Article LED Headlight Conversion

Andrew Shadow

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# 2 for me. I turned the bars to full stop for clearance and reached in around the bars to change the bulb, turned the bars to full stop in the opposite direction and did the other side. I didn't remove anything. You have to work by feel to some degree but very doable- maybe 30 minutes for both bulbs start to finish.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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I used Option 2 as well. Turn the handlebars as Andrew mentioned. I also found someone's suggestion of standing on the opposite side of the bike for each bulb to help.

Put away the targeting computer and use The Force. There are pics of what the bail looks like and its orientation. Commit that to memory and visualize (do by feel) and its easy peasy.

The bail is under a hooked bit so it's 1) push 2) slide 3) release 4) lift. I found pushing the bail for both releasing and securing bulb to be the hardest part. After you've done the dance a couple of times and found your moves it goes pretty quickly.
 

greg_in_npvl

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Thanks for the quick reply guys. Gonna try option #2. Think I'll be fine doing this by feel. Some vehicle headlight bulb compartments are so tight I've had to do them by feel as well. Looking forward to the challenge. Ahem [emoji57]

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I turn the handle bars, but do number 1. I can change both bulbs in less than 5 minutes, but I have had a lot of practice.......
 

greg_in_npvl

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How many ST riders does it take to change a light bulb???

When you have the mounting plate inserted re-insert the wire clip to hold it down. This might take a while ;)

IMG_20170718_115459.jpg

ALL DONE!!!! Now get out and ride! Stay safe! :06biker:
This may take awhile? Man, that's the understatement of the century. I've been fighting with both of these clips for over 2 hours! :mad: I'm even referring to this pic from the oztoc site with no luck.

Headlight_Retainer_Clip.jpg

I have ample room to work with. Trying to do it by feel. No luck. Not going to give up. Seems the PO gave up in that when removing the rubber boots both clips swung open without me even touching them. I don't want to take this shortcut since I believe any jiggling of the bulb in the housing may shorten its life.

Help :bow1:

Greg
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Are you installing the factory ST1300 bulb? (It's installed with all three tabs intact.)

To close:

1) Push
2) Slide right
3) Release

It seems you're trying to latch the bale. You can see where the it's hooked into the bracket next to the screw at 2 o'clock/upper right of the socket.

You have to push the bale against the bulb so its hook can slide under the bracket. Once you can't slide it any further just release it and it should lock in place.

The PO might have bent the bail so that it won't latch until reworked. Did they add a non-ST H4 bulb with a shim? If so it's not needed and should be removed.

I'm not sure but if you push too hard the end of the bail might lift and hit the stop before it can slide under and into position.

Good luck!
 

greg_in_npvl

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Are you installing the factory ST1300 bulb? (It's installed with all three tabs intact.)
Negative. I was installing the Evitek LEDs.

To close:

1) Push
2) Slide right
3) Release
Man... I eventually got them both to latch. You guys really don't want to know how many hours this took me. Bad news, looks like I'll be repeating this procedure in the near future as my left LED does not work with the high beams. Was it defective out of the box? Don't know. I've had these LEDs laying around since late last year.

It seems you're trying to latch the bale. You can see where the it's hooked into the bracket next to the screw at 2 o'clock/upper right of the socket.

You have to push the bale against the bulb so its hook can slide under the bracket. Once you can't slide it any further just release it and it should lock in place.

The PO might have bent the bail so that it won't latch until reworked. Did they add a non-ST H4 bulb with a shim? If so it's not needed and should be removed.

I'm not sure but if you push too hard the end of the bail might lift and hit the stop before it can slide under and into position.

Good luck!
I was working in very cramped quarters and everything was being done by feel. I've removed these type of clips before on auto headlights without too much trouble. In those cases... you can usually see what you're doing. It's possible the latches are slightly bent.

The PO had non-ST H4 bulbs installed without shims. They, like me for these Evitek LEDs, simply snipped off the two (2) tabs. I did order shims via eBay from some seller in Hungary. I never did use them. Only ordered them since this was the first time I was changing out headlight bulbs on the ST1300 and wasn't sure if I should use them. Negative. The socket for the Evitek LEDs was tight and secure with the one (wider) remaining tab. It also helped that I was finally able to properly clip in the latch.

I'm hoping the next time I do this I won't be spending 6+ hours in the (cold) garage. Been itching for a ride and now I'm one step closer.

Thanks for the replies guys! :policeST:
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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The PO had non-ST H4 bulbs installed without shims.
As they should be. Cutting the two bottom tabs is SOP for the non-ST bulbs.

I asked about the bulbs because when some people use non-ST bulbs and cut the tabs they think the shims are needed. They're not used on the 1300 just the 1100. That added thickness caused a problem for at least one member.


