ST1100 Hi-Way pegs from old parts on Hand.

These are working pretty nice. It's most comfortable to just lay my legs over the pegs and feels a lot like the recliner built into my home sofa.

I ended up using a nut between the peg and the bolt as there was plenty of length in the bolt to do so and this helped to lock every thing down.

Is that bolt welded on?

No weld, I drilled a hole through the drop protector for the bolt. There is some jb weld in the photo but it did not hold so i removed the JB Weld and put a nut between the bolt and foot peg. These pegs where originally on a GL1100 with a u-clamp around the chrome crash bar.

I have a similar highway peg that has been on my XS1100 crash bar via u-clamp. Seem to be unable to figure out a way to solidly use the u-clamp on the ST1100 crash bar.
Not thrilled about drilling through it.
Did that nut enable everything to tighten up nicely?
I should probably post a couple pictures.

These pegs had a U-clamp that will clamp on a 7/8 to maybe 1 1/8 bar - but after looking at the options - I did what I did. Yes, the nut did the trick. I put about 300 miles on the bike today and I really like the pegs. Most of the time I just lay my leg over them and that works great.

Here are a couple pictures of mine.

The u-bolts will not quite snug up to the crash bar tight enough.

Must be an answer to this without drilling, but your solution seems to have worked out ok.

DeanR said:

Here are a couple pictures of mine.

The u-bolts will not quite snug up to the crash bar tight enough.

Must be an answer to this without drilling, but your solution seems to have worked out ok.

Click to expand...

Here's and idea, but I'm not sure if it will work. The problem is the bracket is designed for a larger diameter pipe than the tip over guard. What you need to do is make the pipe diameter larger. If an electrical conduit strap fits snugly on the tip over guard pipe (these come in 1/2", 3/4" etc. trade pipe sizes) then two, suitably trimmed with a hack saw should encircle the pipe and allow you to tighten the clamp snugly. It might take some fussing, and perhaps squeezing or opening the semicircle of steel with pliers, but you might make that work.

Yep, that's the same mount as my foot pegs - I chose to drill the hole using a 1/8 bit to start then several more bits up to the correct size. Then I just cut a small hole in the plastic cover and I think it works better than the clamp. I'm not at all concerned about the strength of the tip over bars and think they are still plenty strong enough to do their job. Also it was a tight fit getting the bolt in from the backside but very doable.

Thanks for posting that. I can't ride my ST1100 for more than an hour without needing to stretch my legs.

I've read every post about highway pegs and even called some of the sources for pegs. They've all dried up. I am going to build cruise pegs and this is the first effective approach I've seen in a while.

To me, the design considerations are:

Geometry for safety. The pegs need to be out of ground proximity in a heavy leaning turn.
Articulation. If they do contact the ground, they need to fold back and away. Without failure.
Comfort. Pegs must be located in a position where the unload the legs for long riding.
Stowage. They need to fold away when not in use.
Aesthetics. They must look good on the bike, and they must present the rider well. I saw a different model bike with custom cruise pegs and the rider was in a position so awkward looking he looked unsafe, if not goofy.

I'm making drawings sort of along the lines that you implemented.

Think of an aircraft on a carrier with folding wingtips. I'm thinking about welding on a folding wingtip extension to the tip-over wing assembly. Same concept as yours, but more of a planar "surface" for the feet than a cylindrical peg.

Funny thing is, while I have been thinking and thinking, you just went and did it!

There's something to admire.

Just do it!

I'd be interested to know if the highway pegs put your body in a position where you'd want to raise the handle bars. That's another thing I've been wondering about....

DeanR said:

Here are a couple pictures of mine.

The u-bolts will not quite snug up to the crash bar tight enough.

Must be an answer to this without drilling, but your solution seems to have worked out ok.

Click to expand...

It seems to me the simplest solution may be to bend new U straps for the smaller diameter tubing.

In Pirsig's "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" , Phaedrus' friend, who rides a BMW has kinda the same problem, his handlebars are slightly too small and are not tight in their clamp type mount. He recommends cutting up a beer can to make shims- the aluminum is soft, and conforms well. The shims could be made of plastic, ( think PVC pipe or PEX pipe) , beer cans, or any fairly soft, non-compressible material you have at hand.

In the story, Phaedrus' friend is aghast at the idea of using mere beer cans to shim the handlebars on his Teutonic wonder, and decides to put up with it. *Sigh*

Ashley971 said:

Articulation. If they do contact the ground, they need to fold back and away. Without failure.

Click to expand...

I remember using a pair of Bates folding foot pegs on a bar for highway pegs. They were mounted so they folded back (think Tomcat wings) instead of fold up (F-4U Corsair).

Their hinges were a friction fit so in normal (pillion) application they stayed up. As my highway pegs they were easy to deploy and stay in position. In the event of a tip over they wouldn't retract. But in an actual get-off they'd be swept back easily.

Locating them so as to provide actual relief is a problem on the ST. The MCL Blades are an improvement over stock pegs but their height puts the legs more horizontal than I'd like. But too low and they may scrape or worse in a spirited turn.

