Wiring from horn PB to horn

Without removing the "tupperware" I think you're out of luck. I would suggest, however, that instead of wiring directly to the switch that you add a relay off the horn switch so that it activates both, and thus possibly avoid burning out your horn switch.

I think you can pull the plastic in front of the radiator and easily reach the horn

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I haven't looked at the horn Push Button (?) when adding my FIAMM. Previous PBs on my bikes have been a SPST NO momentary PB. Does it complete a ground leg (-) or power leg (12+) of the circuit. Somebody knows or a quick check with a DMM would tell you.

If it was the latter you could probably run one wire from the one side of the opener's button to the corresponding side of the horn button in the handlebar housing.

If it's the former your could run a wire from the hot side of the opener's button to switched 12+ pretty much anywhere on the bike and a wire from the (-) of the opener to the open side of the horn button again in the housing.

I don't think a relay would be necessary. If there were any isolation required that might be handled with just a diode or two.

Just a WAG on my part. The above might just set off a catastrophic exothermic reaction. Or not.

The horn push button is on the + side of the power. looks like the light green wire would be the one you want. Check it with a volt meter to frame ground. No relay. The dark green wire is ground on the horn.

refer to link:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQZEJxZzdrQXhLcDA/edit?pli=1

ST Gui said:

I haven't looked at the horn Push Button (?) when adding my FIAMM. Previous PBs on my bikes have been a SPST NO momentary PB. Does it complete a ground leg (-) or power leg (12+) of the circuit. Somebody knows or a quick check with a DMM would tell you.

If it was the latter you could probably run one wire from the one side of the opener's button to the corresponding side of the horn button in the handlebar housing.

If it's the former your could run a wire from the hot side of the opener's button to switched 12+ pretty much anywhere on the bike and a wire from the (-) of the opener to the open side of the horn button again in the housing.

I don't think a relay would be necessary. If there were any isolation required that might be handled with just a diode or two.

Just a WAG on my part. The above might just set off a catastrophic exothermic reaction. Or not.

Click to expand...

I think this was another case of CRS. It occurred to me this morning that I have an easy way to trigger my garage door opener without using the horn circuit. Several months ago I connected a lead to the switched side of the starter relay that I can use to jump start the bike in case of a weak battery that won't crank the engine. All I need to do is connect the + side of the garage door remote to the same post on the relay and the garage door will open the instant that I push the starter button in the garage. Once I am out of the garage and ready to leave, all I'll need to do is a quick jab at the starter button with the bike in neutral and the door will descend. When I return home, a push on the starter button while the clutch is disengaged will raise the door! I'll try that this evening to verify that it will work. The only problem I can envision is the voltage drop at the battery with the starter engaged may be enough to prevent the door opener from functioning. If that is the case, a second jab at the button with no load on the starter should work. I'll post the result later ...

Does your garage door opener run on 12 volts? Most of the one's I've seen use a single battery at 1.5 to 3 volts.

SMSW said:

Does your garage door opener run on 12 volts? Most of the one's I've seen use a single battery at 1.5 to 3 volts.

Click to expand...

Yes, the door opener that I have is a Genie that I got from Uncle Phil a few years ago. I don't think they make them any more, but you may still be able to get them from EBay. I don't know offhand what the model no. or part no is, but may be able to find it and post it here. I haven't yet replaced the RH side cover and seats yet, so I'll tahe a look in the morning before I do. I just completed the mod a few minutes ago, works like a charm.

The door opener is just above center in the attached photo, just ahead of the rear fender. The tie wrap on it holds the open/close button depressed. The red wire coming from it goes directly to the switched side of the starter relay (near the lower left in the photo, just aft of the battery). The larger gauge red wire going to the relay is directly from the battery to the unswitched side (hot all the time). The white wire from the door opener goes directly to the - post on the battery. BTW, I did temporarily replace the front seat to insure that there is no interference problem from the position of the opener - everything looks good.

SMSW said:

Does your garage door opener run on 12 volts? Most of the one's I've seen use a single battery at 1.5 to 3 volts.

Click to expand...

