Harbor Freight Tire Changer - A Review

Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,110
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
I am not an expert tire changer, but I did recently buy a Harbor Frt Tire Changer and Motorcycle attachment (HFTC) For years now I have been wearing out two cliche's - “You get what you pay for†and “there is no free lunchâ€. The HF tire changer bears these sayings out.

First Problem: My HF MC attachment did not screw onto the HFTC. This was a familiar problem to the store - they have had issues with items made in different factories. Unfortunately, this HF store had none of the changers made at a different location (different stock number). I had to go to another branch for the swap. All of the people were pleasant, and handled this problem nicely, but it was still a waste of time and gas.

The HfTC is not complete as it comes from the box. Their tire tool is useful only for repelling boarders (pirates) and certainly not changing your tire on an aluminum wheel. I did find it useful as an extension to the bead breaker on the tire changer. You will need either the NoMar Bar or the Mojo Bar and a set of Mojo Blocks to securely grip the wheel. You will also need lube (Klaproth suggested Murphy's oil soap and water - 50-50), a tool to unscrew the valve from the wheel, and a way to prevent the wheel from turning when clamped in the machine. NoMar sells a yellow thing that slips onto the rim to prevent the tire from sliding around the rim as you set the bead, and some clamps that hold the bead inboard of the rim to make clamping the rim easier, but wood blocks or large wood working clamps (I used Irwin speed clamps) work well, too.

Add most of $200 for these accessories and you can see how the HF tire changer might not be the bargain you expected. It still beats the competition, but read on.

Once assembled, and bolted down, I found the HFTC to be too tall for me to use comfortably. With the tire just below chest height, it is difficult to find the leverage needed to get the mount/dismount bar under the bead when removing the tire. The wheel can turn when clamped in the machine but this can be prevented with a heavy strap around one of the wheel's ‘spokes' and one of the arms of the machine. I used a piece of rope wound twice and tied off with a simple granny knot. Alternatively, you can use a piece of wood dropped down between cast spokes to hold the wheel still. More serious is the fact that the tire rim clamps slide on arms and can be pinned every 2â€. My wheel was not centered and I had to fiddle with the overhead arm to drop the rod through the axle hole. This can be remedied by drilling additional holes. The rod is too large to fit through the rear wheel's center so more work was needed - i.e. a smaller diameter rod.

In short, the HFTC will do the job, but it takes some tuning and a number of expensive mods. (To be fair, said or similar mods/accessories are needed with other tire changers boosting their price).

I suggest you search this website for my other post titled Tire Changing - First Time. More than a few guys have chimed in and what they say was helpful and valuable.

Before you change your first tire, I suggest you watch someone who is experienced change at least one. It will probably not go as smoothly until you have done this a few times.


https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?160328-Tire-Changing-First-time&highlight=
 

T_C

Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
4,341
Location
St. Louis, MO
Bike
2005 St1300
STOC #
8568
Interesting take on it. While I can't find much fault with reality the perspective may be a bit misplaced.

If you were starting from scratch you may have to buy everything. If you are a semi-practicing weekend mechanic you may already be ready to be there.

I didn't have to buy a strap to hold the wheel from spinning, I have dozens from hauling things on trailers, kayaks od backpacks.
I did buy the mojo-bar, but for the blocks, I have plenty of scrap material.
I did not re-drill to reposition the arm clamps.

The central arm drop rod is too big for the ST1300, but other bikes work. A replacement rod cost me $4 and I have a dual size set-up now.

I haven't heard of fitment issues between the pieces before, but I will agree some of them are built like a mudpie. Mine had the top collar soldered on instead of welded. Absolutely no penetration in the joint and it snapped on first use.

Yep you get what you pay for. It's really cheap for the price, it needs a few mods, but combine the cheap price with a little mulit-purpose practicality and it's a great deal.

I spent $165 on mine and some personal time/labor. It's saved me twice that in fees at tire change places so far. I can do my bike, my trailers and my other vehicles. Laissez les bons temps rouler!!
 
OP
OP
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,110
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
Interesting take on it. While I can't find much fault with reality the perspective may be a bit misplaced.

