Should I stick to 96 and later because of the alternator?

Joined
Aug 13, 2017
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5
Location
Burnsville,NC
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2004 KLR650
STOC #
8965
So looking hard at a couple of pre-96 ST1100s, but reading about the 28amp alternator gots me nervous Probably a loaded question but should I restrict the search to 96 and newer cuz of the 40amp alternator?
Some real good deals on early 90s and money always be an issue here at PoBoys acres What say ye gents/ladies?
Thanks
Byron
waiting on a STOC #!
 
Joined
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Location
finger lakes ny
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1999 ST1100
STOC #
7959
Probably a good choice. My 91 is waiting for the 40 amper that's been sitting here and my 99 is just fine.
 

paulcb

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Celina, TX
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'97/'01 ST1100 ABSII
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8735
I would not only go with a 96 or later, I'd get a ABSII model if you could find one. The brakes (not the ABS part) are much better on the ABSII models.
This! You'll be much happier in the long run.
 
Joined
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Fort Worth, Texas
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
Love my 1991. Just turned 20,000 miles and I finished an early go-through since we had a week and a half of rainy weather. My 28 amp alternator is working fine, not leaking from either seal or the wire passage. No arcing or overtemp evident anywhere in the power circuits. Not being much of a farkly sort, I will replace it with another 28 amp alternator I keep as a spare.
That's just me.
If I wanted/needed heated gear, USB power outlets for a phone or gps, auxiliary lights, etc., I would upgrade to a 40 amp unit. They are still available new, 28 amp units are not.
 

kiltman

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8826
Yes there are good deals on pre 96 and you may find one with the conversion already done. If it has been converted you can do OK. At some point the 28 amp units will need to be upgraded, there was a fellow who had a connection for a new 40 amp alternator for $250 which is a very good price. I would budget $500-$1000 to do the conversion and at least a weekend do do it.
I went the other route and found a 97 with ABS/Trac. for $1150. My buddy got my 1990 (I gave it too him because the alternator went and I wouldn't get much cash for it) He invested the time and money to do the 40amp conversion and he has an excellent bike to ride.

I do like the ABS II model as it has better brakes as mentioned previously, it also has bigger diameter forks and a wider front wheel.

All the best on your search
 
Joined
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Sayre, PA
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'04 ST1300
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8460
Love my 1991. Just turned 20,000 miles
If I wanted/needed heated gear, USB power outlets for a phone or gps, auxiliary lights, etc., I would upgrade to a 40 amp unit. They are still available new, 28 amp units are not.
My '91 is pushing 90,000 miles and still has the original 28 amp. Only power modifications have been a GPS cradle and a cigarette socket for occasional device charging or emergency air compressor
 
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Northumberland UK
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Firstly find the best bike you can afford, no point buying a rough 96 and pass on a great 91.
Try and buy from this site if you can and from a true enthusiast.
If you want ABS then you'll obviously have to buy an ABS model. When the ABS goes wrong it will cost you but the 1100 seems more reliable in this respect to the 1300.
If you are not bothered about farkling then I wouldn't totally discount an earlier bike but Oldbikefixr seems to have the best idea, keep a good 28 amp alternator on the shelf just in case.
Everybody will have different opinions about ABS, farkling, post 96 only etc.
One thing to keep in mind above all others is these are old bikes, do not buy a neglected bike and avoid standard exhaust systems and check the swingarm is solid. These two items will set you back £1000.00 to sort.
Hope it helps and take your time to find the right one.
Upt'North.
 
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There are a couple of ST1100 on Memphis Craigslist. One is low miles at 13K, not sure about the other. 1998 and a 2001. Black and wine color.
 
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soCal
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687
I'm going to throw in my 2 cents, to amplify UP's earlier comment about the braking differences. When I transitioned from my FZR1000 to a ST1100 in 1997, I first test rode a '96 with ABS. I was amazed at how strong the brakes were on that bike. edit: I was used to doing 'stoppies' on my FZR, so I'd claim to be familiar with rapid deceleration as opposed to the usual touring bike brakes. But, it had the dreaded headshake, so I passed on it and bought a two-month old non-ABS '97 with 1,000 miles instead. Not that I regret the purchase, but coming from a sportbike the stopping ability of that ABS bike surprised me for such a heavy bike. In retrospect knowing that I could cure the headshake with a simple steering stem bearing replacement, if I could go back in time and do it all over again, I would go with the ABS model instead.
 
Last edited:

Ron

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The '98 has a Givi, Heli Bars, after market windshield and a Corbin seat (if you think that's a Postive). I would offer $3000 due to scratches.
 