Here's what I found on the web: http://www.genie-garage-opener.com/genie-gic-3-garage-door-opener-3-button-intellicode-remote-same-as-git-3-and-acsctg-type-3.html
It will only work with Genie Intellicode openers. Note that it's no longer available from Genie, but I've seen them on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genie-Intellicode-Model-ACSCTG-Type-3-Garage-Door-Opener-Remote-with-Visor-Clip-/202077854069?hash=item2f0cc75975:g:UhsAAOSwzilZ3LG3 I think this one would work also, but not sure if it has a 12V battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genie-Intellicode-Model-ACSCTG-Type-1-Garage-Door-Opener-Remote-/122743283662?

Well, since you have not fried the opener, I guess all is well. You might put a fuse in the + lead from the starter relay. The opener will draw almost nothing but should it burn out it might short to ground with exciting results next time you hit the starter button.

I've successfully used the opener for a few years now with no problem, connected to the headlight high beam relay. It worked fine with no problem, even when continuously powered for considerable lengths of time when riding with the high beams on. Unfortunately, I disconnected it from the relay recently while chasing down a problem with the headlights, and was unable to reconnect it so gave up in frustration and decided to look for a different way to trigger it. I'm really not concerned about frying it, since it has worked fine up to this point and will now only have power applied momentarily (when the starter is engaged). Since it was designed to work with a 12V battery from the start, I teel confident that it will work fine for as long as I'll need it.

Don B said:

everything looks good.

Click to expand...

Good to hear. And I like that better than using the horn to open the door. I've got a much smaller 12V opener that I've considered modding for mounting on the bike.

I may just use some 3M industrial hook-n-loop stuff temporarily and a pushbutton if I ever get 'round to a permanent solution.

This may be a simpler option. I have something similar on my bike keyring for my Chamberlain garage door opener: AMAZON

But this is the solution you really need:

YOUTUBE

I want one of those!!

I have a remote control similar to the one from Amazon, used to be Velcro attached to the inside of the RH fairing pocket. That didn't work well for me since it required me to stop in the driveway and remove my throttle hand from the grip to operate the door opener. A remote on the key ring also won't work for me, since I never put a key ring on my MC ignition key. The solution that would work for me is the one in the YouTube video, especially if the opener is a good cook.

SMSW said:

Well, since you have not fried the opener, I guess all is well. You might put a fuse in the + lead from the starter relay. The opener will draw almost nothing but should it burn out it might short to ground with exciting results next time you hit the starter button.

Click to expand...

I think the fused lead is an excellent idea for an extra precaution, and is at the top of my priority list for my next mod. Had an interesting experience yesterday afternoon when I took the ST out of the garage for the first time since my latest mod. I cranked up the bike in the garage and the door raised as expected. Took the bike off the CS and backed out to the driveway, hit the starter button and the door lowers, as expected. I often leave the side stand deployed to give a little bit of an extra margin of safety while I'm duck-walking the bike backwards, just in case I momentarily lose my footing. I had forgotten to retract the stand before dropping it into 1st - bike dies, I retract the stand, restart the bike, door raises again. I hope no one was watching.

Question purely out of curiosity. Instead of operating your opener from an existing OEM switch that already serves a dedicated function, why not add a separate push-button for the opener so that you are not operating something on the bike every time you command the opener?

Andrew Shadow said:

add a separate push-button for the opener

Click to expand...

This is my plan if I ever get round to it. I do have the NO PB.

Andrew Shadow said:

Question purely out of curiosity. Instead of operating your opener from an existing OEM switch that already serves a dedicated function, why not add a separate push-button for the opener so that you are not operating something on the bike every time you command the opener?

Click to expand...

The mod that I did for installing my garage door opener doesn't do either of the things you implied, with the exception of the quick hit on the start button when the engine is already running. The starter doesn't draw much current if it has no load on it, and the current draw from the opener is nearly zilch. Neither the starter nor the door remote get power directly from the start button. It was a very easy installation since I didn't have to remove any Tupperware to install wiring and a weather proof PB to get the desired result. All of the above answer your question: "why not add a separate push-button for the opener". I don't know if you're aware of it or not, but the Motus has electronic cruise control included as standard equipment, but there are no push buttons, rocker switches or anything else on the instrument panel or handlebars to give it away. Guess how the rider sets the CC?

I've been using the 12v Genies hooked to my high beam circuit for years. I just soldered a wire across the 'button' circuit so when it gets power it fires.