Electrical Cut Out

I'd just got off the highway and lost power about a half mile from home. I happened to have a multimeter on board and verified that the battery was at 12.56V. The clock is on. However, no headlights, signals, indicators or starter. Any suggestions as to where I should start looking for the problem? My first guess is a short near the ignition switch, but I'm a complete newbie.

You checked the voltage at the battery was usable, but did you check the tightness of the battery cables? Always the first place to look. Then the fuse panel.

If it's not the terminals, try this:

http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=7130.0

Just to the left of the battery.

I had that issue of the ST not starting. But I just installed an alarm system and checked the battery connections. Sure enough, the negative terminal was loose. Tightened the terminal, checked the positive terminal and it fired up.

I would concur with post #3, look at the connector at the main relay, it's probably melted. If it is you can splice in a new red wire with a spade connector and do the same with the other wires. Make sure you take a picture of the connector so that you can install the wires to the proper terminal in the relay. If not you may burn out the clutch diode and your neutral light will be displayed every time you pull in the clutch. ( the diode is located near the air cleaner under the false tank shelter on the left side in the wiring harness)

My issue fwiw is a touchy kill switch. Yea, that red thing next to your right thumb. Don't touch it when on the interstate. Your heart might skip a beat or two.. So my fix is to not touch it!

Really should fix that some day.

What do you mean by "signals and indicators" ?

Hey fellas,

I haven't had a lot of time to work on this because of work. But I did verify that the battery connections are clean and tight, fuses are good and the connection that Ron pointed out seems to be alright. And Jim, what I meant was turn signals and panel lights- "oil", "neutral", etc.

Now I also removed the battery to charge it with a trickle charger. And noticed that after charging to 12.6V it drops back down to 12.36 or so within an hour. Is this natural or do I need a new battery? I didn't think this would be the issue, because I actually checked the voltage before my last ride. It was at about 12.36V when I started and 12.56V when the bike died.

Then there's the ignition switch. Maybe 8-9 months ago, I had trouble turning the key and (I'm ashamed to admit) remedied the problem with WD-40. A month or two later, same problem and I used dry graphite lube. No trouble turning the key since. However, about 2 months ago, I would occasionally get no power after turning the key to "on". After switching "off" to "on" a time or two I was good to go. And my left headlight went out for about a week, then randomly turned back on.

That's all the evidence I can recall. And next I'm considering removing and cleaning the ignition switch.

I remember in the last days of ownership my ST1100 would occasionally not power up and start, I removed the body panel that hid the battery and it magically start. The next time it gave me trouble I was in a hurry and I gave the panel a couple of quick taps with my fist and it started. Talking to a mechanic he suggested that it most likely was the relay to the starter. I traded the bike in before I fixed it so so don't know for sure if it was the relay but he seemed pretty certain it was. That and my high/low beam switch where the only problems I recall with the bike, it seems others had the same issue with the high/low beam switch where the lights would just turn off when selecting high beam.

Your battery is not up to snuff, for one thing. A good fully charged battery should have a resting voltage of 12.8V at least. After being on a trickle charger, you should normally see something over 13V. Take the battery out and have it load tested. Likely you need a new one.

The ignition switch contacts can become worn and if that is the case, you are better to replace that unit than try to clean it. BTDT.

I'm not denying that I need a new battery. However, I wonder if it's more than that, because wouldn't the neutral light turn on even at a 70-80% charge? The clock works, but no other lights or displays.

glen said:

I'm not denying that I need a new battery. However, I wonder if it's more than that, because wouldn't the neutral light turn on even at a 70-80% charge? The clock works, but no other lights or displays.

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The headlight is always on on your bike, when you turn the ignition on. They have enough draw to kill whatever weak voltage you already have. You know you need a new battery, so replace it and go from there. No point in a guessing game when the main culprit is still in use.

EDIT: The clock will work because it requires such a tiny amount of current to work, otherwise, having a clock always on, even with the key off, would soon drain even a good battery.

glen said:

I'm not denying that I need a new battery. However, I wonder if it's more than that, because wouldn't the neutral light turn on even at a 70-80% charge? The clock works, but no other lights or displays.

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I suggest checking batt. voltage when other displays should be on. I would bet batt. voltage then would be in the 4-9v range. Replace batt. and be done with it!

I would like to confirm that you actually took the red connector off the main relay and inspected it, not just looked at it while it was connected and it looked OK. Aside from the battery, what you describe about the dash lights is typical of the main red wire to main relay meltdown.

kiltman said:

I would like to confirm that you actually took the red connector off the main relay and inspected it, not just looked at it while it was connected and it looked OK. Aside from the battery, what you describe about the dash lights is typical of the main red wire to main relay meltdown.

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+1!......a common issue with these ole' xs11's. At same time, with new fully charged batt. installed, using volt meter and bike running at idle, check charging voltage across the batt. terminals which should be in the high 14v range. Also, just as a preventative, remove voltage regulator from its heavy mounting plate and clean backside of regulator and its mouting plate. Mounting plate IS a heat sink for regulator and IS reason for its thickness, and all needs to be clean for a long life and proper operation of regulator. Clean contact between those two(regulator-mounting plate) helps disapate heat from regulator.

Brant said:

+1!......a common issue with these ole' xs11's. At same time, with new fully charged batt. installed, using volt meter and bike running at idle, check charging voltage across the batt. terminals which should be in the high 14v range. Also, just as a preventative, remove voltage regulator from its heavy mounting plate and clean backside of regulator and its mouting plate. Mounting plate IS a heat sink for regulator and IS reason for its thickness, and all needs to be clean for a long life and proper operation of regulator. Clean contact between those two(regulator-mounting plate) helps disapate heat from regulator.

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He has a 96 with a 40 amp alternator regulator built in and the voltage would be in the 13.5 range pre 96 with the 28 amp I agree Hi 14's

glen said:

Now I also removed the battery to charge it with a trickle charger. And noticed that after charging to 12.6V it drops back down to 12.36 or so within an hour. Is this natural or do I need a new battery? I didn't think this would be the issue, because I actually checked the voltage before my last ride. It was at about 12.36V when I started and 12.56V when the bike died.

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First, 12.36 one hour after removing from charger sounds bad, maybe not fatal, but bad. So that's your prime suspect so far.

Next, I assume the voltages you quote above are without any load, with the ignition switch turned off, is that correct?

Turn the ignition switch on, and take the readings again. If your readings are 12V or better, you have some problem in the current path. Take voltage readings at various places between the battery and the ignition switch (with the switch still on), and see if you have 12v all along that path. If you do, then start tracing the voltage on the other side of the ignition switch, it may be that your switch is bad like you suspect. If the voltage reading at the battery is less than 11.5v or so with the ignition switch on, then your battery needs replacing before going any further.

So, I found this after opening up the ignition switch. After re-soldering, my bike is back in action!
Thank you guys for taking the time to help me out.
And I reckon I'll still be investing in a new battery soon.

Thanks for the follow up. Don't think that particular fail has ever been posted here before! Replacement of a worn switch assembly has occurred for some - after 100,000 miles for me.

nice work, I wonder how did the solder melt like that??? That's really weird, I had a Yamaha where the ignition switch contacts eventually wore out, but that's a strange one for sure. Now that your switch issue is fixed, measure the battery voltage with the switch on but the bike not running.