Bad news, looks like I'll be repeating this procedure in the near future as my left LED does not work with the high beams.
It may not be the bulb. You might spray some contact cleaner in the Hi/Lo switch before pulling the bulb. It's a long shot but a quick one.

I hope it goes quicker for you next time.
 

greg_in_npvl

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Good info regarding cleaning the switch and/or the HI relay. Very useful wiring diagram. Thank you.

What prompted me to follow this thread was to not only replace my standard headlight bulbs with LED headlights but my left side low beam was out. Months later, the left side high beam went out. So now I knew I'd be replacing headlight bulbs. When I installed these Evitek LEDs I never thought to test them. It's possible the left side high beam was defective... or I may have damaged it. You see, last night when I finally got everything inserted properly (including the spring clip), I was struggling to route the wires to connect it. At one point I turned the handlebar and the wiring must have snagged on something because the left side Evitek LED unit got yanked out. Thankfully the plastic nubs which holds it into place didn't break off since I was able to reinsert it and lock it back into place. Did I damage it? Unknown. After spending countless hours last night installing them... the last thing I want to do now is remove them. :(

Cleaning the switch and/or checking the HI relay seems to be much easier. :cool:

BTW, today was my first ride of the season. It's been a long/cold winter here in the Chicago area.
0315181153-1.jpg
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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my left side low beam was out. Months later, the left side high beam went out.
While it won't hurt to test the Evitek to exclude it to a certainty my money is on other problems. (That usually means it's probably not what I thought. LOL)

Here's a post to give you some ideas about headlight weirdness (even though you don't seem to have a problem with the neutral light):

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?162775-No-headlights-Hi-Beam-indicator-always-on&p=2069397&viewfull=1#post2069397
 
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Re: ***UNDER CONSTRUCTION*** LED Headlight Conversion - How To (with pictures!!!)

Thx very much -- big help.
I m new to owning a Pan but i like LED conversion very much. Coz of I live in Holland and we don't have any sort of conformity on a bike I can do as I please.
 

STGuy

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Good info regarding cleaning the switch and/or the HI relay. Very useful wiring diagram. Thank you.

What prompted me to follow this thread was to not only replace my standard headlight bulbs with LED headlights but my left side low beam was out. Months later, the left side high beam went out. So now I knew I'd be replacing headlight bulbs. When I installed these Evitek LEDs I never thought to test them. It's possible the left side high beam was defective... or I may have damaged it. You see, last night when I finally got everything inserted properly (including the spring clip), I was struggling to route the wires to connect it. At one point I turned the handlebar and the wiring must have snagged on something because the left side Evitek LED unit got yanked out. Thankfully the plastic nubs which holds it into place didn't break off since I was able to reinsert it and lock it back into place. Did I damage it? Unknown. After spending countless hours last night installing them... the last thing I want to do now is remove them. :(

Cleaning the switch and/or checking the HI relay seems to be much easier. :cool:

BTW, today was my first ride of the season. It's been a long/cold winter here in the Chicago area.
0315181153-1.jpg
Well get ready to put it away Naperville because we have more snow coming today... up by Rockford anyway

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When installing the Evitek F2 on the ST1100;

1. What is the best way to gain access to the bulbs?

2. Do the emitters need to be verticle or horizontal?

3. Does the rubber boot need to be cut to accomodate the bulb? How do you do that?

4. I have a shim. Do I need to make any mods to the bulb?

Thanks.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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This is best answered by someone who's made the conversion on an 1100 but why let that stop me. LOL

As to access I have no clue and sadly don't recall how I managed on my 1300.

I think spidey said the vertical is the way to go but you'd know after testing one installed F2.

The F2 disassembles so there's no need to cut the boot.

You'll still nee to cut or bend the two bottom tabs and use the shims.
 
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1. To access the bulb, just turn the bar to left/right deadlock position, reach down there to pull out the H4 plug, and then pull out the rubber cover, then undo the metal clip on the bulb, now the bulb is free. to install new led bulb, just do the reverse process.
2. Emitter need to be vertical, but most bulbs comes slighted tilted to get the best light pattern
3. rubber boot is your guard to prevent dust getting into the light housing, don't cut it, baby it

I currently have the most powerful LED H4 light installed on my bike, each bulb rated 45W, drawing 3.7Amp current, however, it is still not as good as the new projected headlights(such as on my wife's sienna), even not as strong as my led running light, which are CREE XHP70 chips and rated 18W each, projected. Projected light the way to go.
 
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Take some pictures of the install and the light patterns. Make sure that the XHP70 is being cooled well, it has a high fail rate if not cooled...
 
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