Article LED Headlight Conversion

ST Gui

240Robert
Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 12, 2011
Messages
9,262
Location
SF-Oakland CA
Bike
ST1300, 2010
and will be seeing the wire bail in my sleep tonight.
:rofl1: I feel your pain. The first one was rough. The second one was easier. Replacing either won't be fun but should be easier still.

I did the same thing you did – take a pic after changing just the one headlight and was stunned that I saw what your pic showed. Couldn't believe the difference.

You'll wonder where the yellow went when you – switch to LED headlights.
 

aum

Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
2
Age
39
Location
Las Vegas, NV
This post was a life saver, thank you for it is still being used by newbie ST-enthusiasts. I ended up switching my halogen bulbs to these H4 LEDs:


Best $20 spent in awhile. Definitely, made a big difference in visibility. Note: the mounting plate tabs on these LEDs are made of plastic and can be easily cut using shears (as it is still a requirement to fit the housing, as mentioned in OPs instructions).
________________________

I also change the peanut bulbs to these 194 LEDs:


A little overkill because you get a total of 12 LEDs for $4.99. If there is anyone in Vegas that needs a couple of these, just shoot me a message or reply and I'll gladly give you a set.
________________________

For the process, I opted to follow OP's method of removing the dash, which requires removing the windshield, to gain easier accessiblity to the bulb compartments. The hardest part for me was removing the connector from the headlight bulbs. The plastic tabs on the connectors require frog fingertip grip in such a small space between the rubber boot. Eventually with enough patience and sore fingertips, I was able to remove the connectors.

Thank you all for the knowledge gained and the shared wisdom. Cheers to brighter futures!

Take care and safe travels~
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
4
Age
67
Location
Alberta. Canada
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
1
Age
63
Location
Cleveland, OH USA
How many ST riders does it take to change a light bulb???

Hello fellow ST riders! :welcome1:

If you're trying to figure out how to install your new LED headlights then you have come to the right place. I recently changed out the lighting on the front of my ST1300 to all LEDs and realized information on the process was scattered all over so I decided to document my entire process by taking photos along the way. My hope is that this guide will help you to visualize the process and help you understand the mechanisms involved so that you can spend less time fumbling around and looking all over the threads for info.

MCSAF0100.jpg PhotoGrid_1500355823197.jpg 20170716_010646.jpg

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, electrical engineer, or a rocket scientist (go figure)! I am just an average DIY-er so use this information accordingly. Enough chit-chat, let's get to it! :06biker:

BACKGROUND INFO AND SPECS



20170713_063804.jpg 20170709_144648.jpg 20170709_144606.jpg 20170709_144808.jpg
20170709_144808.jpg 20170709_144847.jpg

It is important to note that the tabs on the OEM bulb and the notches on the OEM housing do not have the same angle as an aftermarket H4 bulb (see photo below for comparison).

IMG_20170718_103236.jpg

Notice the bottom two tabs on the OEM bulb are more spread out. Because of this you will need to modify the new bulb. Common solutions are

  1. Cut the tabs off
  2. Bend the tabs back, or
  3. Use shims

***SIDE NOTE***

WHAT ARE SHIMS? They are metal rings cut to match the OEM tab angle. You just slip them on over the bulb so that you can lock them in place. Although not required for this project I want to share the info here.

20170710_093300.jpg 20170715_232827.jpg 20170710_093310.jpg

Next item is how to access the bulbs. I used option #3 but other common solutions are (see images)


  1. Reach in from from the front of the bike and below the headlight housing
  2. Reach in from above behind the handlebars
  3. Remove the dash/instrument panel
  4. Remove the front windscreen and surrounding plastics
  5. Remove side fairings
IMG_20170717_235156.jpg IMG_20170717_235532.jpg IMG_20170717_235924.jpg IMG_20170718_121746.jpg

HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT

Locate the headlight. You will see a big round rubber boot with an electrical connector in the middle. You need to remove this connector. To do this you need to press down on the tabs located on either side of the connector (see image). You may need to dig your fingers into the boot a little bit to reach these tabs. You are disconnecting the harness from the bulb so you should only have to pull straight out but some wiggling may be required.

20170709_161511.jpg IMG_20170718_000114.jpg IMG_20170718_000632.jpg

Once you have the connector from the wiring harness out, remove the rubber boot. Just grab from the edges and pull/peel back.

IMG_20170718_001400.jpg

When the boot is off it will reveal the wire clip and the bulb. Now unlatch the wire clip, or bail clip, by pushing in with your thumb and turning slightly. The clip will unhook and swing open to free the bulb from the housing.

IMG_20170718_001849.jpg

Then remove the bulb. Just pull straight out. Be careful not to let your fingers touch the glass if you plan on keeping the bulbs. If you do accidentally touch the glass then use a small amount of rubbing alcohol to clean it.

IMG_20170718_002806.jpg 20170703_231534.jpg 20170703_231527.jpg

Now before you insert the new LED bulb you will need to modify it as mentioned earlier. Choose your weapon. I used a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel bit to cut and file off the lower two tabs.

