The Flip Clip Mod

Uncle Phil

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002064
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698
Here's the setup I came up with. Mine actually still looks stock.
1. You will need to replace the 4 M8 X 35 stock bolts through the clamps with four M8 X 60's, 4 10mm nuts to use as spacers, and two ST top clamps from Honda (The 1996 and up part number should be 53131-HB6-000, the 1995 and back - 95014-22100). Lowe's Home Improvement was where I found the bolts and nuts. Remove the cover and the four bolts holding the bars. You should be able to lay them slightly out of the way without removing any lines or cables. Put a towel over your tank before you start for protection.
2. The square ignition cover over the hole just pops off (it's sticky taped). Find a closet pole (Home Depot carries them) that is 1 inch in diameter and cut a 1 inch section. Paint it SEM Graphite Gray (many auto parts carry this brand and color). This sleeve will allow you to use the stock key and keep it centered. It is tight, but with the square cover removed, there is clearance. Drill a hole that the below screw into the front strap can go into to secure it. The pole section slides over the ignition lock and looks pretty nice, since it lines up with the round edges of the ignition hole in the cover. It also fills in the gap and help secures the cover. Or you can use a 35mm film canister and just cut the bottom out of it.
3. Take the wire cable keeper at the front and rotate it and bend slightly. Cut a small strap about an inch long and bend into a u-shape around the upturned bar (it bolts back in the same holes to the front of the triple tree). Note the wire (from the front of the bike - from |______| to |````````````| ) There is a strap that clips to this wire. The replacement strap looks like |_| with a hole bored through both legs to match the original screw hole size and the new height. The screw goes through the cover, through the first leg of the strap, over the wire and into the second leg of the strap and into the sleeve -| -|-|-| <-
4. Cut two more straps from the same material about 1 1/4 long. This is for the screws at the back of the cover. Drill holes in each end of these straps big enough for the original screws to go through. Get a slip nut (like the body work uses). These slip over the cover and the screw goes through them. This allows you to bolt the top of the two straps to the two back holes in the cover.
5. Then bolt the bottom of the straps to the bottom of the triple tree where the back screws originally went. If you paint these straps with the SEM Graphite paint, it matches the ST gray perfectly.
With this set up, the only actual change to the cover is to remove the square ignition cover. It is a little tight with gloved hands, but it looks stock and works well. And unless you knew what you were looking for, you would never know the handle bars were raised. And if you wanted to change it back, you haven't destroyed anything. When you are finished, it looks like (from the side) -
(o}x)==== where ( - new top clamp, o - handlebars, } - old top clamp flipped, x - 10 mm nut for a spacer, ) - bottom clamp, ==== - forks. Hope that helps.
 

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paulcb

- - - Tetelestai - - - R.I.P. - 2022/05/26
Rest In Peace
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Celina, TX
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'97/'01 ST1100 ABSII
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8735
I'm sorry but this is a solution to what problem? Not being sarcastic here, just inquiring minds want to know.
Raises the bars up and back about an inch, i.e. less sport, more tourer.
 
Last edited:
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

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Joined
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Messages
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In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
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2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
I'm sorry but this is a solution to what problem? Not being sarcastic here, just inquiring minds want to know.
The reason I posted the write-up is I get a lot of requests for it via email. If you only need about an inch of 'rise' it is a very inexpensive solution for a ST1100 that allows you to keep the handlebar cover.
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2009
Messages
34
Location
Lima, NY
I saw these on line with a 1 1/8" riser, I wonder if they would work keeping the handlebar cover on?
 

jrp

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Nov 25, 2008
Messages
522
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60
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Colorado
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ST1100AW
STOC #
8991
Uncle Phil,

Did you by chance replace the original self-tapping screw with a longer one? There is no way the one on my '98 ABS/TCS is going to reach the sleeve (see attached photo).

Thanks for writing this up.

Jeff

241067
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,250
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71
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In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
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4 ST1100(s)
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002064
STOC #
698
Uncle Phil,

Did you by chance replace the original self-tapping screw with a longer one? There is no way the one on my '98 ABS/TCS is going to reach the sleeve (see attached photo).

