I quote from my 2003-2011 Honda Service Manual, pg 15-15 under Front Wheel Removal: "Support the motorcycle securely using a safety stand or a hoist". As to how to go about this? Imagination is great, simply wrap a hawser around those big ears and lift. Oh? the mirror covers pop off? Don't trouble me with details.....:bow1:
Intimidated by Maintenance for my ST1300
- Thread starter SMSW
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...or safety stand."
Most people would use the lift or safety stand option the SM mentions. It doesn't say just use a hoist but you could with a little thought although that's just more work that necessary for a wheel removal.
Blrfl
Natural Rider Enhancement
Several models (the ST included) ship with the front wheel detached, and dealers need a hoist to remove them from the crates. There's probably a list of things a Honda dealer should have, and a hoist is probably on it. For the ST, the hoisting points are the tipover bars and the rear grab handles.
I just put it up on the center stand and put a floor jack and 2x4 under the oil pan.
--Mark
I am seriously considering a field modification of my HF lift. Though, removing 6 bolts (or was it 7?) and tilting the fender was so easy that I'd be nuts to spend a couple of hours doing that, finding a replacement piece of steel and a way to anchor it to the lift so that the clamp and stop plate are functional.As long as you have the right hoist/lift!
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If you place each center stand foot on a piece of wood 5/8 to 3/4" thick you then can jack up under the engine, touch the rear wheel to the ground, and the front wheel rolls out from under the fender w/o moving or removing the fender at all.
I thought about it on my recent build of a HF lift table. But the front lifting arm is right under the front wheel and gas a crossbrace. I could reinforce the arm and cut the crossbrace, but is it worth it?
Reginald
cyclepoke
Huh, OK the joke is on me. For 10 years I've been using that figure and it's been working. For my poor mechanical knowledge base, what's wrong with it?
Most of the oil filters I have seen say to screw it on until first contact (rubber base gasket to engine surface) then another 3/4 to 1 turn. I'm not sure how this compares to 20 ft lbs. I think 20 is way too tight. Oil filters are thin steel and can crumple when overtorqued. Removing it can then be a nightmare (restricted access and a tenacious rubber gasket that won't let go). I've been there. If you undertighten the filter, you can lose oil - messy and a potential engine disaster, not to mention dangerous if it lubes the rear tire.
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That's why I like the K&N Oil Filters, that little nut on it sure makes it easy to get on and off!
Wait until that little nut cracks and/or tears off the filter and leaks your oil out, and see if you still like them!
I got rid of (1) K&N filter off the parts shelf....now, I just have about (4) left....Hey, you have that many ST's
I got rid of (1) K&N filter off the parts shelf....now, I just have about (4) left....Hey, you have that many ST's
- Joined
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- 12/04 ST 1300s
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- 5901
Well Larry, I've gone through probably a couple of dozen of those oil filters and haven't had one give me ANY problems yet!Wait until that little nut cracks and/or tears off the filter and leaks your oil out, and see if you still like them!
I got rid of (1) K&N filter off the parts shelf....now, I just have about (4) left....Hey, you have that many ST's
Yep. Never a problem. No wrench required...ever.