Tip-over bars - general question

Duporth

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I am examining alternative tip-over bars including those from the Goldwing.

My question relates to mounting to the ST frame by the two sturdy frame bolts. These bolts are socket round heads that on the bike screw in flush with the outer surface. They screw into a 'hole' bored to about 7/8" dia.

When a tip-over bar is fitted the bored hole remains 'empty' with the smaller bolt shank passing through. This idea doesn't sound good to me in terms of supporting the tip-overs or the bike frame.

1. What would ST'ers think please? No doubt there are many ST getting around and alas tipping 'successfully'.

2. I also had a thought that a ~7/8' dia collar could be made and pushed into the bored part and be just proud of the outer surface so that the tip-over mounting plate would tighten on that instead of the outer bike frame surface.

Thanks for thoughts.

D
 

SupraSabre

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Pictures or diagrams?

The GW rear tip over bars would hold just fine with RedDirtCowboy's plates attached. So I'm not sure what you are asking.
 
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I know what you are asking and yes having whatever you bolt on there stand proud would make me happy. As it is I put some hard rubber between the alloy casting and my MCL tip over bars.
It's not optimal but it's working. I would rather have the sleeves. If you make them may I have a set please?
 

dduelin

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It doesn't seem to be a problem to bolt them directly to the frame through the step plate but I've only tested my Goldwing bars mounted like this once. I believe the original bolts are flush in the step for aesthetic reasons and not for strength. The adapter plates to my eye are awkward looking and unnecessary but to each his own opinion.
 
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T_C

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Seems like... :BDH:

Many of us have been using the GoldWing bars for years and have tested the strength numerous times. heck I even dropped my bike off a three foot lift onto it's side. If that doesn't stress them to the bend point I don't think anything will.

The outer piece is solid, the inner piece is solid. Pushing on the threads or the outer face results in the same pressure to the same structural members just at the top of the well instead of the bottom. But the well has solid walls, so in the end... just do it.
 
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The other alternative is made by MC Enterprises. It is the one used by law enforcement.

http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/garage/policebikes_honda_st1300.htm

I saw one of the last ST1300's used by the Sheriffs Dept in the garage. It was being used as a training bike. All the new Deputy's were required to low side the bike so they would know how to ride it out. The rear MC (#1300-2) bars were not bent but rather ground off. Instead of a tube it looked more like a C channel and it was still holding up!

Because of that I bought the 1300-2 bars for both my bikes. They also protect the saddle bags and give me a place to add extra rear tail lights.
You can order them direct from the factory.
 
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ST Gui

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SupraSabre said:
So I'm not sure what you are asking.
I think he's concerned that bolts used to mount the GW bars are 'unsupported' where they pass through the ST's frame recesses that were previously filled with the heads of the OEM bolts.

I'm not sure about the 'smaller shank' part. The bolts used for the GW bars are longer but are they not the same diameter?

Seems clear enough that this isn't a cause for concern which is part of what he's asking.


2. I also had a thought that a ~7/8' dia collar could be made and pushed into the bored part and be just proud of the outer surface so that the tip-over mounting plate would tighten on that instead of the outer bike frame surface.
First the 'problem' solved would be one of aesthetics. The base of the bars wouldn't mar the surface of the frame during the installation. The bars could be removed with no sign of them ever having been installed. I can appreciate that. I thought of hard rubber pads as well.

Second I'd wonder if not having the base of the bars flush wouldn't actually weaken the support by way of less surface area. Would that mean the bars would be more likely to snap and be far less effective? I don't know.

To preserve the finish of the frame maybe the combination of collars and pads could work. Or collars with studly metal flanges welded on. Or collars with a studly metal bridge that ties them together without the need for plates. That's a thought. Again I don't know how structurally sound that is compare to just bolting the bar bars to the frame.

Realistically if I get roundtoit it'll probably just come down to crank and cringe and don't look closely. And never take the bars off anyway except to :eek:4: replace them for <cough> some reason.
 
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Duporth

Duporth

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Thank you fellow ST' ers for very helpful comments.

I am always analysing and looking for innovative solutions on my bikes as a first approach - fun, then I consider the "cringe and don't look closely" option [thank you ST Gui]. The latter sure has a place.

Lots of field evidence in ST land that bolting directly to the side structure works. Can't argue that - great knowledge. Maybe a durable thin layer under the direct bracket bolt on? (There I go again!). At least this way I can imagine I am reducing chance of marring the clean silver surface beneath.

Thanks again.

D
 

ST Gui

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Duporth said:
At least this way I can imagine I am reducing chance of marring the clean silver surface beneath.
Nothing wrong with that. I've been thinking the same thing since I first saw this option. 'Adapter plates' weren't an option at the time. I liked the idea because it didn't involve any deforming of the GW bars.

On balance the frame might still be marred (even if slightly) by the plates and they are somewhat bulky in appearance. I prefer the look of the bars naked and would consider some kind of barrier.
 
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I used a bushing where the bolts recessed below the surface when mounting the Goldwing tip over bars. The frame in that location is not flat. Using the bushings keeps the mounting plate off the frame and also keeps the bolt from pulling the plate side ways since the frame is not flat. The bushings can be picked up at any hardware store. If you decide you do not want the tip over bars on later, by using the bushings you will not scratch or mar the frame surface. 001.jpg002.jpg
 
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Duporth

Duporth

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Thank you Paul. This is just what I was thinking of, as shown in your photos. Nice job!!

I have my suspicions the surface around the two frame mounting bolts is not flat and I am reluctant to mount the flat adapter plates directly to the frame. Ouch! Fundamentally 'not good'.

The bushings could be made up quite simply on a lathe if not available through a shop. Then my fussy self would be happy with the outcome. Then on to the next project !

Lots of long test rides in between of course.

Thanks again.

D
 

SupraSabre

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I used a bushing where the bolts recessed below the surface when mounting the Goldwing tip over bars. The frame in that location is not flat. Using the bushings keeps the mounting plate off the frame and also keeps the bolt from pulling the plate side ways since the frame is not flat. The bushings can be picked up at any hardware store. If you decide you do not want the tip over bars on later, by using the bushings you will not scratch or mar the frame surface. ...
Good thinking.

I had placed some rubber matting between the tipover bar brackets and the step, but I think your idea is better. I'll have to see if some of the bushings I have will work for that.
 

DavidR8

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I'm very interested in this as I have a pair of GL1800 bars on my workbench waiting for adapters to arrive.
I looked at the frame this morning and it looks very flat to me however I did not lay a straightedge across it.


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dduelin

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I am particular about my stuff and keep it in great shape so I understand the need not to mar the step but I never plan to remove the bars so for me the point is moot. I can't see under the bars when they are mounted and they've been on there for years.
 
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The other alternative is made by MC Enterprises. It is the one used by law enforcement.

http://www.mcenterprisesusa.com/garage/policebikes_honda_st1300.htm

I saw one of the last ST1300's used by the Sheriffs Dept in the garage. It was being used as a training bike. All the new Deputy's were required to low side the bike so they would know how to ride it out. The rear MC (#1300-2) bars were not bent but rather ground off. Instead of a tube it looked more like a C channel and it was still holding up!

Because of that I bought the 1300-2 bars for both my bikes. They also protect the saddle bags and give me a place to add extra rear tail lights.
You can order them direct from the factory.

I'd like these to mount siren and shotgun!
 
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Duporth

Duporth

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Or maybe just a stack of washers can be used instead of a bush.
 
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