Article LED Headlight Conversion

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I find it very difficult to get a good angle on the bulb socket using methods 1 and 2. I use method 5 - remove the side plastics. With the middle fairings and inner fairings out of the way, it's easy to see what you're doing and you get both hands in if you need to. This was especially important when I installed HIDs.

I'll be replacing the HIDs with LEDs next month and my choice is Cyclops. They recently introduced a 7000/3800 lumen hi-lo bulb. It's the brightest one I've found and it's a clean white color. $75 each and you'll need the H4 adapters.

Good luck.
 
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I changed out the turn signal and taillight a long time ago. The front turn signals are Flashback - white running and amber flash for turn. You need a clear lens to replace the amber OEM lens.

The taillight got a Samsung red LED run/brake. When you brake, it quickly flashes 7 times ten stays on.

Ride safe
 
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They recently introduced a 7000/3800 lumen hi-lo bulb. It's the brightest one I've found and it's a clean white color.
It is not all what they claim it is. It creates a fuzzy cut off which puts the bright spot too low for on road driving. There is a dark line in the middle of the beam. It is better suited for off road driving. The XHP50 has a thermal issue. So carry a spare. Look at the picture on post #44 here.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/h4-led-by-evitek-f2-has-achived-the-same-focus-as-h4-halogen-bulb-new-2018.1286743/page-3

the 7000 uses 25 watts (not 50) and the F2 uses 30 watts (not 36).
 
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Andrew Shadow

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Thanks for the well-done instructions! Great photos.

An option that I prefer for using H4 bulbs of any type is a flat adapter that fastens to the H4 bulb and matches the OEM tab pattern. About $15 a set, metal, and reusable. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-ADAPTER-RINGS-HONDA-ST1100-ST1300-ST-1100-1300-LIFETIME-WARRANTY/132185937656?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
FYI- Despite the advertising the ST1300 does not require the adapter rings- only the ST1100 does. If you are ordering from Cyclops they sell an option for the ST1300 where it will be supplied with the correct mounting base so that the bulbs will fit exactly as the original Honda bulbs do.
 
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Andrew: According to Cyclops support as well as their web order system, a set of two shims is needed for their LED light kit for ST1300. It shows up in the cart during checkout.

I went back to the vendor of the HIDs I bought 2 years ago to get their LED system (SoCalMotoGear.com). Install is this weekend, so I'll let ya'll know.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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According to Cyclops support as well as their web order system, a set of two shims is needed for their LED light kit for ST1300. It shows up in the cart during checkout.
I've not owned the Cyclops bulbs but I'm pretty certain these 'shims' are a different use case then what most ST1100 drivers need.

The Cyclops bulb has a removable H4 flange that most of the free (and not so free?) world is familiar with that's not compatible with our STs.

Cyclops provides the option of a US/NO-specific flange (or 'shim') that is compatible with our STs. It's used instead of the typical H4 base and not along with a modified base.

The 1300 doesn't need the more familiar shims since the headlight support for the bulb uses the rim of the bulb and not the tabs for installation. The 12 o'clock tab is for orientation. Cutting two tabs off doesn't noticeable affect the installation or output.

The 1100 uses all the tabs for support so cutting the two lower tabs off means the bulb is unstable and can't be installed properly. So there are shims.

I think this is all correct. We'll know soon enough if it's not. LOL
 

Andrew Shadow

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Andrew: According to Cyclops support as well as their web order system, a set of two shims is needed for their LED light kit for ST1300. It shows up in the cart during checkout.

I went back to the vendor of the HIDs I bought 2 years ago to get their LED system (SoCalMotoGear.com). Install is this weekend, so I'll let ya'll know.
From what I understand from what I have read when you click that you have an ST1300 the additional charge is for a different base that is designed for the ST1300 headlamp instead of the standard H4 base that does not fit. The additional charge is not for shims as are used on the ST1100.
 
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I am curious about the longevity of these LED bulbs.

I had HID's but reverted back to stock because of the unreliability of the HIDs lighting and the problem of replacement out on the road in the event of a failure.

Even the stock halogen's I've had to replace my left one like three times - never the right though!

So anyone been running the LED's for more than 2 years?

I installed HIDs almost 2 1/2 years ago. About a month ago, they became unreliable. Switch to high beam and one would go off. Switch back and both would be on. Switch to high beam again and both would go off. Turn off the ignition and restart the engine was a reset. Too bad. I really liked the setup.

I'll be replacing them with LEDs as soon as I can.
 
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Just completed the LED headlight, sidelight and switchback conversion on the ST. Thanks to the OP for the instructions and links. I got my lights from amazon.ca because the .com site was out of stock.

Evitek headlights
DDM sidelights
Switchback LED's from SuperBrightLEDs.com

I am surprised how bright the DDM lights are... I don't ride much in the dark, but will update my post here once I have taken them out at night.

33313943_10155637311978526_4508898835329712128_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=44467a698c7055018dfeb7d4080873.jpg
 
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ST Gui

240Robert
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Looks nice. Are the DMM sidelights the lights next to the headlights or do you have lights on the sides of the bike?
 
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I just did mine this weekend and it took 2 days. It wasn't fun at all and I hope to not do it again anytime soon. I should get 50,000 hours out of these led bulbs before having to endure this ordeal again.
 

greg_in_npvl

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Chicago 'burbs
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I just did mine this weekend and it took 2 days. It wasn't fun at all and I hope to not do it again anytime soon. I should get 50,000 hours out of these led bulbs before having to endure this ordeal again.
LOL. I feel your pain. Reinstalling those clips by feel was the biggest PITA for me. I understood how they needed to go back. I just had a helluva time getting them to clip properly. Let's hope we all get 50k hours out of them.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

FrogmanDave

Dave Scott
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I just finished the LED upgrade to my headlights, park lights and did the clear lenses and switchbacks for front turn signals. The F2 bulbs that are being sold on Amazon right now are called Katanas. Bulbs Here on Amazon The instructions that come with them refer to the bulbs as F2's so I guess they are the same ones referenced in this thread. These bulbs are amazing. Period!