Thanks for writing this up.

Jeff

241067
Yes, but now I don't even bother to put on in as everything tends to stay in place. BTW, I've found that a piece of plastic drain pipe of the correct diameter works just as well as a 'key hole' liner and a lot easier to deal with.
 

jrp

Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
522
Age
60
Location
Colorado
Bike
ST1100AW
STOC #
8991
Thanks for the reply Uncle Phil. I ended up epoxying the plastic sleeve in place. It's not going anywhere.

Yes, but now I don't even bother to put on in as everything tends to stay in place. BTW, I've found that a piece of plastic drain pipe of the correct diameter works just as well as a 'key hole' liner and a lot easier to deal with.
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2019
Messages
6
Location
NH
Bike
2001 st1100
Here's the setup I came up with. Mine actually still looks stock.
1. You will need to replace the 4 M8 X 35 stock bolts through the clamps with four M8 X 60's, 4 10mm nuts to use as spacers, and two ST top clamps from Honda (The 1996 and up part number should be 53131-HB6-000, the 1995 and back - 95014-22100). Lowe's Home Improvement was where I found the bolts and nuts. Remove the cover and the four bolts holding the bars. You should be able to lay them slightly out of the way without removing any lines or cables. Put a towel over your tank before you start for protection.
2. The square ignition cover over the hole just pops off (it's sticky taped). Find a closet pole (Home Depot carries them) that is 1 inch in diameter and cut a 1 inch section. Paint it SEM Graphite Gray (many auto parts carry this brand and color). This sleeve will allow you to use the stock key and keep it centered. It is tight, but with the square cover removed, there is clearance. Drill a hole that the below screw into the front strap can go into to secure it. The pole section slides over the ignition lock and looks pretty nice, since it lines up with the round edges of the ignition hole in the cover. It also fills in the gap and help secures the cover. Or you can use a 35mm film canister and just cut the bottom out of it.
3. Take the wire cable keeper at the front and rotate it and bend slightly. Cut a small strap about an inch long and bend into a u-shape around the upturned bar (it bolts back in the same holes to the front of the triple tree). Note the wire (from the front of the bike - from |______| to |````````````| ) There is a strap that clips to this wire. The replacement strap looks like |_| with a hole bored through both legs to match the original screw hole size and the new height. The screw goes through the cover, through the first leg of the strap, over the wire and into the second leg of the strap and into the sleeve -| -|-|-| <-
4. Cut two more straps from the same material about 1 1/4 long. This is for the screws at the back of the cover. Drill holes in each end of these straps big enough for the original screws to go through. Get a slip nut (like the body work uses). These slip over the cover and the screw goes through them. This allows you to bolt the top of the two straps to the two back holes in the cover.
5. Then bolt the bottom of the straps to the bottom of the triple tree where the back screws originally went. If you paint these straps with the SEM Graphite paint, it matches the ST gray perfectly.
With this set up, the only actual change to the cover is to remove the square ignition cover. It is a little tight with gloved hands, but it looks stock and works well. And unless you knew what you were looking for, you would never know the handle bars were raised. And if you wanted to change it back, you haven't destroyed anything. When you are finished, it looks like (from the side) -
(o}x)==== where ( - new top clamp, o - handlebars, } - old top clamp flipped, x - 10 mm nut for a spacer, ) - bottom clamp, ==== - forks. Hope that helps.
Here's the setup I came up with. Mine actually still looks stock.
1. You will need to replace the 4 M8 X 35 stock bolts through the clamps with four M8 X 60's, 4 10mm nuts to use as spacers, and two ST top clamps from Honda (The 1996 and up part number should be 53131-HB6-000, the 1995 and back - 95014-22100). Lowe's Home Improvement was where I found the bolts and nuts. Remove the cover and the four bolts holding the bars. You should be able to lay them slightly out of the way without removing any lines or cables. Put a towel over your tank before you start for protection.
2. The square ignition cover over the hole just pops off (it's sticky taped). Find a closet pole (Home Depot carries them) that is 1 inch in diameter and cut a 1 inch section. Paint it SEM Graphite Gray (many auto parts carry this brand and color). This sleeve will allow you to use the stock key and keep it centered. It is tight, but with the square cover removed, there is clearance. Drill a hole that the below screw into the front strap can go into to secure it. The pole section slides over the ignition lock and looks pretty nice, since it lines up with the round edges of the ignition hole in the cover. It also fills in the gap and help secures the cover. Or you can use a 35mm film canister and just cut the bottom out of it.
3. Take the wire cable keeper at the front and rotate it and bend slightly. Cut a small strap about an inch long and bend into a u-shape around the upturned bar (it bolts back in the same holes to the front of the triple tree). Note the wire (from the front of the bike - from |______| to |````````````| ) There is a strap that clips to this wire. The replacement strap looks like |_| with a hole bored through both legs to match the original screw hole size and the new height. The screw goes through the cover, through the first leg of the strap, over the wire and into the second leg of the strap and into the sleeve -| -|-|-| <-
4. Cut two more straps from the same material about 1 1/4 long. This is for the screws at the back of the cover. Drill holes in each end of these straps big enough for the original screws to go through. Get a slip nut (like the body work uses). These slip over the cover and the screw goes through them. This allows you to bolt the top of the two straps to the two back holes in the cover.
5. Then bolt the bottom of the straps to the bottom of the triple tree where the back screws originally went. If you paint these straps with the SEM Graphite paint, it matches the ST gray perfectly.
With this set up, the only actual change to the cover is to remove the square ignition cover. It is a little tight with gloved hands, but it looks stock and works well. And unless you knew what you were looking for, you would never know the handle bars were raised. And if you wanted to change it back, you haven't destroyed anything. When you are finished, it looks like (from the side) -
(o}x)==== where ( - new top clamp, o - handlebars, } - old top clamp flipped, x - 10 mm nut for a spacer, ) - bottom clamp, ==== - forks. Hope that helps.
Hello. Waiting for top clamps to arrive by mail to do the flip clip mod. Question-you mention the straps in the post. Are these made out of something else or are you reworking the existing straps? Thnx
 
