My first improvement to HF lift, safety improvement!

T_C

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St. Louis, MO
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2005 St1300
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I know there are many mods to the HF lift table (#69904). I've read the horror stories about the bending safety bar but for my Christmas present I took the gamble.

This lift did come with the solid bar, not the tube. But it still looked to be a liability with the gap between the moving arm and the base. Over a 1" gap there, so instead of the arm being used in a shear motion it's just a bending movement. bending is much easier to do then shear cutting.
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A quick trip to the local steel shop and I scored a 2"x3" piece of angle, .250 thick and 2' long. Just about perfect size and cost all of $5 since it was in the cut-off pile. Stopped by the hardware store and bought some good bolts.

I knew the 2" was bigger then I needed but I figured with the band saw in a vertical format I could rip the length to width. Wrong!! Not 1/4" thick stuff. Well, I could but it would take me the better part of 2 days. Break out the angle grinder and chuck up a cut-off disc.

Clamped the bar into place, put a 5/16" cobalt bit in the corded drill and grabbed a bottle of cutting oil. Slow speed and straight pressure are needed. Half a dozen holes later and some grade 5 bolts I call it good. Now with a 1/8" gap I think the bar can do the job it was intended for.
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One improvement down and more to go...
 
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I like it, nice work.

I'm not sure, I'll have to look at mine, but I think the one I have does have an angle at that point. It's not as close as your mod but it's not a blunt end.

What other mods do you have in mind?

I've been using something under the center stand of the ST (right now a thick cutting board) cuz it's denting my deck in that area.
 
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I like it, nice work.

I'm not sure, I'll have to look at mine, but I think the one I have does have an angle at that point. It's not as close as your mod but it's not a blunt end.

What other mods do you have in mind?

I've been using something under the center stand of the ST (right now a thick cutting board) cuz it's denting my deck in that area.
I think you may have posted elsewhere that the CS is bending your deck. Thanks to that post, I took an old (older than 60 yrs) piece of 1/4" steel that is 2' x4' and placed it on the deck. It seems to be doing the job.

I'm going to cut 4 pieces of 4x4 or doubled 2x6 to serve as posts to support the corners of the deck when the locking bar is in place. My lift flexes and the deck wobbles if I push or pull on the bike (as in wrenching). Probably not too much, but it bothers me enough to cut the wood.
 
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T_C

T_C

Joined
Mar 8, 2012
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Location
St. Louis, MO
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2005 St1300
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8568
I've been using something under the center stand of the ST (right now a thick cutting board) cuz it's denting my deck in that area.
Not that I don't trust ya, but have any pictures of the dents. Are they small dents just from the landing pads or overall dent from the shear weight? just curious so I can engineer something before it's too late.

I've seen the other lift model number and the outer rails are a C-channel. This will give more flat space for the bar to sit on but it's pointed away form the direction needed. So you still have the 1"+ distance between the rail and the vertical bar.
Now maybe some of the older models had a different design. I've just seen the two current production models.

Next up for me is the usual chock replacement and mine has the bolted on pedal for jack release. I need to replace the bolt with a cotterless hitch pin or a wire lock pin. I'm also thinking of how to incorporate the new chock with a removable front panel so I can easily drop out the front wheel for maintenance. I need to make the side stands too for my feet. Thinking I can use the lumber from the crate the unit shipped in.
 

TMUS

MSF Instructor 32 years
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I store my ST1300 on my HF lift over the winter, I put sawhorses running long ways with 2x4's going under the lift. This is just right for height so not having full load on the lift. The safety bar is just touching the frame. Sawhorses tuck under the lift and out of the way. Keeps the mice out of the bike. I do this even when I am working on the bike, peace of mind, the lift seems to want to tilt/lean to the right when it is starting to lift, makes me a little nervous.

ST work photo.jpg


Old photo :)
 
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Not that I don't trust ya, but have any pictures of the dents. Are they small dents just from the landing pads or overall dent from the shear weight? just curious so I can engineer something before it's too late.

I've seen the other lift model number and the outer rails are a C-channel. This will give more flat space for the bar to sit on but it's pointed away form the direction needed. So you still have the 1"+ distance between the rail and the vertical bar.
Now maybe some of the older models had a different design. I've just seen the two current production models.

