Stability and buffeting
- Thread starter Wolfheze
- Start date
On most, if not all, banjo fittings on hydraulic systems there is a crush washer between the bolt head and banjo fitting and one between the fitting and whatever it is attached to. Most would recommend replacing with new washers but I've had good luck with simply flipping them 180 degrees and reusing them.
Well I'm on the bike 5 days a week... not fiddling with knobs every day.
Here are some articles on "How to replace the Preload Adjuster fluid":
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?97117-Pre-Load-Fluid-Replacement-Follow-Up&highlight=preload+ajuster+fluid+replacement
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/content.php?269-ST1300-Pre-load-Fluid-Replacement
(see post #7)
8mm copper washer.
mlheck
Site Supporter
This really isn't that difficult of a task once you have done it for the first time.
When you disconnect the hose make sure it stays higher than the shock so that no fluid runs out of the hose. Fill the adjuster per the instruction linked to in prior post.
When bleeding the air out simply hold the adjustment unit higher than the shock, turn the knob in til resistance is felt then a 1/8 turn more. Hold adjuster unit with crescent wrench on the flats and loosen bolt that connects the hose. The fluid lose is minimal and any air left won't be noticeable.
The unit is designed so that there is always a little slack before resistance is felt. This is so the c-clip can be removed to take the unit completely apart. That is another story though.
If you can change plugs, then you can do this.
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Have refilled the preload adjuster or rather topped it up as it was far from empty. Having had a proper look with the side panels off the I could see the adjuster was working to some degree. Found that the adjuster was starting to have some resistance after 10 turns and by winding up to maximum resulted in around 5mm of preload on the spring. After refilling the reservoir resistance was felt within 1 click and the amount of preload was doubled to 10mm. After winding up the preload to 25 clicks,making adjustments to the rebound and checking tyre pressures it was time for a test ride. The results were good. I found the stability had improved considerably and the bike felt planted until into 3 figures when it started to feel slightly loose. I then tried it again without the top box, this time there was no weave right up to somewhere near the bikes top speed. I then took 5 clicks off the preload as I felt it was slightly too firm but this did result in a slight weave setting in particularly in dirty air but nothing like before. From now on the top box will stay off unless it's really needed. The bike now turns in nicely and holds a line much better than before and dosent wallow at all through fast sweepers Certainly feels more nimble and fun to ride. Have to say thanks for the advice and the links , the job itself was fairly straightforward apart from having the wrong crush washers (have reused the old ones). I did wonder how someone had managed to squeeze the adjuster complete with knob between the shock and the battery box. Damn sure I couldn't.
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