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Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,250
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
Hello. Waiting for top clamps to arrive by mail to do the flip clip mod. Question-you mention the straps in the post. Are these made out of something else or are you reworking the existing straps? Thnx
I made mine out of thin sheet metal but after a few years decided that I really didn't need to do it.
Since the bottom cover is 'screwed' into the top cover on each side, it stays in place.
 

CYYJ

Michael
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None any more.
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2636
Here's a couple of pictures that illustrate the "Flip-Clip" modification:

Standard (OEM) Arrangement
Standard Handlebar Clamps.jpg

Flip-Clip Modification Embodied
Flip clip.jpg
 

Slydynbye

Will ride for Pie
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Sep 3, 2007
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Fremont, California
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2000 ABSII
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7331
Just checked pricing for new top clamps from Honda and then adding new bolts it would be more economical and probably better to do a 30mm riser kit that would include the bolts. Search 30mm 7/8" Bar riser Also done with stock bars.
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Messages
2,029
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
I got a pair of 1 inch risers on Ebay, new, for under $20 (edited 5/13/2021, not $10...fumblefingers). Used the upper cap and longer bolts from that set to use in the flip clip mod. OR....you could just use the entire riser assembly.
 
Last edited:

CYYJ

Michael
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
2,399
Age
69
Location
Toronto & Zürich
Bike
None any more.
STOC #
2636
...it would be more economical and probably better to do a 30mm riser kit that would include the bolts.
If economics are a concern, it might be wise to first check and see if you will need to change any hydraulic lines (clutch, front brake) or engine control cables (throttle, choke) when you implement a 30mm rise. I do know that no changes to these OEM components are needed with the "flip-clip" mod.

Michael
 

Slydynbye

Will ride for Pie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
1,596
Location
Fremont, California
Bike
2000 ABSII
STOC #
7331
If economics are a concern, it might be wise to first check and see if you will need to change any hydraulic lines (clutch, front brake) or engine control cables (throttle, choke) when you implement a 30mm rise. I do know that no changes to these OEM components are needed with the "flip-clip" mod.

Michael
Yes, everything reaches with little re-arrangement I had no trouble.
 
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