Water Pump Leak Dilema- How much is Too much

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I have been dealing with the infamous coolant leak for the last 3 seasons. I learned a great deal from this forum, thank you very much. I recently dropped the radiator again and tighten all the hose clamps upstairs. I now am convinced that the leak is coming from the round hole which is an indicator for failing mechanical seal on the water pump.
I would love to be able to repair it myself, but I don't have the proper setup at home. What I saved from paying a shop will only go to my chiropractor and pain killers.
I have also learned that it is not uncommon for the water pump to leak a little. I am debating if I can put up with the leak. Attached is a pic of the leak after a 200 miles ride. The area was completely cleaned before the ride. Is this almost normal? How bad is it on a scale of 1 to 10? Is it safe to take it for a multi-day trip?
Thank you for your inputs. My bike is a 2007 ST1300A, 68,000miles.
Kenny
 

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Sometimes folks go about trying to stop the dreaded ST leaks the wrong way.
If you simply try to tighten the clamps, sometimes it does more damage than good.
On the T-stat housing, there are two pipes that come out of the lower rear sides, when coolant leaks from loose clamps, it seeps down between the hoses and the fittings and causes them to rust and pit.
Trying to tighten the clamps will not stop the leaks if this is the case. You must pull the hoses off, and clean and wire brush the fittings before tightening them down.
Another area that no one talks about or addresses, is the waterpump cover gasket (which is really a rubber seal), this gets hard and fails, and allows the coolant to seep past the seal, run down the ledge on the front of the engine, then exit NEAR both the square hole, and the round hole (blow back) and appear to be a failed water pump.
Before I would start tearing stuff apart, I would check the fittings noted above and replace the waterpump cover gasket (GASKET, WATER PUMP
19226-MCS-A10.
 

BakerBoy

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The causes aren't identical between all bikes. And very few leaks lead to pitting.

See mine here. The fix is straight forward with new 'constant tension' clamps (who's key benefit is that the bands are much wider and create better seal area). More tightening of the cheap, narrow factory clamps eventually damages the hoses. But if you're still on your original hoses now at 10 years, I suggest you replace them at the same time.

:yes:
 
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The causes aren't identical between all bikes. And very few leaks lead to pitting.

See mine here. The fix is straight forward with new 'constant tension' clamps (who's key benefit is that the bands are much wider and create better seal area). More tightening of the cheap, narrow factory clamps eventually damages the hoses. But if you're still on your original hoses now at 10 years, I suggest you replace them at the same time.

:yes:
While the causes may not be identical between all bikes, that much we can agree on, I have seen several dozen that were pitted and corroded in this area.
I have installed constant tension clamps in many ST1300's, both Police motors and civilian models, and while they are a better option than the cheap, narrow factory clamps, they also have their own issues (fitment with sharp edges cutting into hoses) they still leak if corrosion or pitting exists on the fittings, and you MUST install them on NEW hoses only, or the wider area will dig into the soft, swollen area that was next to the factory clamp and cause it to fail.
I've had Breeze clamps on my personal bike for 84,000 miles and have never had to deal with a coolant leak since then, however, that being said, I have also cleaned and prepped the pipes correctly and used OEM clamps with good results.
Its all about maintaining them, and checking them every time your under the tank.
On another note, I still can't understand how you made such a mess with coolant everywhere:rolleyes: I've never had a single drop hit the engine or the floor, so much in fact, that I don't even put down a tray or paper towels anymore!
All you need to do is take a plastic milk jug, cut the bottom out, and use the handle to hold it up to the lower hose and pipe, then slide the hose off! The pipe directs the flow towards you, while the hose directs the flow away from you, BUT since they are both inside the plastic jug, its ALL directed down into your drain container.
I care too much about my Dog to make such a mess :rofl1:
 

dduelin

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Tightening the clamps isn't the same as overtightening the clamps. 1/2 turn perhaps a little more. OEM clamps at 172,000 miles are doing just fine but I did replace all the hoses at 106,000 miles and the thermostat O ring a couple of times, once because it was leaking and once proactively to prevent it from leaking.

To the OP it does look like the weep hole is leaking indicating the water pump seal. If it was me I'd monitor the coolant tank to ascertain the amount of coolant that seems to be leaking. A little leak certainly looks a lot more. Then go ride.
 
