I may never go back - AudioVox CCS-100 failure

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My AudioVox CCS-100 may have given up its ghost. (All diagnostic lights -- power, brake, ignition coil pulses -- are fine, mechanical links are fine) .

While I diagnose it, I am giving the Cheap-O-Matic O-ring (Danco O-Ring #13) cruise a try. Now this is not like the Caterpillar O-ring that can be easily rolled off and on. This is a semi-permanent installation that wedges between the bar end weight and the plastic throttle tube to defeat the throttle return spring. Its friction is adjustable by tightening the bar end weight screw appropriately. I thought I might hate it. But to my surprise, I find that I like the set up even for urban commutes. The stress relief from not having to grip the throttle is immense. I have never relied on the spring to return throttle, so that is not a problem. Granted it will not hold speed like my AudioVox, but even with it I never rode with my right hand completely off; so making minor changes for the conditions is not a problem (unless you live in an area with sinusoidal roads with large amplititude or frequency). Now If I can think of a way to loosen or tighten the bar end bolt on the fly it would be perfect for those who need a throttle spring return to be turned off or on on demand.


Back to my Audiovox. Any other way to test solenoid? Did not test vacuum booster. But would the cruise fail to hold completely without vacuum boost?

Happy Riding
--Ram
 
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I have just replaced the servo only (available from Murfh's kits) and the cruise control works great. It is mush easier then initial installation.
 

woodybelle

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Any other way to test solenoid?
Yes there is. Mine quit working and it turned out that the solenoids were stuck. I disassembled the servo, tested each solenoid with a 12v battery and some jumper wires. All 3 solenoids clicked when energizing so I put a drop of 3 in 1 oil in each solenoid and it has worked perfectly since. The servo is simple to take apart just go slow and easy with the plastic release tabs, I found a thread about doing this on this forum.
 

Uncle Phil

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The folks at MCCruise (the Australian Cruise Control Maker) said our ethanol formulations work hard on the O-rings in their solenoids in the vacuum boosters. It's the vapors through the vacuum lines that seem to so it. I've had to replace the O-rings in a couple of my units.
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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I have an AudioVox CCS-100, NITB, that I'm still contemplating installing on my 2012. I just haven't gotten the energy yet, to mount it! :D

I've seen lots of good information here to keep them running for a long time.
 
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I should have made it clear. I am aware of commercial solutions. Looking for a Throttle-MISER - or a hackable CHEAP-O(TM) solution.
--Ram
The [FONT=&amp]Caterpillar O-ring[/FONT][FONT=&amp] part 8M-4991 ($0.99) is the cheapest "break away throttle lock" I've ever used. I've had one on my YZF600R for years and it works great! The only potential issue I've had is that the throttle can slowly return due to vibration. In my case I know that it's the result of the spacing between my grip and my bar end being too great. I've had it hold for tens of miles with no trouble in the past, but since I adjusted the grip one day, it slowly lets out after about 5 miles or so, hands-free. But keeping your hand on the grip as you continue down the road is enough to keep it in place with no concerns.

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[FONT=&amp]Easy to operate, too. Roll it in between grip and bar end to activate. Roll it back to de-activate. Throttle can be adjusted on the fly.

[/FONT]
IMG_7252.jpg
IMG_7251.jpg[FONT=&amp]


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OP
OP
sstakes1
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I'm sold on this O-ring thing. Just got back from a 1200 mile weekender to Indianapolis, Milwaukee and Chicago. Unfortunately had to battle Chicagoland traffic during peak hours yesterday. The O-ring cruise made this much easier as it will hold very low speeds, ideal for traffic that is crawling.
 
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Yes there is. Mine quit working and it turned out that the solenoids were stuck. I disassembled the servo, tested each solenoid with a 12v battery and some jumper wires. All 3 solenoids clicked when energizing so I put a drop of 3 in 1 oil in each solenoid and it has worked perfectly since. The servo is simple to take apart just go slow and easy with the plastic release tabs, I found a thread about doing this on this forum.
I've got a CCS-100 that stopped working some time back. Since I mostly did short rides it was never really an issue. But after spending a $#*@ load of money getting my ST1100 running again (long story.. but I'm going to use it as much as possible while it's working again now) I'd like to get the CC going - it used to work fine. I've done all the manual described troubleshooting, all LED's flash when using controls and testing brakes. This (oiling the servo solenoids) sounds like the next logical step. Where is the thread about doing this that you mentioned? I tried to search but couldn't find a reference to it.
 
