Stripped oil pan

For want of a crush washer....
2nd time doing my own oil, I forgot to order a crush washer, as I forgot the washer wasn't reusable.
Tighten, test run, see drip of oil, so I tighten more.
Hmm, now the oil plug bolt keeps turning, and quite a pool of oil in my garage overnight.
Off to order parts, this is going to cost a bit, as I'm not set up to do this work on my own.
At least my plugs and air filter change now make the bike purr.
At least, my search here shows I'm not the only one.
Misery loves company.

I did the same thing on my Kawasaki Vulcan. I found at my local auto parts store a drain bolt that cuts new threads and fixes the problem' without having to gett a shop to tap new threads into the oil pan. Worked for me for many years without further trouble, and although I can't remember the exact cost am pretty sure it was less than $15.

I've been reading these forums regarding this issue, and cannot determine if the low cost way to fix this would be 1) a self tapping bolt, or 2) drill, tap, insert new bolt.
I could do 1, but not 2.

also, thank dog this forum exists, as information regarding the ST100 is getting more scarce by the year, ie., dead links, parts disappearing, etc.

I have never replaced the crush washer on any bike I've had, never had a leak, same with brake banjo washers, reuse and crack on

Lucky you?
It didn't take much force for me to get into this mess.

Take a look at the Time Sert web page. Could be the way out of the mire. Video demo on there.
For what it's worth I'm a new washer type of guy.
Hope it helps,
Upt'North.

Thx for the replies, I've decided that since I'm planning on having this bike for a long time, I'd rather do the fix right, and will bite the bullet, and get a new pan/gasket.

I've never replaced a crush washer for a drain plug.

Just flip and reuse and I've never had a leak. When I modded my 750-4 to dual front reversed caliper brakes I used all new washers as that was the thing to do. I don't know if it was necessary but it was cheap insurance. Regardless I'd sooner reuse one than go without.

EUS said:

will bite the bullet, and get a new pan/gasket.

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Seems to me if you can remove the pan you could get it repaired. A friend changed the oil in my GL1000 and cranked the drain plug waaaaay too tight with the predictable results for the next change. I dropped the 'pan' and had it heli-coiled and never a drop leaked. Of course once you have the pan off replacement cost probably isn't a BIG deal.

A new pan looks like $215 list, $160-ish Internet. Probably more in Canada. Isn't the drain plug hole easy enough access that re-tapping the threads would be an easy fix? Even if he can't do it himself it couldn't cost much for someone else to do it.

Like others here, I've been using the same crush washer for 20 years and no leaks. I suspect the drain plug threads were somehow compromised by a PO or something, it wasn't the fault of the re-used crush washer.

dwalby said:

A new pan looks like $215 list, $160-ish Internet. Probably more in Canada. Isn't the drain plug hole easy enough access that re-tapping the threads would be an easy fix? Even if he can't do it himself it couldn't cost much for someone else to do it.

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Yikes! For that money I'd definitely get the original pan repaired! These days I'd go for re-tapping over HC.

dwalby said:

it wasn't the fault of the re-used crush washer.

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I'm not sure but the way I read it is that he thought it not reusable so skipped it entirely. Using the drain plug with no washer and after leaking he tried tightening it further until Spin City.

I stripped an oil plug on an 86 Nighthawk and spent a ton trying the re-tapping and helicoils. I even had a welder reset the pan, which warped it. Bike was down for a couple months. At my wits end I finally found a pan at a salvage yard that I bought for $32. Should have done that at the start. I too flip and reuse my crush washers. The day I strip my plug on the ST, I WILL buy a new pan and gasket. If you are not familiar with helicoils or tapping, time is money.
Best of Luck

HELI COIL simple to install and is stronger than original threads just be sure the pan did not crack. It would show up directly on the bottom perpendicular to the threads. Very fine line.