I have read in this thread where guys fought getting the old bulbs out and the new ones installed. The wire bail is the problem. What I don't understand is why you would fight this in the first place. I removed the windshield, the cowling under the windshield and the instrument cluster. There is all kinds of room to work on it then. It took me 15 minutes to uninstall and around 20 minutes to put it back together. This appears to be the easiest way to gain access in a short amount of time. Just a heads up that may help others in the future.
 
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everett, washington
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How many ST riders does it take to change a light bulb???

Hello fellow ST riders! :welcome1:

If you're trying to figure out how to install your new LED headlights then you have come to the right place. I recently changed out the lighting on the front of my ST1300 to all LEDs and realized information on the process was scattered all over so I decided to document my entire process by taking photos along the way. My hope is that this guide will help you to visualize the process and help you understand the mechanisms involved so that you can spend less time fumbling around and looking all over the threads for info.

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Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, electrical engineer, or a rocket scientist (go figure)! I am just an average DIY-er so use this information accordingly. Enough chit-chat, let's get to it! :06biker:

BACKGROUND INFO AND SPECS



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It is important to note that the tabs on the OEM bulb and the notches on the OEM housing do not have the same angle as an aftermarket H4 bulb (see photo below for comparison).

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Notice the bottom two tabs on the OEM bulb are more spread out. Because of this you will need to modify the new bulb. Common solutions are

  1. Cut the tabs off
  2. Bend the tabs back, or
  3. Use shims
SIDE NOTE

WHAT ARE SHIMS? They are metal rings cut to match the OEM tab angle. You just slip them on over the bulb so that you can lock them in place. Although not required for this project I want to share the info here.

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Next item is how to access the bulbs. I used option #3 but other common solutions are (see images)


  1. Reach in from from the front of the bike and below the headlight housing
  2. Reach in from above behind the handlebars
  3. Remove the dash/instrument panel
  4. Remove the front windscreen and surrounding plastics
  5. Remove side fairings
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HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT

Locate the headlight. You will see a big round rubber boot with an electrical connector in the middle. You need to remove this connector. To do this you need to press down on the tabs located on either side of the connector (see image). You may need to dig your fingers into the boot a little bit to reach these tabs. You are disconnecting the harness from the bulb so you should only have to pull straight out but some wiggling may be required.

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Once you have the connector from the wiring harness out, remove the rubber boot. Just grab from the edges and pull/peel back.

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When the boot is off it will reveal the wire clip and the bulb. Now unlatch the wire clip, or bail clip, by pushing in with your thumb and turning slightly. The clip will unhook and swing open to free the bulb from the housing.

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Then remove the bulb. Just pull straight out. Be careful not to let your fingers touch the glass if you plan on keeping the bulbs. If you do accidentally touch the glass then use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to clean it.

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Now before you insert the new LED bulb you will need to modify it as mentioned earlier. Choose your weapon. I used a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel bit to cut and file off the lower two tabs.

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You need to know that the mounting plate (blue arrow, see image) that has the three tabs is removable. Just hold the plate with one hand the the fan with your other hand and twist. That will release the plate.

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Now take the mounting plate (blue arrow, see image) and insert into the headlight housing by itself. Do not attach it to the bulb or else it will not fit! It will all make sense later. You must align the top tab with the notch in the housing (see image).

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When you have the mounting plate inserted re-insert the wire clip to hold it down. This might take a while ;)

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Now that the clip is back in put the rubber boot back on. Still no bulb should be inserted!

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Okay, now you can insert the LED bulb in through the rubber boot. Remember those notches on the bulb from when you removed the mounting plate? Well you need to align them so that you can insert the bulb and then twist to lock it back in place. It will help to look through the front of the housing when you insert the bulb. Look for the notch to help you with the alignment (blue arrow, see image).

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After you have the bulb locked in you're almost done. Just plug the electrical connector to the new bulb and tuck away and zip-tie the wires and the LED driver (ballast/box thing). I tied them off to the side so that it would not interfere when turning the handle bars.

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POSITION LIGHT REPLACEMENT

Next we will replace the position lights, or park lights, or marker lights. The little guys in the top corner (see images).

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Locate the bulb socket. You will find a small rubber boot at the end of the wiring harness (see image). Pull this rubber socket straight out, but use caution! There is nothing really "locking" the bulb on so as you pull, the bulb may dislodge from the rubber socket and fall into the housing.

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Once you have the socket removed simply pull the old bulb out, and plug in the new LED.

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ALL DONE!!!! Now get out and ride! Stay safe! :06biker:
Now that is a very useful post my new friend.....Been looking for the right solution made easy. You should consider posting on goldwingdocs as well...lol. found your info very helpful as I'm a brand new owner of a 2001 st 1100 with 34'000 miles. Low beams out when bought and replaced with old bulbs from my old Goldwing. I had a heck of a time converting to hid on the gold wing and advice from others helps tremendously...thanx to you
 

ibike2havefun

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Did this today, super happy with the results! Lots of swearing along the way and will be seeing the wire bail in my sleep tonight. But all in all a couple of hours well spent!
Congratulations on staying with it to the end. Your reward comes the first time you're out after dark. Wow what a difference.
 
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