Stripped oil pan

Take a look at the for sale area. One of the folks is parting out an 1100. Might be worth a quick PM to see if he would sell you the old pan.

Re a new Pan, Plug, washers etc, try CMS in the NL, about 150 euros for brand spanking new. I know this will hurt, I'm sorry, 12 washers for a dollar! Sorry.
Hope it helps.
Upt'North.

ST Gui said:

I'm not sure but the way I read it is that he thought it not reusable so skipped it entirely. Using the drain plug with no washer and after leaking he tried tightening it further until Spin City.

Click to expand...

My bet is there is a well oiled washer in the drain pan ........

Tom

I've never had a problem with leaking drain washers, but this time I put a thin film of Permatex #2 non-hardening gasket sealant on the old washer for insurance.

I also never replace the washers, it is just a hard gasket. The manufactures tell you it should be replaced every time, because they want to sell you one every time. I am a professional mechanic for a company with a large truck fleet, and have had trucks run a million miles without ever changing the washer on the oil drain plug. The key is properly tourqing the bolt, over or under tightening is what causes problems.

Al st1100 said:

Heli coil kit about 20 bucks

Click to expand...

At the time having the local dealer Heli Coil the pan cost me $40. Fortunately for me it was a Saturday afternoon and the Honda shop was still open. It only took a few minutes for them help me out.

ST_Jim said:

I stripped the drain plug on my old FJ1200, due to pilot error with a new to me torque wrench...

Click to expand...

I bet we could fill an entire new thread with that topic, "I used a torque wrench, but...."

my only experience with helicoils also involved a "new to me" torque wrench, and a questionable torque spec (maybe it was in N-m and I thought it was ft-lb, or maybe it was just off, dunno for sure)

edit: did a search on KZ1000 torque values and immediately hit a thread about Kawi publishing the wrong torque value for the cam bearing caps in the factory service manual. 12 ft-lb clearly listed in factory service manual, correct value is 12 N-m, several other people had the same helicoil experience I did thanks to the Kawi misprint. Back in the day that was my first cam pulling exercise, so didn't know better, today I realize 6mm standard thread into an aluminum head should be in the range of 8.5-9 ft-lb so I know better now.

ST Gui said:

At the time having the local dealer Heli Coil the pan cost me $40. Fortunately for me it was a Saturday afternoon and the Honda shop was still open. It only took a few minutes for them help me out.

Click to expand...

good deal

Upt' North said:

Take a look at the Time Sert web page. Could be the way out of the mire. Video demo on there.
For what it's worth I'm a new washer type of guy.
Hope it helps,
Upt'North.

Click to expand...

+1 Stripped a filter bolt on the wife's can am using the recommended torque, huh. Had a Time-Sert put in and haven't regretted it. A Time-Sert is more easily replaceable. The coil-style insert is less easily replaced.

Re-tapping the damaged threads will result with less strength to the material.

Oops, saw where you put in a Heli-coil. Should work fine.

So many new replies! Appreciate them!
I've sourced the parts including pan, gasket, and exhaust header gaskets, which are all coming form the States.
I almost pulled the trigger on a used pan from a scrapyard, but there was no way for me to tell if it was also stripped or not.
For right now, I'm using the bike sparingly, leaving little puddles behind, and carrying spare oil.
To clarify, the original problem occurred when I had forgot that the washer was not reusable, tried to re-use it, and over-tightened the bolt. However, it really didn't take much force to over-tighten, I'm not the Hulk.

dwalby said:

A new pan looks like $215 list, $160-ish Internet. Probably more in Canada. Isn't the drain plug hole easy enough access that re-tapping the threads would be an easy fix? Even if he can't do it himself it couldn't cost much for someone else to do it.

Like others here, I've been using the same crush washer for 20 years and no leaks. I suspect the drain plug threads were somehow compromised by a PO or something, it wasn't the fault of the re-used crush washer.

Click to expand...

Get a replacement self-tapping fix-it plug. After installing, remove it and pour in a few quarts of cheap oil to flush out any chips created when re-tapping.

And BTW, I usually add a few wraps of teflon tape to the drain plug threads ( near the bottom of the threads, not the end of the threads ). No leaks using old crush washer.