Maybe you are opening the bleeder valve too far, causing air to suck past the threads. It only needs to be cracked a quarter turn.If anyone has pointers I willing to give it a try on my next bleed.
Maybe you are opening the bleeder valve too far, causing air to suck past the threads. It only needs to be cracked a quarter turn.If anyone has pointers I willing to give it a try on my next bleed.
Are you trying to use the clear tubing that came with the MP tool? If so, stop doing that. Purchase some clear 3/16-5/16 tubing from the hardware store. The stuff that comes with the tool is too soft and will not give you a tight seal.I use the same one.
Although I have had issues with air between the bleeder and the check valve, just can't seem to get that to stay full of fluid at times. I have to assume its the bleeder threads leaking in some air and yes I have tried putting the Teflon tape on the threads.
I end up using the open/close bleeder and as stated the reach is a problem at times.
If anyone has pointers I willing to give it a try on my next bleed.
I don't open it past a 1/4... well, maybe a little now that I'm thinking about it. I'll keep an eye on it.Maybe you are opening the bleeder valve too far, causing air to suck past the threads. It only needs to be cracked a quarter turn.
I did replace the tubing with 1/4" stuff that is a bear to get on the check valve, I'm not sure if I changed the larger one going to the bleeder. I will get new tubing before my next bleed and give er a go.Are you trying to use the clear tubing that came with the MP tool? If so, stop doing that. Purchase some clear 3/16-5/16 tubing from the hardware store. The stuff that comes with the tool is too soft and will not give you a tight seal.
They use that stuff simply for packaging ease. Also, every couple times you push it on a bleeder, you should trim about 1/8 of an inch off, to keep it sealing tightly. I see several folks recommending turning the bleeder 1/4 turn etc.
Try and open the bleeder SLOWLY and only enough so the fluid starts to move smoothly. It also helps when using the tool to make sure the line (and tool) are pointing straight up until the fluid passes through the tool, this way air won't be rolling around in the line as you pump etc.
Yes, to speed up flushing and bleeding the PCV circuit you can pump the rear pedal, also doing the long SMC circuit you can pump the pedal. I've never found it necessary to pump the SMC by itself though some do it. If you suck the old fluid out of the reservoir first and refill with fresh fluid then pump 1.5 to 2 reservoirs through each circuit you will use two 12 oz containers of brake fluid. I usually have 3 bottles on hand when doing a flush and bleed. The 3rd only if you need some extra.When doing the PCV bleeder do you just pump the rear pedal? How about the SMC, the pedal and pump the SMC actuator? Also if replacing all the fluid and bleeding how much fluid will it take?
:call:I pumped the SMC just because I could!
The PVC using the rear brake pedal was very easy.
The whole job was pretty easy even without removing the big starboard side fairing. There is enough written on it here to become intimately familiar with it before even opening the garage. Very helpful indeed. And if all else fails, there is always the white courtesy phone!
You're done already but probably realized you could have done just the rear (or just the front) if you wanted to. But doing both is the way to roll unless you're short of time and will do the other half soon.Can I bleed the rear only via the pedal or is there a specific method/path to follow?