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Thread: FI code 26

  1. #1
    Skip skipcurt's Avatar
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    FI code 26

    Hey all, so on my way to ArkanSToc a few weeks ago my FI light came on about half way there and pretty much stayed on for the entire trip. When I'd shut off the bike it would come back on anywhere from 2 minutes to 20 minutes to 45 minutes. So I get back home and can't get the light to come back on...until today. I was able to determine it was a code 26 by being in neutral and putting the side stand down. So now I'm home and have got the plastics off and the wiring to each sensor looks fine. Not melted from what I can see. Which isn't much. So now I'm trying to get the wiring connector disconnected and it won't come off. Does it just pull off or twist off or squeeze/pull?

    The bike is an '04 1300 with 78K.

    Skip

    "The less people you chill with, the less BS you deal with"
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  2. #2
    Site Supporter DavidR8's Avatar
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    Re: FI code 26

    I have the least experience with the connectors however what I have learned is that the little locking tabs can be difficult to move such that the connection can be separated.
    Iíve used a small bladed screwdriver to put pressure on the locking tab. Not trying to lever it open, just more direct pressure than by finger pressure alone.


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  3. #3
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    Re: FI code 26

    Ok. So I figured out the connector. There’s a small tab on the bottom that you push up and pull out. Comes right off.

    Now I don’t know what to do now that I’m here.

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  4. #4
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    Re: FI code 26

    So I think Iíve found the culprit. At the very end of the wire where it attaches to the knock sensor connector there is exposed wire. Does anyone know if the blue connector inside the black housing will detach from the housing if I pull it out?

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 53E262DC-A470-4EEB-8944-5BA6B83D1A23.jpg   846F2D2C-5B6A-4AB7-B6C2-A8B2D9395D32.jpg  
    Last edited by skipcurt; 10-07-2017 at 01:18 PM.

  5. #5
    John Heath jfheath's Avatar
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    Re: FI code 26

    Quote Originally Posted by skipcurt View Post
    So I think Iíve found the culprit. At the very end of the wire where it attaches to the knock sensor connector there is exposed wire. Does anyone know if the blue connector inside the black housing will detach from the housing if I pull it out?
    I don't know - I checked remains of an old harness, but it didn't have the connector you want.

    Do either of these help ?

    Link 1

    Link 2 - Post #3 has a photo of the parts separated - but the comment indicates that it is broken.

  6. #6
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    Re: FI code 26

    Link 1 looks to be the correct connector. I'm currently reading on another forum where a guy just clipped it off and put a new spade on it but I haven't gotten far enough yet to tell if it worked long term.

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  7. #7
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    Re: FI code 26

    Before you do anything, check first that there's continuity between the sensor and ECM ends of the harness, because the exposed wire may not be the problem. Check both sides, because there have been instances where the docs and the wiring didn't match up.

    The most common ECM failure so far has been when the circuit connecting one of the knock sensors to the computer quits working. Rule everything else out first, obviously.

    --Mark
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  8. #8
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    Re: FI code 26

    Quote Originally Posted by Blrfl View Post
    Before you do anything, check first that there's continuity between the sensor and ECM ends of the harness, because the exposed wire may not be the problem. Check both sides, because there have been instances where the docs and the wiring didn't match up.

    The most common ECM failure so far has been when the circuit connecting one of the knock sensors to the computer quits working. Rule everything else out first, obviously.

    --Mark
    I really hate saying this but I have no clue how to do that or even use a multimeter. Electrics are like reading Chinese for me. I have a cheap Harbor Freight Centech 7 function unit that I've never used because I don't know how.

    I'm either in need of a step by step tutorial or a local person to swing by for a tech moment.

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  9. #9

    Re: FI code 26

    Continuity is close to zero ohms.

    1 Set the gauge to ohms, any scale will work for continuity.
    2 Touch the leads together to insure you get close to a zero reading.
    3 Touch one lead to either end of the connector being sure to make contact with the metal surface ,( but do not put too much pressure so you don't enlarge the hole_)
    4 Touch the other meter lead to the other end of the wire under test .

    if it has continuity , the reading will be the same or very close to the reading in step 2 , if no continuity the reading will be "1" which indicates more ohms than the scale you are on, which for a continuity test means it is an open circuit.
    Last edited by v8-7; 10-07-2017 at 07:09 PM.

  10. #10
    Site Supporter Don B's Avatar
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    Re: FI code 26

    Quote Originally Posted by v8-7 View Post
    Continuity is close to zero ohms.

    1 Set the gauge to ohms, any scale will work for continuity.
    2 Touch the leads together to insure you get close to a zero reading.
    3 Touch one lead to either end of the connector being sure to make contact with the metal surface ,( but do not put too much pressure so you don't enlarge the hole_)
    4 Touch the other meter lead to the other end of the wire under test .

    if it has continuity , the reading will be the same or very close to the reading in step 2 , if no continuity the reading will be "1" which indicates more ohms than the scale you are on, which for a continuity test means it is an open circuit.
    All the above is true, but you also want to check to insure there is no continuity from either end to ground (i.e. a short to ground). Ideally, the meter reading should indicate infinity in this check.

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