrees to the head. It'll come loose and come right out. A cruder method is to clamp a small pair of locking pliers on the head. There is just enough flat to grab onto, you are going to replace it anyway if rounded out.

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

Along with penetrating oil, take a large flat end punch that has a diameter about as large as the head of the bolt or slightly smaller. If the hex is getting rounded carefully use the punch to tap back the top of the head and close up the hex. If the hex gets too tight from moving material with the punch, you can tap the hex driver back into the bolt to establish a tight fit. The impact from the hammer will also shock the bolt and allow it to loosen. I would try this before you chisel or groove the head. It is a tip I got from an old mechanic friend that has saved my butt many times on frozen engine bolts.

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

When my bike was being whispered at by Igofar, he mentioned this very problem and pointed out the the police versions have regular bolt heads which I proceeded to obtain. I think it's #22 here: http://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f1aaf870021c54be66d2/front-fork

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

Thanks for the help. Soaked them with ZEP penetrating oil and tapped with the head of a hammer and they came out. Had been soaking them for two days but forgot the back side of the bolt.

Re: removing ft wheel 1300

waltr said:

Thanks for the help. Soaked them with ZEP penetrating oil and tapped with the head of a hammer and they came out. Had been soaking them for two days but forgot the back side of the bolt.

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The OEM factory bolts on a civilian model bike are 6 mm Hex Head. I would suggest you follow docw1's advice and purchase (4) of the bolts from a Police Model. The Hex head version are too easily damaged (shops often use torx bits instead of hex head bits which damage the fastener) they can be damaged by rocks, clog up with dirt, and once they strip out, Honda gave them that nice taper so you can't get a purchase with any type of tool :nuts1:
The ones off the police version are a very strong 12 mm flange bolt that you could use a socket, wrench, or cresent wrench on them if need be.
For future use, a good penetrating oil can be made by mixing 1 part ATF fluid, and 1 part Acetone, or you could buy some PB Blaster.

Good to know.

Socket (allen) head bolts can be a problem, especially if the hex wrench does not fit tightly and properly, with good grip. One trick I learned years ago is after you are sure you have the proper size wrench and the tolerance may be too much due to wear, manufacturing variances, whatever, dip the wrench in motor oil and then dip it in fine sand. This helps the wrench grip the inside of the socket bolt. This, along with penetrating lube, heat, an impact driver, and most importantly, patience, usually works.

I've not had to replace the pinch bolts in 170,000 miles but I did have to buy a new 6mm hex drive a while back as it was part of a cheap set that I thought was going to ruin either an axle pinch bolt or the brake caliper bolts. The points of the hex wore down and it was a loose fit.