If you were starting from scratch you may have to buy everything. If you are a semi-practicing weekend mechanic you may already be ready to be there.
A P.S. is in order here. I bought the HF changer and MC attachment for about $100 after looking all over the internet for other tire changers. This was not a casual purchase, but it was the first time I've tried to change my own tires. I made the Mojo Blocks myself out of a chunk of nylon or HDPE that was used as a guide at a factory that does steel wire drawing (when worn, it hits the trash and I rescued it). I had the rope to tie the wheel to the tire changer's arm (as well as 2x4's). I bought a NoMar bar, it came with lube though I could have mixed my own out of Murphy's Oil Soap - which I have. I also bought the yellow thing. I had Irwin clamps, wood blocks, and a pair of tire irons that were initially rusty, but were sanded and polished and put to good use to persuade the bead to go where it belonged. My point and perspective is to give prospective purchasers of the HFTC a good idea of what to expect with this tool. Would I buy one again? Yes! A NoMar is simply too expensive for the use I will make of the machine. And Uncle Phil's new toy is for those who change more tires in a year than I will in a decade.
 

Kevin_56

Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
2,824
Age
67
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
Bike
20 R1250RT
STOC #
6495
And Uncle Phil's new toy is for those who change more tires in a year than I will in a decade.
Or if you live near the center of Wisconsin, have your tires shipped to Pardeeville (Mary-Anne) and have Steve show you how his works.

I do have a HF set up that I have used many times. Made my own rim locating spools, NO-MAR bar and a tie down strap to keep the wheel from turning while using the bar. Having excess bar stock laying around at my last work place I made bars that slide through the bearings of the wheel and rotate around that with the mount/dismount bar. The overhead unit is sitting in the corner. Never have to worry about starting the process with the bar in the right location. Money well spent to change tires on my schedule and not pay someone else.
 

T_C

Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
4,341
Location
St. Louis, MO
Bike
2005 St1300
STOC #
8568
Having excess bar stock laying around at my last work place I made bars that slide through the bearings of the wheel and rotate around that with the mount/dismount bar. The overhead unit is sitting in the corner. Never have to worry about starting the process with the bar in the right location.
Pictures? Dimensions? 27 8x10 color glossy photos?
If you would please, sir.
 
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
129
Location
Minneapolis, mn
The HF changer is a good cheap base to save some time making one from scratch.... Here's my modifications and bought the No-Mar tips and made my own bar... Also bought a bolt for center post, reduced it (on lathe) so bar would slide on it and through rim and don't need any overhead support... Also raised the position of where it grabs the rim so when changing tires on belt driven bikes I can have belt pulley facing down.
3.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,110
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
The HF changer is a good cheap base to save some time making one from scratch....
Someone looks like one heck of a good welder. Do I see additional holes in the 'Y' arms? (just kidding - going to mod my HFTC the same way.)
Did you cut a piece of pipe in half for the wheel 'grippers'? Do they scratch the aluminum wheels?

Pictures? Dimensions? 27 8x10 color glossy photos?
If you would please, sir.
Kevin took a 2" diameter bar and turned it down in a lathe to .960 (or was that .985?) for about 6", he told me. The smaller diameter fits through the wheel bearing of the front wheel. He has no pictures. Since this sort of machine work is beyond me, I did not pursue it. However, I am going to check the inside diameters of the front and rear wheel bearings and get a steel rod that will fit through both, and drop it down the HF central hole and eliminate the overhead arm.
 
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
129
Location
Minneapolis, mn
Additional holes? yes, until I modify it so each arm can be adjusted independently... "half" pipe, yes.... I did use a piece of rubber to protect the rim. I'll be gluing the pieces in (Cut from inner tube) for next time...


Someone looks like one heck of a good welder. Do I see additional holes in the 'Y' arms? (just kidding - going to mod my HFTC the same way.)
Did you cut a piece of pipe in half for the wheel 'grippers'? Do they scratch the aluminum wheels?
 

Kevin_56

Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
2,824
Age
67
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
Bike
20 R1250RT
STOC #
6495
20171001_131727.jpg

I used 1.5" x 22." Long bar stock. Turned one @ .980 diameter and the second one @ .780 diameter. These are the axle measurements.

