I admit it. I'm intimidated by maintenance issues on my 1300 unlike any other bike or car I've owned. I'm not a newby - I've been wrenching for almost 50 years - but never on anything as packed or modern as this beast. My most recent problems will serve as an example.
One fork seal was leaking, and I've not been happy with the compliance of the shocks, so I decided to install Gold Valves at the same time as the seal replacement. I was going to wait until winter, but the oil was approaching the brake calipers so I decided to do the work now. Two recent threads set the stage. The first described major trouble loosening the fork caps, and the second stuck screws at the bottom of the fork leg. Neither of these were evident on my bike - the caps were almost hand tight and the bottom bolts holding the fork cartridge broke loose cleanly and unscrewed easily. Installing longer spacers (+1/2") was a major deal, however. My Honda fork oil behaved like liquid Helium - it climbed the walls of the fork tube and coated the spacers just before I grabbed them trying to compress the spring and slip a slotted piece of metal under the rod's nut.
That done, I proceeded on to the next issue - a classic coolant leak. Problem #1 was removing the radiator. My front calipers were supported by wire looped over the mirrors - and I was too inexperienced to know that if you tilt the bottom of the rad forward it slips off the right hand pin easy as pie - and of course I did not want to disturb the calipers which were in the way. If you don't tilt the radiator, a fan bracket hits either the right hand frame or a fuel distribution block making removal a real problem. Problem #2 was the rest of my plan, which was to change all of the thermostat hoses (preventive maint) and the stat itself. Sorry guys, while this can probably be done from the front without removing the fuel tank, air box and throttle bodies, I took Bob's advice and just tightened the hose clamp on the leaking hose and discovered how easy it was to replace the radiator when it is done correctly. Using Mark's suggested Breeze Industrial clamps will make this job even more exciting. The OEM clamps have the tightening screw facing forward with all of them accessible from the front. The aftermarket clamps are much larger and will require fiddling to position them so that one can revisit the scene of the crime later and check the tightness (if needed). In a couple of years (maybe 3) I'll consider pulling everything and replacing all the hoses from above. NOT looking forward to this at all.
Next was the fuel tank hoses. At seven years, I thought replacing them would be a good idea. Only problem here was removing all the hoses from the tank without scratching it. Of course, the smaller hose is not stocked by auto stores in the same OD, and the larger size that IS stocked will not accept the OEM spring clamp. Fortunately, NAPA had the right size clamps (last packet of assorted sizes), and assembly went smoothly. Except of course for the front seat adjust mechanism. All 4 bolt holes would not align correctly, and I eventually cross threaded one of them. I'll buy a new bolt later and a tap and chase the threads this winter. Rhetorical question - how does Honda get that metal clip on their hose clamps?
Filling the preload went smoothly - but I've done this before and my banjo bolt was already marked with yellow paint.
The bike will be together this weekend, and there were no insurmountable problems. The number of smaller issues however, wore me down, and I don't look forward to any major projects this winter. Is the intimidation factor rational? Of course not, but neither is claustrophobia or fear of heights. I can, however, deal with all of these issues.
One fork seal was leaking, and I've not been happy with the compliance of the shocks, so I decided to install Gold Valves at the same time as the seal replacement. I was going to wait until winter, but the oil was approaching the brake calipers so I decided to do the work now. Two recent threads set the stage. The first described major trouble loosening the fork caps, and the second stuck screws at the bottom of the fork leg. Neither of these were evident on my bike - the caps were almost hand tight and the bottom bolts holding the fork cartridge broke loose cleanly and unscrewed easily. Installing longer spacers (+1/2") was a major deal, however. My Honda fork oil behaved like liquid Helium - it climbed the walls of the fork tube and coated the spacers just before I grabbed them trying to compress the spring and slip a slotted piece of metal under the rod's nut.
That done, I proceeded on to the next issue - a classic coolant leak. Problem #1 was removing the radiator. My front calipers were supported by wire looped over the mirrors - and I was too inexperienced to know that if you tilt the bottom of the rad forward it slips off the right hand pin easy as pie - and of course I did not want to disturb the calipers which were in the way. If you don't tilt the radiator, a fan bracket hits either the right hand frame or a fuel distribution block making removal a real problem. Problem #2 was the rest of my plan, which was to change all of the thermostat hoses (preventive maint) and the stat itself. Sorry guys, while this can probably be done from the front without removing the fuel tank, air box and throttle bodies, I took Bob's advice and just tightened the hose clamp on the leaking hose and discovered how easy it was to replace the radiator when it is done correctly. Using Mark's suggested Breeze Industrial clamps will make this job even more exciting. The OEM clamps have the tightening screw facing forward with all of them accessible from the front. The aftermarket clamps are much larger and will require fiddling to position them so that one can revisit the scene of the crime later and check the tightness (if needed). In a couple of years (maybe 3) I'll consider pulling everything and replacing all the hoses from above. NOT looking forward to this at all.
Next was the fuel tank hoses. At seven years, I thought replacing them would be a good idea. Only problem here was removing all the hoses from the tank without scratching it. Of course, the smaller hose is not stocked by auto stores in the same OD, and the larger size that IS stocked will not accept the OEM spring clamp. Fortunately, NAPA had the right size clamps (last packet of assorted sizes), and assembly went smoothly. Except of course for the front seat adjust mechanism. All 4 bolt holes would not align correctly, and I eventually cross threaded one of them. I'll buy a new bolt later and a tap and chase the threads this winter. Rhetorical question - how does Honda get that metal clip on their hose clamps?
Filling the preload went smoothly - but I've done this before and my banjo bolt was already marked with yellow paint.
The bike will be together this weekend, and there were no insurmountable problems. The number of smaller issues however, wore me down, and I don't look forward to any major projects this winter. Is the intimidation factor rational? Of course not, but neither is claustrophobia or fear of heights. I can, however, deal with all of these issues.
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I don't think I've ever had a maintenance task that went as smoothly as I would have hoped, usually due to operator error. :lol: With shop manual in hand and all the info available here on ST-Owners I don't feel intimidated anymore, usually nervous before I get stuck in, but generally confident I can perform any maintenance on my STeed, given the right tools. So far that includes all the fluid changes, thermostat replacement, valve check and adjustment, rear shock removal and replacement and brake pad replacement, front and rear. Next up is a front suspension rebuild with new springs, bushings and seals and a starter valve synch with my new Carbtune kit my wife bought me for my birthday. 