Floorboards are the best thing since sliced bread for long trips and no leg pain. On the rare times I got calf aches or cramps in my hips when on my GL1000 just standing up made all the difference. They weren't perfect but there is almost always compromise between man and machine at some level. Not appropriate for the ST but if there was a way...

ST Gui said:

Locating them so as to provide actual relief is a problem on the ST. The MCL Blades are an improvement over stock pegs but their height puts the legs more horizontal than I'd like. But too low and they may scrape or worse in a spirited turn.

Click to expand...

I would have bought the MCL pegs if they were available, but it would not have been without reservation. The surgery on the plastic wings looks less than professional and the position is not optimal.

Honestly, I must have mulled over this a hundred times in the time I've owned and ridden the bike.

Sweepback configuration seems like it would fail the ground-touch requirement. In the geometry of a ground strike while leaning, the peg arm should move back and up.

On the other hand, a sweepback design will look better when retracted and could be made to extend further outward.

I will design something and it will be good.

Until then, I will try not to imagine the comfort of those riding Harleys or other cruisers with floor boards.....

Except for buffeting and cruise pegs, the ST1100 is an amazing bike.

klaproth said:

In Pirsig's "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" , Phaedrus' friend, who rides a BMW has kinda the same problem, his handlebars are slightly too small and are not tight in their clamp type mount. He recommends cutting up a beer can to make shims- the aluminum is soft, and conforms well. The shims could be made of plastic, ( think PVC pipe or PEX pipe) , beer cans, or any fairly soft, non-compressible material you have at hand.

In the story, Phaedrus' friend is aghast at the idea of using mere beer cans to shim the handlebars on his Teutonic wonder, and decides to put up with it. *Sigh*

Click to expand...

Is @PhotoDoctor in Pirsig's book?

Ashley971 said:

The surgery on the plastic wings looks less than professional and the position is not optimal.

Click to expand...

I disagree. I got mine from one of the latest if not latest runs and the cutouts are very good. I agree the position while an improvement for me is not deal.

I look forward to your design's execution living up to your pronouncement.

ST Gui said:

I disagree. I got mine from one of the latest if not latest runs and the cutouts are very good. I agree the position while an improvement for me is not deal.

I look forward to your design's execution living up to your pronouncement.

Click to expand...

Aw jeez -- I was just looking at someone's video of the wings -- not yours. I'm sure yours look great! Don't take it personally, it wasn't meant that way. I'll do my best, but if it is not good, I won't use it. And I surely won't claim it's good.

Update, I now have these Emgo pegs on two ST1100's and many thousands of miles later I am very happy with them. They don't drag the ground, are cheap to buy at $ 30.00, and more comfortable than the Hi-way wings as I can lay my legs over the Emgo's or rest my feet on them. I've bought a 3rd ST1100 with Hiway wings and they are not as comfortable but look better and fold up to hide nicely.

It's been a long time but I'm closing in on a solution to The Highway Peg Quest.

Since commenting on this thread, I explored *exhaustively* buying off-the-shelf kits. There was nothing and I looked in every corner of the web. I am pleased to hear that a member of this forum is planning a restart to the MCL pegs (I think. I messaged him and received no reply)

I looked at a lot of pegs, floorboards and hardware made for other bikes to explore how they might be modified for the ST1100. I even bought a set of Kuryukan pegs and pivoting clamps. Nothing worked.

As of October 2018, I have come to the conclusion that @PhotoDoctor's concept is almost ideal.

His selection of pegs is what I concluded is best. I ordered a set. They match the ST1100 in terms of color and styling. They're inexpensive. They lend themselves to customization.

For my height (69 inches), the positioning needs to be lower to be able to comfortably get my feet on the pegs, and for best ride comfort.

I made a bracket that attaches to the tip-over wing cover threaded boss. Here is how they look:

BUT, this will NOT work. The position feels great. Very comfortable and easy to find while riding -- but the mounting is not structurally sound.

I CONCLUDE:

The best mounting will be achieved by welding a bracket to hold the pegs onto the exposed 12mm diameter struts under the wings. That will move the pegs about an inch aft of where they attach in the photos. The bracket will include a though hole allowing the pegs to be bolted on. With this geometry (using these pegs) there is sufficient ground clearance that the pegs can be fixed, although adding a retraction spring is straightforward.

That approach has the following benefits:

It's inexpensive.
It requires no cutting or modification of the wing covers -- and those things are nearly impossible to buy
It is structurally sound.
Cosmetically better.
Places the pegs in a more comfortable riding and finding position.
Allows the pegs to be cheaply removed/replaced

The downsides:

Requires welding.

I even ordered a split collar clamp to see if the welding could be avoided, but alas Honda made every angle of the strut at a weird angle so the pegs could not be mounted parallel or at right angles to anything.

If I had the initiative, I would design a custom bracket that bolts to that strut. That's the money shot. If someone made that available, it's game, set match!

Anyway, that's the update. When I get free time, I'll find a welder/fabricator and call this one done.





Another angle...

Thanks @fnmag. I wish that all of we ST1100 owners could have an option to mount pegs like this. All it would take is for the bracket to be fabricated.

The pegs cost $11. In volume, the bracket wouldn't cost much more.

There's another benefit: With the right bracket design, the pegs ($11 for the set) actually could help protect the plastic wings in a tip-over.