Changing Brake Fluid

Joined
Oct 25, 2014
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2007 Honda ST1300
It seems to be agreed that it is a good idea to periodically remove and replace the brake and clutch fluid. But this is not a simple task for the ordinary ST1300 rider and it is not inexpensive to have it done by a Honda Dealer. I am wondering if the result could be achieved in an easier and more simple way. Would it work to use a vacuum device to suck the fluid out of the reservoir such that you do not uncover the port to the piston, fill the reservoir with new fluid, ride for a day or so, and then repeat the process several more times. Would the new fluid that you added to the reservoir get to the brake piston in a reasonable amount of time? If the fluid does indeed circulate in the system then changing the fluid over time using this method should do the job. Could the same procedure work for changing the coolant?
 

dduelin

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The practice of changing only the fluid in the reservoirs doesn't work because the fluid doesn't circulate. The circuits are like dead end streets. By opening the bleeder at the "dead end" you push or pull the old fluid out of the circuit.
 
Last edited:
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Grand Rapids, Mn
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Yes, and since brake fluid tends to adsorb water, you really want to remove any old fluid not just "mix" it with new which would only dilute the contaminated fluid.
Coolant "types" shouldn't be mixed, so use the same type unless you completely flush the system. Otherwise, drain the majority of it and refill.
 
Joined
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Bleeding the brake system on an ST is not really a big deal. Yes there is a detailed procedure, and I personally think it is a bit of a pita to pull the appropriate tupperware, but if you can read and follow instructions, and bleed one caliper on a car, then the procedure for the ST is not intimidating. Plan on a couple of hours if you pull the tupperware. A vacuum bleed device is not mandatory but it makes the process go faster (especially if you have used it before). Get a quart of new brake fluid (Dot 4) and have at it.

Btw, the book says to do it every two years. And pulling the plastic gives you a look at the bike and you might spot incipient problems. Pick up a shop manual if you don't have one (ebay is best).

If, after reading the procedure elsewhere on this site and in the manual, you are hesitant, PM Larry (Igofar) - he will talk you through the procedure on the phone.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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Its no more of an issue to suck new fluid through the system than it is to take old fluid out and put new fluid in. But that doesn't solve the problem. Old, contaminated fluid will stay exactly where it is - trapped in dead end streets (using dduelin's analogy) - forever, unless you do something to get rid of it. Some such places are in the calliper bores - the outer bore which is furthest away from the bleed valve - and in the master cylinders in between the two seals - particularly the secondary master cylinder.

Having this in mind when replacing fluid can help you to work out ways to flush it all out. Exercising the pistons and the master cylinders helps - but it needs to be more than just moving the fluid out and then pulling it back in again !

The problem with old contaminated fluid is that it will contain water. Water corrodes and will cause things to stick.

I have a couple of documents that you may wish to look at. They don't describe bleeding as such, but they may give some pointers to how the fluid flows and how to avoid the common 'pitfalls'.

ST1300 Brakes - Avoiding the Pitfalls
ST1300 - Getting air out of the system - but applies similarly to getting fluid through the system.

2 years between changes is a maximum. I never leave mine more than a year. It's wet in the Yorkshire Pennines.
 
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The proper procedure is all over the brake forum. Change it properly with fresh DOT 4 every two years and ride the thing.
 

Trapperdog

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When I purchased my used 1300P from DFW Honda in Texas they stated all the fluids including brake were changed. Once home in CA Igofar, Larry, and myself bled the brakes. The brake master fluid was clear with a little sediment at the bottom but when bleeding, much of the fluid came out a thick snot yellow with a tremendous amount of air. Obviously just the master fluid was changed.
So yes, do it correctly.
 
OP
OP
Thunderchief
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Oct 25, 2014
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2007 Honda ST1300
I need someone here like Larry (Igofar) to walk me through this the first time. I see many entries on this site where a lot of bike problems started with a guy doing his own maintenance. This is a very sophisticated machine and I am not ready to learn to do something like bleeding my brakes without some kind of technical help.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
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Location
Cleveland
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2010 ST1300
I need someone here like Larry (Igofar) to walk me through this the first time. I see many entries on this site where a lot of bike problems started with a guy doing his own maintenance. This is a very sophisticated machine and I am not ready to learn to do something like bleeding my brakes without some kind of technical help.
If you want help, go to the top of this page, click on Community, then Member Map. Zoom in to see who lives near you and also check out the RAN list. PM guys who live near you, or call people on the RAN list and ask if they will assist you. Worst case is you might get a 'no', but I doubt it.
 
Joined
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Arizona
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2007 Honda ST1300A
I need someone here like Larry (Igofar) to walk me through this the first time. I see many entries on this site where a lot of bike problems started with a guy doing his own maintenance. This is a very sophisticated machine and I am not ready to learn to do something like bleeding my brakes without some kind of technical help.
I'm your huckleberry :rolleyes:
PM or Email me a contact phone number and I'll call you on the white courtesy :call: and we'll chat for a while.
Igofar
 
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