- Joined
- Mar 18, 2006
- Messages
- 2,831
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
- Bike
- 2013 ST1300 A9
- 2024 Miles
- 000679
- STOC #
- 2570
The centre stand arm is a pretty good lever. Put the centre stand down so that it is touching the ground with both legs - the bike should remain balanced if you keep your foot on the foot lever. If you then stand on it and pull your weight down onto the stand while pulling the bike backwards on the bars and the flip-out arm, it takes much less muscle power and strain on your back. At this point, you have no feet on the ground. After overcoming the inertia, it just pops up onto the stand. Easier if you have heavy soled footwear, as all of your weight and more is being pressed into that tiny square of metal.
As for fitting a side stand down switch - the electrics / electronics are a little more complicated than your normal switch. For a start, the switch completes the circuit by connecting to earth - so it doesn't actually provide any switched power, as you may imagine that it would. Put anything in the circuit after the switch and it would be connected to earth whether the side stand was down or not. Put anything in before the switch and you risk completing the circuit, allowing the rest of the system to believe that the side stand switch had been turned on - so it would be like that all of the time.
Then there are the other components in the circuit, which are connected in such a way that the bike can only be started if the bike is in neutral, or the clutch is pulled in.
Then there is the rather non-intuitive logic that doesn't allow the engine to be started if the bike is in gear, the side stand is up and the clutch is released. Think about it. That's how it is when you are riding. So whether or not the engine is already running comes into play somewhere.
There are two opposing diodes in a cartridge in one of the fuse boxes. These prevent the 'signals' from some of the switches from being confused with the 'signals' from others. And at some point the signals are sent to the ECM so that it can decide whether or not to allow the engine to be started or to allow it to continue running.
I'm not saying it is impossible, but it would need very careful analysis of what the circuit is doing.
Neither of my ST1100s had an LED to indicate that the sidestand was down. Except when I accidentally blew the diodes. The Neutral light would then come on when the stand was down and also when I pulled the clutch lever in. I'm not suggesting this as a solution. I would suspect that the 1300 controls the circuitry more than the 1100 did. But that is just my supposition.
I'd not thought about it before, but thinking about it now, I realise that more times than not I stop the engine by flicking the side stand down. I think this came about because if I didn't do that first, I would forget to do it, and I prefer for it to be down when my pillion gets off.
As for fitting a side stand down switch - the electrics / electronics are a little more complicated than your normal switch. For a start, the switch completes the circuit by connecting to earth - so it doesn't actually provide any switched power, as you may imagine that it would. Put anything in the circuit after the switch and it would be connected to earth whether the side stand was down or not. Put anything in before the switch and you risk completing the circuit, allowing the rest of the system to believe that the side stand switch had been turned on - so it would be like that all of the time.
Then there are the other components in the circuit, which are connected in such a way that the bike can only be started if the bike is in neutral, or the clutch is pulled in.
Then there is the rather non-intuitive logic that doesn't allow the engine to be started if the bike is in gear, the side stand is up and the clutch is released. Think about it. That's how it is when you are riding. So whether or not the engine is already running comes into play somewhere.
There are two opposing diodes in a cartridge in one of the fuse boxes. These prevent the 'signals' from some of the switches from being confused with the 'signals' from others. And at some point the signals are sent to the ECM so that it can decide whether or not to allow the engine to be started or to allow it to continue running.
I'm not saying it is impossible, but it would need very careful analysis of what the circuit is doing.
Neither of my ST1100s had an LED to indicate that the sidestand was down. Except when I accidentally blew the diodes. The Neutral light would then come on when the stand was down and also when I pulled the clutch lever in. I'm not suggesting this as a solution. I would suspect that the 1300 controls the circuitry more than the 1100 did. But that is just my supposition.
I'd not thought about it before, but thinking about it now, I realise that more times than not I stop the engine by flicking the side stand down. I think this came about because if I didn't do that first, I would forget to do it, and I prefer for it to be down when my pillion gets off.