A few questions

After too few km's on our new to us 2005 I have a few questions:

• Aside from starting, what should I expect for start-up behaviour?

• On the ride home from previous owners house I noticed the dreaded heat. Only three bars on the dash, outside temp was about 25 deg C.

• Lastly, is there a factory service manual available for the ST1300?

Grateful for all of your collective wisdom!

Good morning, great questions.

Idle could be effected by the filter too. Also, the five way t could be plugged slightly and clears a little when warmed.

Three bars on the engine temp is perfect. If it varies at all after warm up then the first thing to look at is the thermostat.

Definitely go back to stock air filter....

And the best place to pick up a factory service manual is eBay...or new from dealer.

Just my two cents.....

ToddC

Congrats on finding an ST!
I also have a few questions:
How many miles on your bike? What other modifications or add on stuff does it have?
As far as starting, when cold, your bike should start right up, and the idle should rise up to 1500-2000 rpm and remain there for a couple minutes, then lower back down to 1000 +/- 100.
The "thunk" you heard, could be something as simple as the throttle cable dry or binding, or a cruise control that was added (chain getting hung up) I would lubricate/adjust the cables first.
Since the bike is "new to you" I would go through everything to bring it up to speed ( I also would not trust the seller's list of things that he said was done ) but do it yourself so you know it was done correctly.
After a complete inspection of the brake system, secondary master cylinder function test, pads, clips, or any dragging issues, I would flush and bleed the brake system and the clutch system.
I would also change the engine oil and filter with a good quality diesel oil to clean every thing out, and replace the K&N filter with a stock paper filter.
If it were in front of me, I would also flush the coolant system out, change the T-stat and o-ring, and check all the hoses and clamps for leaks.
Depending on miles / condition, I would also replace the TB hoses and do a TB sync to see if I could get the heat issues under control.
Let us know what you find.

Thanks Todd,
The temp rises to 3 bars and holds steady.
Gotcha on the filter and Service Manual.
Calling around for filters now.

How long it takes to reach three bars is more important that the fact it reached them. I've had folks tell me it reached three bars.......15 minutes into the ride ....which would not be a good thing.
Your bike should reach three bars within a couple minutes (by the time you put your helmet and gloves on) if it takes longer than that, your T-stat may be starting to fail.
Like ToddC pointed out, I would also check to make sure your 5 way tee is not getting clogged up (do that by replacing the lines and doing a TB sync).

Igofar said:

How long it takes to reach three bars is more important that the fact it reached them. I've had folks tell me it reached three bars.......15 minutes into the ride ....which would not be a good thing.
Your bike should reach three bars within a couple minutes (by the time you put your helmet and gloves on) if it takes longer than that, your T-stat may be starting to fail.
Like ToddC pointed out, I would also check to make sure your 5 way tee is not getting clogged up (do that by replacing the lines and doing a TB sync).

Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in Larry,

It's an '05 with 56,000 kms or 35,000 miles. It has no modifications other than K&N filter, 55w bulbs and Tour Performance risers.
I have the fluid changes all lined up to do this week if all goes well work-wise.

The rpm definitely didn't rise this morning. I thought it was due to the warm air temperature. Mind you, my Triumph always ran to 1500 rpm when first started regardless of air temperature.
The temp hit three bars quickly, by the time I geared up and moved it around the driveway it was there.

Oh I forgot to ask one thing.

We filled the tank when we bought the bike. Since then we've ridden about 95 kms, about 85 kms two-up and all at a very moderate pace given that the bike is completely new to us. The fuel gauge is down two segments.
Does that seem like a big drop given the short distance?

The fuel guage down two segments after 95 kms is not a big drop. Based on my experience its quite normal.

When you do the brake fluid change, it is really important to do so as per the service manual. The brake system is quite complex with very specific bleeding sequence and a lot of bleed ports. If not done correctly, it can lead to rear brake problems(binding, locking up).
Both IgoFar and JmHeath on this forum have written up great information here that you can do a search for.
Your rear shock pre-load adjuster probably also needs to be filled with oil as well. Again, IgoFar has posted some great instructions in the forum about how to do this quite easily.
I got my St1300 this past spring and IgoFar has helped me out with it over the white courtesy phone with these and other things about my bike in order to get it up to speed.
They are great bikes and every time I ride mine I am just shunned by how good it is. I hope you have many great miles of riding on yours!

If you look at an owners manual, it will advise to wait till it gets to three bars before riding. This will minimize that sluggish, cold, feeling when you take off.

Thanks for the guidance all!

Update on the startup:
After work STella started just as described by Igofar.
The picture was taken about 20 seconds after I hit the starter.

I'll report back on tomorrow's startup
(This community is just awesome!)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How quickly the fuel gauge drops off the first segment bar or two can be effected by how "full" it was filled. I always fill using the same routine (on centerstand and virtually to the rim) and my fuel gauge and range are typically very predictable at about 320 miles when first down to the one flashing bar.
On a fuel injection system using a Mass Air Sensor an air filter that flows more air won't result in a "leaner" mixture. Air/fuel ratio is kept proper by the amount of air flow measured. But, a filter that flows more air is usually doing so by by being less restrictive and typically allows a lot of fine particulants thru the system. An OEM type pleated paper filter will do a better job. I will never use the K&N foam/mesh type.

If you have trouble finding an ST1300 Service Manual, you can get one directly from the publisher:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=AHC&Model=ST03&Year=2008&Category=1&class_2=AHC&mk=Honda+Motorcycle&yr=2008&md=ST1300&dt=Shop/Service+Information&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=61MCS14&itemtype=N

Nice picture! However, I see your using the OEM key.....Don't do that these keys are very thin and can bend very easily, and break off in the Ignition, gas cap, glove box, or saddlebags! Have a couple spare ones made, and use them for daily riding, and keep the Honda one for making copies.
That picture would make a nice screen saver...
Glad your enjoying your new bike.
Igofar

Igofar said:

Nice picture! However, I see your using the OEM key.....Don't do that these keys are very thin and can bend very easily, and break off in the Ignition, gas cap, glove box, or saddlebags! Have a couple spare ones made, and use them for daily riding, and keep the Honda one for making copies.
That picture would make a nice screen saver...
Glad your enjoying your new bike.
Igofar

Click to expand...

I wonder if that's why I have two original keys and three more spares!
(Thanks for the compliment on the pic!)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Running some seafoam or similar will also give the fuel injection a nice cleaning on top of all other recommendations.

Rubberdarts said:

Running some seafoam or similar will also give the fuel injection a nice cleaning on top of all other recommendations.

Click to expand...

I just happen to have some on hand


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would change the rear differential oil asap too. It is an item that get forgotten. I forgot mine for 5 years, the stuff came out was black and stunk up my garage. It is a job most DIY can handle.
Kenny

DavidR8 said:

I wonder if that's why I have two original keys and three more spares!

Click to expand...

For practical application that would be three keys and two original 'spares'.

The original keys stay pristine and are good for making copies. And breaking off in oh saaaay— gas caps. (DAMHIK). They're cheap metal compared to Ilco or other replacement blanks.

I keep a spare key on me and my buddy has a spare and one is kept in a hermetically sealed envelope in a mayonnaise jar onFunk & Wagnall's porch.

I always fill using the same routine (on centerstand and virtually to the rim) and my fuel gauge and range are typically very predictable at about 320 miles when first down to the one flashing bar.

That is great gas mileage. I normally go till 280 on the interstate at approximately 75 -80 mph (indicated), when I hit the one flashing bar. I also fill on the center stand to the rim.