One nice thing about making and using these rods, I DO NOT have to move the holding block on the arms. These shafts are always centered.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Dec 27, 2004
Messages
829
Location
Medina, Tennessee
Bike
2021 Tracer 9GT
STOC #
375
I have the old style HF changer with Mojo blocks, a Wicko lever, and a NoMar "yellow thing". I have changed hundreds of tires on it over the years. Some are easy, some are horrible.
Bridgestones, as a rule, are the worst.
The worst combination I have ever encountered is a BT 016 mounted/dismounted on the rear wheel of a Ducati Hypermotard with Marizocci wheels. I had to cut the old tire off and it took two of us to get a replacement mounted.
 

docw1

Bill Rankin
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Messages
1,255
Location
Muscatine, IA
Bike
2012 ST1300A
STOC #
4332
I'm not sure what the fuss is all about. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but do you need a tight-fitting bar in the axle? I use a bar, I think came with the HF changer and it fits loosely through the axle hole and allows for a little misalignment but all you need it for is as a lever for the mount/dismount bar.
 

Attachments

Kevin_56

Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
2,824
Age
67
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
Bike
20 R1250RT
STOC #
6495
I'm not sure what the fuss is all about. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but do you need a tight-fitting bar in the axle? I use a bar, I think came with the HF changer and it fits loosely through the axle hole and allows for a little misalignment but all you need it for is as a lever for the mount/dismount bar.
You do not need one, but when you are making one from scratch, why not make it a nice fit. Less slop makes the whole adventure a little less adventuresome. I hated that overhead arm and got rid of it, my way. Isn't that a song?
 

docw1

Bill Rankin
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Messages
1,255
Location
Muscatine, IA
Bike
2012 ST1300A
STOC #
4332
Isn't the overhead arm used mainly for car tires? I thought the overhead arm was removed when the motorcycle attachment was put on, but it's been a few years and I forge things.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,250
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
The main purpose for the overhead arm is to hold the top of the rod that goes through the axle 'hole'. I just always left mine unbolted (worked fine that way) so I could easily remove it to get the old tire off and the new tire on. I got two 'center' rods with my HF changer and never had a problem.
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
92
Age
76
Location
Fort Myers FL & Elkhorn WI
Bike
2007 ST1300
I've used mine for many years. Initially I used the bar to remove the old tire and mount the new but seemed like a huge pain in the butt with the slipping and all. Now days I just clamp the wheel in the changer and use tire irons to remove and install the tire. Seems easier to me.
 
OP
OP
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,110
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
I'm not sure what the fuss is all about. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but do you need a tight-fitting bar in the axle? I use a bar, I think came with the HF changer and it fits loosely through the axle hole and allows for a little misalignment but all you need it for is as a lever for the mount/dismount bar.
The tire changer I just bought comes with a bar (actually piece of tubing or pipe) with a short threaded plug welded to one end. The threaded end screws into the hole on top of the changer (center of 'Y'), but the pipe is too big to fit through the hole in your wheel bearings.

I agree w/ Kevin. I generally don't like adventures while wrenching.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,250
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
The tire changer I just bought comes with a bar (actually piece of tubing or pipe) with a short threaded plug welded to one end. The threaded end screws into the hole on top of the changer (center of 'Y'), but the pipe is too big to fit through the hole in your wheel bearings.

I agree w/ Kevin. I generally don't like adventures while wrenching.
That's a big change from the 'original' one that I have for sale.
 
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
129
Location
Minneapolis, mn
I found a bolt that would screw into this. Turned in smaller (on lathe) so it stick up an inch or so then found a pipe that was small enough to fit through rim and over this bolt.....
4_DSCN2799.jpg

The tire changer I just bought comes with a bar (actually piece of tubing or pipe) with a short threaded plug welded to one end. The threaded end screws into the hole on top of the changer (center of 'Y'), but the pipe is too big to fit through the hole in your wheel bearings.

I agree w/ Kevin. I generally don't like adventures while wrenching.
 

T_C

Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
4,341
Location
St. Louis, MO
Bike
2005 St1300
STOC #
8568
I found a bolt that would screw into this. Turned in smaller (on lathe) so it stick up an inch or so then found a pipe that was small enough to fit through rim and over this bolt.....
4_DSCN2799.jpg
There is a thread with HF tire changer mods.

Lacking a welder, welding skills and the center bar being too big for the ST wheels. I cut it about 2" up from the threads. Then to a local farm store or steel supplier and acquire a piece of 3/4" steel round rod 2' long. You can then screw the lower 2" piece into the threads and insert the 3/4" rod through the upper arm and the wheel. If you change another wheel and you want the larger diameter of the original bar just slip it over the top of the 3/4 rod.
2218.jpg
 
Top Bottom