Next up for me is the usual chock replacement and mine has the bolted on pedal for jack release. I need to replace the bolt with a cotterless hitch pin or a wire lock pin. I'm also thinking of how to incorporate the new chock with a removable front panel so I can easily drop out the front wheel for maintenance. I need to make the side stands too for my feet. Thinking I can use the lumber from the crate the unit shipped in.
LOL... not that you don't trust me... lol... It's the spots where the landing pads are on the center stand and I would assume its the weight of the ST that on those pads that did it. I can snap a pic tonight or as soon as I remember. it's not "bad" or anyway to the point I am concerned about it. It's prob just a little OCD on my part to even worry about it at all.

You might be right about the other model having the C-channel, I'll snap a pic of that too just so we can compare. I agree that the gap is still there but the bar seems to do it's job as the lift will slowly (over days) drop a few inches. I had a '96 Fat Boy on the stand for months when stripping it down and rebuilding it, and most of that it was on the safety bar.

I ended up changing the squeeze type chock with the HF ride on chock and drilled holes to drop cap bolts down with wing nuts below so I can remove it pretty easy. I did that because I like the chock for the 919 (no center stand) and normally take it off for the putting the ST on which would be on the center stand. It depends what I'm planning on doing but with the 919 it's nice to just ride it up and step off. I do the same with the ST at times but the HF chock is a little iffy about holding up the ST.

I had a exercise "step" in the garage that I just put next to the left side of the lift and it's just the right height so I never built any boxes to use but agree it's needed. My buddy is a little timid about riding his Street Glide up onto the lift cuz he can't reach the floor and he doesn't do it near as much as me and I'm a bit taller. For piece of mind and safety at least one side box or landing to put a foot on is required.
 
Joined
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I store my ST1300 on my HF lift over the winter, I put sawhorses running long ways with 2x4's going under the lift. This is just right for height so not having full load on the lift. The safety bar is just touching the frame. Sawhorses tuck under the lift and out of the way. Keeps the mice out of the bike. I do this even when I am working on the bike, peace of mind, the lift seems to want to tilt/lean to the right when it is starting to lift, makes me a little nervous.

ST work photo.jpg


Old photo :)
You are spot on with the lift leaning left or right if the bike isn't centered side to side. My 919 must be light enough I don't notice it to much but the ST or my buddies HD will lean the table as soon as it starts to lift off the lower frame. I've found that moving the bike will fix that. The ST I put on the center stand on a board or the thickish cutting board I now use and I can slide it side to side enough to move the weight to center... with the lift lowered of course. The HD I have him roll off and ride it back on.

I left the table a few inches and if it leans I reposition the bike. If I start to lift the table and it doesn't lean... good to go. I pretty much do that check with any bike I put on there now, just lift a few inches if it leans by itself, lower and reposition the bike, if it doesn't lean by itself I give it a little push/pull from side to side, if the table leans more than I like I reposition the bike. Once the weight is centered it's nice and stable.

I like the sawhorse idea, not sure it's required but for piece of mind it's a great idea. I think once the table is either lowered onto the safety bar, or it lowers itself over time, it's pretty rock solid.
 

TMUS

MSF Instructor 32 years
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I do have to place the ST to the right of center to be able to put the side stand down to get off the bike after riding it on, I will try and get it centered next time. Just not comfortable placing side stand on the lip edge of the lift, up to straight for comfort.

Tim
 
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I do have to place the ST to the right of center to be able to put the side stand down to get off the bike after riding it on, I will try and get it centered next time. Just not comfortable placing side stand on the lip edge of the lift, up to straight for comfort.

Tim
Good point. I don't worry to much about it. I get off and place on center stand without letting go of it but I understand what you're saying.
 

TMUS

MSF Instructor 32 years
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After I put the ST :06biker: on the lift I use ratchet straps hooked to the center stand to pull it forward. FYI, do not, I repeat, do not put a board under the center stand than ratchet down the forks with out the front tire touching the tire stop. There I was on my knees strapping down the ST by the tripled tree and it came off the center stand, caught it with my hands on the fairing, holding it up and yelling for the wife just to have her check if the side stand was down, it was. Slowly let the ST tilt to the side stand. :eek:
 

ST Gui

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You are spot on with the lift leaning left or right if the bike isn't centered side to side.
Maybe a stripe painted the length of the lift to show the center of balance? I'd assume lining up on the wheel chock would be sufficient but maybe not?
 
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Maybe a stripe painted the length of the lift to show the center of balance? I'd assume lining up on the wheel chock would be sufficient but maybe not?
It would help in some cases.

The wheel chock might get you there but I have found if the back wheel is too far off center it will still lean. I don't use the chock for the ST due to the center stand but the HD's with the chock will lean if the rear tire isn't pretty close, in which case I make them roll off and move it over a little. It normally only takes one readjustment.

Anything on a center stand or light enough can be move with little effort.
 
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