OP
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I did buy a water pump cover gasket. I was able to unbolt the cover, but they bolts were tight and I did not have the torque ft/lb to fasten it after. My Haynes service manual does not show the torque ft/lb for those bolts. Does anyone know what they are?
 
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My honda
I did buy a water pump cover gasket. I was able to unbolt the cover, but they bolts were tight and I did have the torque ft/lb to fasten it after. My Haynes service manual does not show the torque ft/lb for those bolts. Does anyone know what they are?
My Honda Service Manual simply says to install the water pump cover and tighten the bolt securely. No torque spec. Check the bolt size and go to the table in the front of your Haynes and use the torque spec for that size bolt. Remember it is for clean and dry threads - not lubricated bolts. Otherwise use a calibrated elbow.
 

Blrfl

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My Honda Service Manual simply says to install the water pump cover and tighten the bolt securely. No torque spec.
Any bolt with no torque spec defaults to what's listed in the Standard Torque Values table in the first chapter of the (Honda) manual. Those bolts are M6 and are torqued to 7 or 9 lb-ft depending on the head and flange sizes. (The measurements aren't in the book, but my money is on an 8mm head, which would be 7.)

--Mark
 
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Any bolt with no torque spec defaults to what's listed in the Standard Torque Values table in the first chapter of the (Honda) manual. Those bolts are M6 and are torqued to 7 or 9 lb-ft depending on the head and flange sizes. (The measurements aren't in the book, but my money is on an 8mm head, which would be 7.)

--Mark
Thanks for the clarification. Why would the head of the bolt make a difference in the torque spec? The torque stretches the bolt resulting in clamping pressure meeting a design objective. If you torque it more for the same size bolt with a bigger head (or washer under the head) sure the pressure will be distributed over a larger area, but now the clamping pressure on the bolted piece is increased. And, the tension on the cut threads in the aluminum block are increased.

I just looked at the chart and it has torque labeled in kgf-m and lbf-ft. What is a lbf? Pounds force?
 
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I just looked at the chart and it has torque labeled in kgf-m and lbf-ft. What is a lbf? Pounds force?[/QUOTE]

lbf = pound foot
 

paulcb

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I just looked at the chart and it has torque labeled in kgf-m and lbf-ft. What is a lbf? Pounds force?
lbf = pound foot[/QUOTE]

No, lbf = pounds force and kgf = kilograms force

lbf-ft = pound-foot, or foot pounds as we like to call torque here in the USA
 
OP
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SMSW, thank you for the info. That is super helpful. I know what to do. One more question, is it a good practice to put some anti-seize on the bolt when I restall it? Or should I use loctite thread lock? Or use nothing?
Calibrated elbow? Is that by feel?
Kenny
 
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Make sure you apply sealant (three bond 1207B or an equivalent) to the mating surfaces on the crankcase cover as shown in the service manual on FRONT CRANKCASE COVER INSTALLATION.
If you don't have a HONDA service manual, this area is approximately level with the 4th hole down on the left side (facing the engine) at three and nine o clock, (both sides of cover) and should cover an area of 5 -15 mm on both sides.
No loctite or anti-seize is needed. Be sure you clean the guide dowel pins before installation.
 
OP
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Igofar, I am only going to remove the pump cover and replace the O-ring. If it still leaks too much, I'll take it to a shop and let them work on it in the off seasons. Removing the crank case cover myself is beyond my skill and phyical comfort level. Thanks for the tips just the same.
Kenny
 

SupraSabre

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Make sure you apply sealant (three bond 1207B or an equivalent) to the mating surfaces on the crankcase cover as shown in the service manual on FRONT CRANKCASE COVER INSTALLATION.
If you don't have a HONDA service manual, this area is approximately level with the 4th hole down on the left side (facing the engine) at three and nine o clock, (both sides of cover) and should cover an area of 5 -15 mm on both sides.
No loctite or anti-seize is needed. Be sure you clean the guide dowel pins before installation.
I decided to just try a little grease on the gasket this last time with the '04#2. So far so good. I have several K on it since installing the new cover/gasket!
 
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