Joined
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Grand Haven MI
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2004 ST1300
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8800
My 91 was KIA with 93,000 miles & still running the 28 amp unit. The only power option was heated grips.
The entire bike was a joy until a cager took it out. Unless you plan on hanging a bunch of electrical options don't
turn nose up at the early bikes.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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+1 on the ABS model. The brakes are far superior. But if so - check that the ABS works. The ABS light should come on with ignition and should go out after rolling a few yards. If the light doesn't come on in the first place, walk away - the bulb is sometimes removed to hide the problem.

I seem to remember that the later models had a modified swinging arm with additional strengthening spar, and at the time that I had my 1100s, my 96 model non ABS would not take radial tyres. That may have changed with tyre development - but it may have been to do with the rim. Someone else may have additional info.
 

Slydynbye

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Go for an ABSII, not just an ABS I had a 94 ABS and now have a 98 and an 2000 ABSII the 96 and later have the superior brakes.
 
OP
OP
lemonster1
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8965
Okay, first thanks for the responses and opinions/experiences...how does this approach sound in my quest to be a ST rider? Maybe secure an additional working 28amp alternator/stator if buying a pre-96 and possibly save up some coin for a 40amp upgrade? Don't anticipate much in the way of extra electrical draw needs.
To address the ABS/ ABSII comments, I've never had any on a motorcycle before...won't miss it if you don't know it right? Trust me no brakes are more stone age than a KLR!
Course getting a great deal on later years ST1100 would be awesome but don't want to pass on bikes that would be reliable also
Any additional thoughts surely welcome
Byron
 

paulcb

- - - Tetelestai - - - R.I.P. - 2022/05/26
Rest In Peace
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Location
Celina, TX
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'97/'01 ST1100 ABSII
STOC #
8735
Keep in mind that the reason people are suggesting the ST1100 ABSII linked brakes are because of the superior stopping power, not because of the ABS function. The ST is a heavy bike (700+ lbs.), and while the 2-piston calipers work well, the 3-piston ABSII calipers are much, much better. To clarify what's available for each year...

1991-2002 non-ABS: 2 piston, non-linked
1991-1995 ABSI: 2 piston, non-linked
1996-2002 ABSII: 3 piston, linked
1991-1995: 28A alternator
1996-2002: 40A alternator

ST linked brakes: the front brake lever activates 2 of the pistons in each front caliper and 1 of the rear pistons. The rear pedal activates 2 of the rear pistons and 1 of the pistons in each front caliper.

It really comes down to cost, availability, location and when you want to purchase. Good luck!
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
Okay, first thanks for the responses and opinions/experiences...how does this approach sound in my quest to be a ST rider? Maybe secure an additional working 28amp alternator/stator if buying a pre-96 and possibly save up some coin for a 40amp upgrade? Don't anticipate much in the way of extra electrical draw needs.
To address the ABS/ ABSII comments, I've never had any on a motorcycle before...won't miss it if you don't know it right? Trust me no brakes are more stone age than a KLR!
Course getting a great deal on later years ST1100 would be awesome but don't want to pass on bikes that would be reliable also
Any additional thoughts surely welcome
Byron
28 amp alternators are becoming hard to find, with tired looking units sometimes having an asking price near the cost of a new 40 amp unit. Unless you can find one from a low mile wreck, or in the rare case a rebuilt one, head into 40 amp upgrade land. You don't want to spend a weekend or longer installing a used 28 amp and find out it doesn't work. Trusted part or 40 amp.
 

kiltman

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Stratford, Ontario Canada
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2002,ST1100ABS
STOC #
8826
I had some issues with my 1990, I dealt with them but a bit of preventative measures would have curbed some issues. Before purchasing a pre 96. Take the seat off, the left pannier and the left panel (takes a couple of minutes. Have a look in three areas. 1) inspect the connector for the Voltage regulator, pull the connector off and check for any evidence of melting, corrosion. 2) inspect the connector for the main relay(it has a green 30amp spare fuse in the housing), pull back the rubber cover and inspect the red connector the same way you did the VRR. 3) now above that are three yellow wires coming from the alternator and a black connector, follow the same procedure for inspection.
If you purchase the bike, monitor these connectors frequently, clean and use dielectric grease on the terminals.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
258
Location
Arlington,TX
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97 ST1100A
STOC #
7643
Previously I had a '95 w/28 amp/non abs, sold it with 95,000 miles and no problems. Though I had installed a volt meter to keep an eye on the charging system. I sold it after buying my '97 with ABS/TC with less than 30,000 miles 3 years ago. Reason for upgrade was primarily peace of mind on the electrical system and the ABS/TC. I agree the brakes are superior on the '97 but, I swear the '95 was stronger pulling with better gas mileage and it was difficult to let it go. Good luck with what ever you purchase.
 
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