Brake bleed/flush without vacuum?

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I use the same one.

Although I have had issues with air between the bleeder and the check valve, just can't seem to get that to stay full of fluid at times. I have to assume its the bleeder threads leaking in some air and yes I have tried putting the Teflon tape on the threads.

I end up using the open/close bleeder and as stated the reach is a problem at times.

If anyone has pointers I willing to give it a try on my next bleed.
Are you trying to use the clear tubing that came with the MP tool? If so, stop doing that. Purchase some clear 3/16-5/16 tubing from the hardware store. The stuff that comes with the tool is too soft and will not give you a tight seal.
They use that stuff simply for packaging ease. Also, every couple times you push it on a bleeder, you should trim about 1/8 of an inch off, to keep it sealing tightly. I see several folks recommending turning the bleeder 1/4 turn etc.
Try and open the bleeder SLOWLY and only enough so the fluid starts to move smoothly. It also helps when using the tool to make sure the line (and tool) are pointing straight up until the fluid passes through the tool, this way air won't be rolling around in the line as you pump etc.
 
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Maybe you are opening the bleeder valve too far, causing air to suck past the threads. It only needs to be cracked a quarter turn.
I don't open it past a 1/4... well, maybe a little now that I'm thinking about it. I'll keep an eye on it.

Thanks for the pointer.


Are you trying to use the clear tubing that came with the MP tool? If so, stop doing that. Purchase some clear 3/16-5/16 tubing from the hardware store. The stuff that comes with the tool is too soft and will not give you a tight seal.
They use that stuff simply for packaging ease. Also, every couple times you push it on a bleeder, you should trim about 1/8 of an inch off, to keep it sealing tightly. I see several folks recommending turning the bleeder 1/4 turn etc.
Try and open the bleeder SLOWLY and only enough so the fluid starts to move smoothly. It also helps when using the tool to make sure the line (and tool) are pointing straight up until the fluid passes through the tool, this way air won't be rolling around in the line as you pump etc.
I did replace the tubing with 1/4" stuff that is a bear to get on the check valve, I'm not sure if I changed the larger one going to the bleeder. I will get new tubing before my next bleed and give er a go.

I will also only open the bleeder as you indicated and will keep the line and check valve straight up, which I know I haven't done before. It makes sense, not sure why I didn't think to keep it pointing up.

Thank you for the pointers.
 

dduelin

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When doing the PCV bleeder do you just pump the rear pedal? How about the SMC, the pedal and pump the SMC actuator? Also if replacing all the fluid and bleeding how much fluid will it take?
Yes, to speed up flushing and bleeding the PCV circuit you can pump the rear pedal, also doing the long SMC circuit you can pump the pedal. I've never found it necessary to pump the SMC by itself though some do it. If you suck the old fluid out of the reservoir first and refill with fresh fluid then pump 1.5 to 2 reservoirs through each circuit you will use two 12 oz containers of brake fluid. I usually have 3 bottles on hand when doing a flush and bleed. The 3rd only if you need some extra.
 
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The correct way to flush/bleed the PVC is by using the foot lever.
No need to pump the SMC piston, however, sometimes it helps to move the caliper around and tap the lines throughout the bleed procedure.
See John Heaths write up on brake bleeding.
 
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JimGregory
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I pumped the SMC just because I could!
The PVC using the rear brake pedal was very easy.
The whole job was pretty easy even without removing the big starboard side fairing. There is enough written on it here to become intimately familiar with it before even opening the garage. Very helpful indeed. And if all else fails, there is always the white courtesy phone!
 
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I pumped the SMC just because I could!
The PVC using the rear brake pedal was very easy.
The whole job was pretty easy even without removing the big starboard side fairing. There is enough written on it here to become intimately familiar with it before even opening the garage. Very helpful indeed. And if all else fails, there is always the white courtesy phone!
:call: :plus1::usflag1::run1::wave1:
 

flip-flop

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old thread, I know!
Just got my 2006 non-ABS and the rear pedal is soft on the first press, then firms up.

Can I bleed the rear only via the pedal or is there a specific method/path to follow?

I don't have my service manual yet, and want to get it road worthy-- I'll do a complete flush of the brakes and clutch at a later date.

Also can anyone tell me the correct sizes (and quantity) for speedbleeders for brakes/clutch?

I am sure this is the first of many questions to the tech forums, so please accept my early thanks for your help!

The depth of knowledge of this forum is one of my reasons for coming back to the ST!!!
 

flip-flop

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did a complete flush. the fluid from the right front was milky with air. pedal and grip firm now. Also did clutch-- really nasty and lots of mud in the clutch reservoir. Followed the pictorial that a member created--took me a bit as some of the tupperware pics were out of order but the bleeding steps were a lifesaver!!! I used a motionpro in-line check valve and it enabled me to do the job by myself with some creative fluid bottle balancing!

To the member who created that pictorial, THANK YOU!
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Can I bleed the rear only via the pedal or is there a specific method/path to follow?
You're done already but probably realized you could have done just the rear (or just the front) if you wanted to. But doing both is the way to roll unless you're short of time and will do the other half soon.

I found that even though my front brakes felt good from the showroom floor Igofar got a lot of air out of them (and the rear brake) noticeably improving on what I thought were 'good brakes'.

Spending money accessorizing is fun but if you already have a Motion-Pro for the brakes speed bleeders seem unnecessary. But they are kinda trick.
 
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IMHO I've had/seen speed bleeders (brand) fail, and I'll point out that you would have to purchase (7) of them, which would be pretty costly, compared to your (1) motion pro tool :rolleyes:
You also don't have to leave your MP tool on the bike when you sell it, and removing/finding your old bleeders is a pain in the :butt1:
As far as doing just the front, or just the rear, I'll go out on a limb here and say that you should only bleed the brakes by doing the complete routine, in the proper sequence, if you want to get all the air out.
Oh, and thanks for the kind words Randy.
 

flip-flop

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yea, I agree-- no need for speedbleeders with this tool. It made a nasty job so much easier!!!
For the record, I still hate brake work with the heat of a thousand suns!

Even so, it felt good to go on my first ride in over a year and have those things working perfectly!
 
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