I Got A Ghost Riding Shotgun

Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
16
Location
SoCal
Bike
ST 1300
Has this happened to anyone else? :confused: I'm going to describe it as best I can.
Twice in the last two days as I was coming off the freeway I was downshifting and braking. As I slowed it felt as if something was holding the motorcycle back. It felt like all of a sudden I was towing a trailer. The bike was just really slowing down. Even with the clutch pulled in the bike did not want to coast.
The engine was running fine so I don't think that was the issue.
Then after about 20-30 feet is feels as if something releases and the bike cruises fine. It really seems something is holding the bike and then lets go!
My guess it may be a sticking caliper. Has anyone else experienced something like this, and if so what was the problem?
Thanks for the help.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,178
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
Next time this happens, you can slow to stop w/o the brakes, get off and check the rotor's temp - (infrared thermometer or) CAREFULLY feel near and then the rotor to see if it is hot.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
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4,776
Location
Northumberland UK
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VStrom 650
+1 Khris. Sounds like the SMC needs service. I would check sooner rather than later, you don't want to be stranded.
Upt'North.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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Mar 18, 2006
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Age
69
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Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
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2013 ST1300 A9
2024 Miles
000679
STOC #
2570
It could well be the SMC which is not releasing the rear brake as it should (If the SMC fails to return to its proper position, the pressure in the rear calliper outer pistons cannot escape through the compensation port in the SMC). It is certainly a candidate.

But it could be something to do with the rear calliper itself. The pad pins could be corroded, preventing the pads from moving apart after the brakes have been applied and then released. The pistons may be having difficulty returning. The brake pads themselves may not be seated properly at the opposite end to the pad pins, or the silver retaining clip is clogged up with muck. The rear pads have a little notch at that end, and they match a small ridge in the retaining plate. Check that the correct pads are in there.

The pad spring can be inserted the wrong way round - there is a narrow strip and a wider strip on the 'H' shaped pad spring. The wider strip of the spring is for the pad that is next to the pistons. This is the pad that moves across as the pads wear down. The narrow spring has two tiny tags which are there to prevent the inside pad from moving towards the pistons - the inside pad stays put, and it is the calliper that moves across. If the pad spring is the wrong way round; if the little tags have been bent over; if the pads are on the wrong side of those little tags; if the two calliper slider pins are not clean and lightly greased; if the slider pins have too much silicon grease - then any of those things can prevent the calliper from moving back after the brakes have been released - resulting in brake drag.

If it is the pad spring that is the wrong way round so that the narrow strip is pressing onto the pad nearest the pistons, there is a period of time when it won't make much difference. Then as the pads wear down, the pad which is nearest the pistons will move further than the edge of the narrow side of the pad spring. The spring will spring down behind the pad and it prevent it from being released. The pad fits perfectly the wrong way round - it is a very easy mistake to make. On the ST1300A9, the modified front callipers have a redesigned calliper and the pad spring cannot be turned round. But the rear brake is as it always was.

While you are checking things over, just take a look at the rear calliper bracket stopper bolt - to make sure that it is located through the hole in the calliper bracket.

If you would like to see diagrams of all of this - then check out Brakes - Avoiding the Pitfalls.

My guess is that if you take the pads out, release the calliper bracket from the axle, clean everything up, check that the pistons can be pushed in a little under thumb pressure (the outer ones can be see-sawed, the centre one requires more effort, but it should still move*) and reassemble it properly, then the problem will go away.

Unless it is the SMC that is the issue - but doing the above is probably an essential first step - and cheaper.

* nb Some sensibly say that you should open the bleed valve to test this, otherwise you may be pushing dirty fluid into the brake lines. I never let my fluid get that old.
 

Igofar

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2023 Honda CT125A
You could always trailer it up to San Jose and let me whisper it!
:plus1: on the SMC failing.
Be very careful while attempting to ride it in this condition, as they can lock up without warning and you won't be able to move the bike (off hwy)!
As John pointed out, there could be several different things, or a combination of some or all of them causing your issues.
PM me if you'd like to discuss it over the white courtesy :call:
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2017
Messages
8
Location
Colorado Springs
Had this exact issue yesterday. Only had the ST a few days and I'm like ***?!? I got it into a parking lot, shut it off, messed with the foot pedal and got back on and went my merry way. I'll check out the brakes later today. Thanks to jfheath for the link to the brake info.
Pat
 

Tom Mac 04a

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Joined
Jun 24, 2008
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LI , New York
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04 ST1300a
STOC #
8347
I'd start with a cleaning of rear brake assmbly and a good bleed of system... The SMC does come up now and then an bite you if it gets crudded up and or not bleed correctly by tilting
 
OP
OP
ASDstar
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
16
Location
SoCal
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ST 1300
Thanks everyone for their input. I've grounded the bike until my next days off so I can take a look at the brakes. I'll post an update.
 
OP
OP
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Joined
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Messages
16
Location
SoCal
Bike
ST 1300
**UPDATE**
Thanks to Igofar for the calls and helping out with some details. Also to jfheath for his articles which I have read over and over again.
I Rebuilt the SMC by replacing the SMC piston. I did not replace the SMC bracket (and beginning to think I should have). I initially was going to leave it at that but then decided to remove the rear caliper and give it a good cleaning. That is when I found one of the tabs on the upper spring pad had broken off. Ordered the part and put everything back together. Then bled the system three times.
After a test ride; the front brakes lever/brakes work great. My rear brake pedal however is spongy. In order to get the bike the stop using rear brake only I have to use a lot of foot pressure and all of the pedal travel. If use front brake and rear brake then I have a solid rear pedal, but as soon as I release the front brake lever the pedal becomes spongy again.
My thinking is that I have still air in the system. Maybe at the SMC? Or, as has been posted before, has the SMC bore become out of round?
As I wrote in my first post, the bike has 213K miles. Also the SMC piston had a little bit of corrosion but nothing as bad as some of the pics Igofar showed me.
Thanks for the help again.
 

Igofar

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Yep, the broken tab on the upper spring pad is pretty common, and I find them like that often enough that I stock several spring clips in my ST-specific-tool box.
Yep, you still have air in the system. Give me a call tomorrow and I'll see If I can help you get that air out of the system.
Igofar
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
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British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
Be very careful while attempting to ride it in this condition, as they can lock up without warning
Wait a minute . . . . you saying that Honda would build a component that, in its failure, could lock up the rear wheel and possibly kill you??
 

Igofar

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Arizona
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2023 Honda CT125A
Wait a minute . . . . you saying that Honda would build a component that, in its failure, could lock up the rear wheel and possibly kill you??
I don't care what you say, that there was funny :rofl1:
You almost made me spit my iced tea on the keyboard.
 
OP
OP
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Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
16
Location
SoCal
Bike
ST 1300
***UPDATE***

Finished bleeding the system for a fourth time. This time I spent a conscience effort to activating the SMC on those steps were the SMC is tilted. I also kept the front brake lever and the rear pedal depressed for over 24 hours allowing any remaining air bubbles move their way to the reservoirs.
Brakes are working like a dream. No evidence that the rear is binding, and the bike stops great.
Again thanks to everyone who helped, particularly Igofar.
 

Igofar

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Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
7,101
Location
Arizona
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2023 Honda CT125A
Glad to hear you finally got all the air out! :hat1:
Now, your bike should be running well enough to ride it up north and visit me so I can whisper to it :rofl1:
Ride safe and enjoy your bike now.
Igofar
 
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