Al st1100 said:

HELI COIL simple to install and is stronger than original threads just be sure the pan did not crack. It would show up directly on the bottom perpendicular to the threads. Very fine line.

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^^ This, exactly- years ago on the 2000 ST, I had the same issue- the shop did a Helicoil repair for $80 I believe- worth every cent as the pan is expensive and you apparently have to take off the exhaust to get the pan in/ out- the Helicoil is easy to do with the pan in place on the bike (and easy for a shop to do if you don't feel qualified), is relatively cheap, and is permanent. I learned to only use a box wrench to tighten the plug (to avoid excess torque on same). The cheap cutter plugs could work I guess, but it's not the best way to fix this issue.

There are a number of them on eBay at this time...

I have heard about heli-coil over many years and they sound like a saviour in certain situations.

However where used in the assembled engine or gearbox, what happens to the material removed (metal particles) during the cutting process, particularly spark plugs where the particles would drop into the cylinder I expect. Pondered that prospect often!! I guess with the gearbox drain plug gravity may protect it from particle entry, or a finger wipe.

D

Duporth said:

However where used in the assembled engine or gearbox, what happens to the material removed (metal particles) during the cutting process, particularly spark plugs where the particles would drop into the cylinder I expect. Pondered that prospect often!!

D

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Interesting question, I'm wondering too, having never had to do it. One possibility would be to feed a small hose down into the cylinder through the finished spark plug hole to attempt to vacuum away any shavings that fell in during the process. Also, they're small so they might just blow out the exhaust port after the engine cycles a few rotations. And they're aluminum, so I don't think they're going to be able to score the steel cylinder walls. I'm guessing the rings would keep them away from the cylinder wall and they'd eventually exit with the exhaust gas, if the combustion heat doesn't just burn them away.

all pure guessing, anybody know??

dwalby said:

Interesting question, I'm wondering too, having never had to do it. One possibility would be to feed a small hose down into the cylinder through the finished spark plug hole to attempt to vacuum away any shavings that fell in during the process. Also, they're small so they might just blow out the exhaust port after the engine cycles a few rotations. And they're aluminum, so I don't think they're going to be able to score the steel cylinder walls. I'm guessing the rings would keep them away from the cylinder wall and they'd eventually exit with the exhaust gas, if the combustion heat doesn't just burn them away.

all pure guessing, anybody know??

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I have done this (seems like hundred times) Ford truck engines blow out spark plugs rather frequently. Blow out what you can, start it up with the plug out for a few seconds . Put the plug in and go. With oil pan put grease on the tap and it will collect a lot of the shavings, dump some clean oil in and flush out what will come out. Put a little bit of Locktite on the helicoil, torque to spec. If your not sure how tight, dial torque wrenches are dirt cheap. Never had an issue with shavings, they will blow out the exhaust, get caught in the pick up screen or stopped at the oil filter. I saw a 1/4 in. nut dropped down an intake on an old six cylinder. Knocked a bit but it blew out the exhaust. I would not do that at home with the newer engines. Carbon can do more damage.

+ 1 on the grease on the tap. I've read that this is the proper procedure to use w/ frequent wiping and reapp of grease.

I stripped the drain plug on my old FJ1200, due to pilot error with a new to me torque wrench...

Had a shop tap it larger, but it had a tendency to drip after that. I saw a new pan was only $70 or so (1990), and sprung for a new one. If I'd researched the prices first I would have gone straight to a new pan.

ST_Jim said:

I stripped the drain plug on my old FJ1200, due to pilot error with a new to me torque wrench...

Had a shop tap it larger, but it had a tendency to drip after that. I saw a new pan was only $70 or so (1990), and sprung for a new one. If I'd researched the prices first I would have gone straight to a new pan.

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It probably had a hair line crack that can be seen with the naked eye, it really should not behard to see. As the plug turns it can expand the hole before jumping over and stripping the threads, if done properly and not on an angle there is no reason it should leak. Heli coil kit about 20 bucks