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I've got a CCS-100 that stopped working some time back. Since I mostly did short rides it was never really an issue. But after spending a $#*@ load of money getting my ST1100 running again (long story.. but I'm going to use it as much as possible while it's working again now) I'd like to get the CC going - it used to work fine. I've done all the manual described troubleshooting, all LED's flash when using controls and testing brakes. This (oiling the servo solenoids) sounds like the next logical step. Where is the thread about doing this that you mentioned? I tried to search but couldn't find a reference to it.
So.. I think I found my problem. I decided to try and open it up just to see if I could find any particular issues, and wouldn't ya know. No clue how this happened but is it fair to guess this is why it won't work? What size do I need? Is it a special part or can I just swing by Home Depot for a replacement?

IMG_20170930_173301.jpg

EDIT:

I went to home depot and grabbed some o-rings. Couldn't find an exact match, the best they had was a #60 which was slightly smaller. They stretched a touch to fit over the post before putting back in the housing, and it all seemed to seat well but still no dice. When y'all talk about putting voltage to the solenoid contacts to test or lubricate them, how do you do that?
 
Last edited:

woodybelle

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I do not remember what the contacts looked like inside the servo but I seem to remember being able to trace where the power and ground leads were. I took a small motorcycle battery and attached two leads with alligator clips on each end. I connected the negative lead to the solenoid common ground lead and tapped each of the solenoid hot leads and heard the solenoids clicking as I did so. After confirming that all 3 solenoids clicked I put a drop of 3 in 1 oil down each vacuum port and click each one a few more times. I wish I had a picture to show you.
 
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I do not remember what the contacts looked like inside the servo but I seem to remember being able to trace where the power and ground leads were. I took a small motorcycle battery and attached two leads with alligator clips on each end. I connected the negative lead to the solenoid common ground lead and tapped each of the solenoid hot leads and heard the solenoids clicking as I did so. After confirming that all 3 solenoids clicked I put a drop of 3 in 1 oil down each vacuum port and click each one a few more times. I wish I had a picture to show you.
I can get a pretty good idea of the setup. Just need to get the leads, I should be able to just clip them to the terminals as the battery sits in my bike and do this.

Do you happen to know the O-ring size needed? I'm not sure the #60's I got are the right one, but can't be positive until I can test the solenoids. Also, was there a way to test the vacuum holding capacity of the system? If solenoids check out the vacuum unit itself is the next thing I'll check.
 

moddy

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When y'all talk about putting voltage to the solenoid contacts to test or lubricate them, how do you do that?
With the servo disassembled, each servo has two leads. You can put 12 volts to these leads and it will charge the electromagnet.
 
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So.. I think I found my problem. I decided to try and open it up just to see if I could find any particular issues, and wouldn't ya know. No clue how this happened but is it fair to guess this is why it won't work? What size do I need? Is it a special part or can I just swing by Home Depot for a replacement?

IMG_20170930_173301.jpg


I went to home depot and grabbed some o-rings. Couldn't find an exact match, the best they had was a #60 which was slightly smaller. They stretched a touch to fit over the post before putting back in the housing, and it all seemed to seat well but still no dice. When y'all talk about putting voltage to the solenoid contacts to test or lubricate them, how do you do that?
The best place try to match up an odd-ball sized o-ring is at an industrial hydraulics shop.

Just search in the yellow pages for a Parker Hannifin, Sundstrand, Rexroth or Vickers distributor. Take in the o-ring pieces and show them to the counter man and he’ll likely be able to sell you half a dozen close matches for a couple of dollars.

Pete
 
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I have replaced 2 of the same CC with the Rostra electronic with ease. The controller is in place as well as the linkage, so it is quite easy to replace, and a far superior unit than old vacuum ones IMO.
 
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The [FONT=&amp]Caterpillar O-ring[/FONT][FONT=&amp] part 8M-4991 ($0.99) is the cheapest "break away throttle lock" I've ever used. I've had one on my YZF600R for years and it works great! The only potential issue I've had is that the throttle can slowly return due to vibration. In my case I know that it's the result of the spacing between my grip and my bar end being too great. I've had it hold for tens of miles with no trouble in the past, but since I adjusted the grip one day, it slowly lets out after about 5 miles or so, hands-free. But keeping your hand on the grip as you continue down the road is enough to keep it in place with no concerns.

Easy to operate, too. Roll it in between grip and bar end to activate. Roll it back to de-activate. Throttle can be adjusted on the fly.

[/FONT]IMG_7252.jpg
IMG_7251.jpg[FONT=&amp]


[/FONT]
Thankyou so much. Makes a lot more sense now. I guess I’m just a visual learner
 
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