IMG_20170718_105947.jpg IMG_20170718_110336.jpg

You need to know that the mounting plate (blue arrow, see image) that has the three tabs is removable. Just hold the plate with one hand the the fan with your other hand and twist. That will release the plate.

IMG_20170718_110636.jpg

Now take the mounting plate (blue arrow, see image) and insert into the headlight housing by itself. Do not attach it to the bulb or else it will not fit! It will all make sense later. You must align the top tab with the notch in the housing (see image).

IMG_20170718_114911.jpg

When you have the mounting plate inserted re-insert the wire clip to hold it down. This might take a while ;)

IMG_20170718_115459.jpg

Now that the clip is back in put the rubber boot back on. Still no bulb should be inserted!

IMG_20170718_115733.jpg

Okay, now you can insert the LED bulb in through the rubber boot. Remember those notches on the bulb from when you removed the mounting plate? Well you need to align them so that you can insert the bulb and then twist to lock it back in place. It will help to look through the front of the housing when you insert the bulb. Look for the notch to help you with the alignment (blue arrow, see image).

IMG_20170718_120106.jpg

After you have the bulb locked in you're almost done. Just plug the electrical connector to the new bulb and tuck away and zip-tie the wires and the LED driver (ballast/box thing). I tied them off to the side so that it would not interfere when turning the handle bars.

IMG_20170718_121106.jpg IMG_20170718_120702.jpg

POSITION LIGHT REPLACEMENT

Next we will replace the position lights, or park lights, or marker lights. The little guys in the top corner (see images).

IMG_20170718_130343.jpg IMG_20170718_124943.jpg IMG_20170718_125601.jpg Screenshot_20170713-061737.jpg IMG_20170718_125359.jpg

Locate the bulb socket. You will find a small rubber boot at the end of the wiring harness (see image). Pull this rubber socket straight out, but use caution! There is nothing really "locking" the bulb on so as you pull, the bulb may dislodge from the rubber socket and fall into the housing.

IMG_20170718_123133.jpg

Once you have the socket removed simply pull the old bulb out, and plug in the new LED.

IMG_20170718_124035.jpg IMG_20170718_124550.jpg 20170715_233536.jpg

ALL DONE!!!! Now get out and ride! Stay safe! :06biker:

This is an incredibly accurate and helpful post, I used $20 H4 bulbs off Amazon, the base was alum and thick but the bail still fit, barely, I trimmed off the lower two tabs and the larger top 12:00 position tab aligned the bulb as others stated. Bulbs pull 25watts and did not overheat high/low switch or the bulb housing and rubber after static no wind test of 7 minutes, got warm but not hot. Kept the orig halogen parking light bulbs installed, personal preference https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RS7926N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anyone who takes this much time to help others is a genuinely considerate person, thank you JayBear.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
3,106
Location
Millgrove, ON, Canada
Bike
2016 Versys 1000
STOC #
6627
Well, hate to burst your bubble, but $130 right now..... careful on Amazon these days........
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2021
Messages
107
Location
Oly Pen, WA. USA
Bike
2010 ST1300A
It's a little hard to tell for sure from the first post. When looking down from the top, are the connector tabs on the sides of the plug. (position A) ?
 

Attachments

STRider

Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 17, 2020
Messages
1,089
Age
64
Location
Oregon
Bike
2012 ST1300A
STOC #
50
It's a little hard to tell for sure from the first post. When looking down from the top, are the connector tabs on the sides of the plug. (position A) ?
I think the answer you're looking for is "A".
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2021
Messages
107
Location
Oly Pen, WA. USA
Bike
2010 ST1300A
Have a look at the video in the below thread. It illustrates the locking tabs that need to be squeezed starting around the 25 second mark.
ST1300 - Headlight Bulb Change [VIDEO]
That is a clear video, Andrew, thank you for bringing it to my attention. But what I found is that while there are those tabs on the socket, there is nothing that they connect to. In the video, you can clearly see that the socket attached to the bulbs but there is nothing around the bulb except the soft rubber boot. Perhaps the tabs are supposed to grab the boot, or maybe some inner connection to the holes on the bulb pins themselves? But when I reached in for a gentle test wiggle, I was able to work it off of the bulb without any particular squeezing on the sides. Maybe I was just lucky
 
Last edited:

Obo

Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
4,244
Location
East Coast Canada
Bike
'03 ST1300A
Hi All, just installed LED bulbs in mine and stoked with them but the I noticed the gap between the 2 x inner reflectors are different to the outer reflector.
(Right side bigger gap than left side)
Any ideas please?
I'd say the gap is normal. It's there for the headlight adjustment up or downward by the knob on the dash.
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2021
Messages
13
Age
48
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
I'd say the gap is normal. It's there for the headlight adjustment up or downward by the knob on the dash.
I assumed so too, as I did not touch any adjustment while swapping the bulbs over. I just wanted to be sure I didn't break something while doing it but everything is sturdy and seems OK. Just never looked at that difference between the LEFT & RIGHT in the headlight before, or shall I say paid attention to it. Thanks, heaps.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2022
Messages
596
Age
65
Location
Rhome Texas
Bike
2011 ST_1300 PA
STOC #
9102
Thanks all for input on this thread, will be very helpful when I come to changing my bulbs
 
Top Bottom