FI code 26

skipcurt

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Hey all, so on my way to ArkanSToc a few weeks ago my FI light came on about half way there and pretty much stayed on for the entire trip. When I'd shut off the bike it would come back on anywhere from 2 minutes to 20 minutes to 45 minutes. So I get back home and can't get the light to come back on...until today. I was able to determine it was a code 26 by being in neutral and putting the side stand down. So now I'm home and have got the plastics off and the wiring to each sensor looks fine. Not melted from what I can see. Which isn't much. So now I'm trying to get the wiring connector disconnected and it won't come off. Does it just pull off or twist off or squeeze/pull?

The bike is an '04 1300 with 78K.

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DavidR8

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I have the least experience with the connectors however what I have learned is that the little locking tabs can be difficult to move such that the connection can be separated.
I've used a small bladed screwdriver to put pressure on the locking tab. Not trying to lever it open, just more direct pressure than by finger pressure alone.


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skipcurt

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Ok. So I figured out the connector. There’s a small tab on the bottom that you push up and pull out. Comes right off.

Now I don’t know what to do now that I’m here.

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skipcurt

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So I think I've found the culprit. At the very end of the wire where it attaches to the knock sensor connector there is exposed wire. Does anyone know if the blue connector inside the black housing will detach from the housing if I pull it out?

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jfheath

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So I think I've found the culprit. At the very end of the wire where it attaches to the knock sensor connector there is exposed wire. Does anyone know if the blue connector inside the black housing will detach from the housing if I pull it out?
I don't know - I checked remains of an old harness, but it didn't have the connector you want.

Do either of these help ?

Link 1

Link 2 - Post #3 has a photo of the parts separated - but the comment indicates that it is broken.
 
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skipcurt

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Link 1 looks to be the correct connector. I'm currently reading on another forum where a guy just clipped it off and put a new spade on it but I haven't gotten far enough yet to tell if it worked long term.

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Blrfl

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Before you do anything, check first that there's continuity between the sensor and ECM ends of the harness, because the exposed wire may not be the problem. Check both sides, because there have been instances where the docs and the wiring didn't match up.

The most common ECM failure so far has been when the circuit connecting one of the knock sensors to the computer quits working. Rule everything else out first, obviously.

--Mark
 
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skipcurt

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Before you do anything, check first that there's continuity between the sensor and ECM ends of the harness, because the exposed wire may not be the problem. Check both sides, because there have been instances where the docs and the wiring didn't match up.

The most common ECM failure so far has been when the circuit connecting one of the knock sensors to the computer quits working. Rule everything else out first, obviously.

--Mark
I really hate saying this but I have no clue how to do that or even use a multimeter. Electrics are like reading Chinese for me. I have a cheap Harbor Freight Centech 7 function unit that I've never used because I don't know how.

I'm either in need of a step by step tutorial or a local person to swing by for a tech moment.

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v8-7

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Continuity is close to zero ohms.

1 Set the gauge to ohms, any scale will work for continuity.
2 Touch the leads together to insure you get close to a zero reading.
3 Touch one lead to either end of the connector being sure to make contact with the metal surface ,( but do not put too much pressure so you don't enlarge the hole_)
4 Touch the other meter lead to the other end of the wire under test .

if it has continuity , the reading will be the same or very close to the reading in step 2 , if no continuity the reading will be "1" which indicates more ohms than the scale you are on, which for a continuity test means it is an open circuit.
 
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Continuity is close to zero ohms.

1 Set the gauge to ohms, any scale will work for continuity.
2 Touch the leads together to insure you get close to a zero reading.
3 Touch one lead to either end of the connector being sure to make contact with the metal surface ,( but do not put too much pressure so you don't enlarge the hole_)
4 Touch the other meter lead to the other end of the wire under test .

if it has continuity , the reading will be the same or very close to the reading in step 2 , if no continuity the reading will be "1" which indicates more ohms than the scale you are on, which for a continuity test means it is an open circuit.
All the above is true, but you also want to check to insure there is no continuity from either end to ground (i.e. a short to ground). Ideally, the meter reading should indicate infinity in this check.
 
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Ensure you have both ends of the wire being tested disconnected and ignition OFF. Multimeters do not like voltage when checking resistance (ohms).
 
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:eek:4:
Thanks guys for the input. It's all quite overwhelming. I've felt many times that I knew more about wiring and circuitry. Hopefully I'll be able to coordinate something with someone local or if not I'll replace the connector and see if that eliminates the code.

I'm only 2.5 hrs from the upcoming BRG if anyone traveling to/from has any interest in a bed, meal and a little wiring work.

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jfheath

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Good luck with it Skip.

Mark's post #7 reminded me of something, so I went to my shop manual. I have a note that I have written underneath the fault code table, and an asterisk alongside codes 25 and 26.

I had written:

Code 25 & 26 and the wire colours in this manual may be the wrong way round for the left and right knock sensors. See the Wiki on st-owners if ever I need to check out these sensors.
 

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I really hate saying this but I have no clue how to do that or even use a multimeter. Electrics are like reading Chinese for me. I have a cheap Harbor Freight Centech 7 function unit that I've never used because I don't know how.
That's easy enough to fix.

All About Circuits has a free textbook that you can read online that covers more than you'll ever want to know. The first three chapters of Volume I are what you need to get started understanding the basics.

Once you're comfortable with the material in those chapters, SparkFun has a tutorial on using multimeters.

85% of troubleshooting things on motorcycles is making sure there's continuity (a functioning electrical path) between points; the rest is voltage or resistance measurements.

--Mark
 

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The connector definitely looks suspect for an intermittent issue.
 
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skipcurt

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Good luck with it Skip.

Mark's post #7 reminded me of something, so I went to my shop manual. I have a note that I have written underneath the fault code table, and an asterisk alongside codes 25 and 26.

I had written:

Code 25 & 26 and the wire colours in this manual may be the wrong way round for the left and right knock sensors. See the Wiki on st-owners if ever I need to check out these sensors.
I have read that the 25 & 26 codes are reversed. My left side does look fine but I (or someone) will check to verify continuity.

That's easy enough to fix.

All About Circuits has a free textbook that you can read online that covers more than you'll ever want to know. The first three chapters of Volume I are what you need to get started understanding the basics.

Once you're comfortable with the material in those chapters, SparkFun has a tutorial on using multimeters.

85% of troubleshooting things on motorcycles is making sure there's continuity (a functioning electrical path) between points; the rest is voltage or resistance measurements.

--Mark
So I've spent the better part of the morning reading up on how to use a multimeter. Even looked at the Sparkfun you mentioned Mark. The first thing I can attain is that this Centech unit is not like the tutorials so it's not apples to apples for my learning which makes it a bit tougher. Mine does not have a dedicated V- or a V w/wavy line . When I do some trial tests from the tutorials I can check continuity between the probes. When I go to check a 9v or AA battery I can't get any reading other than a 1. or -1. I will likely head out to today to get a real unit as I would like to learn this stuff and understand it better.

Skip, do you have an abs model or standard ?
I have the standard .
 
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I will have to go against the grain on this one, and suspect that the issues may be in the map sensor plumbing (5 way tee & lines).
The pictures that you posted are of the lower sub wiring harness, and those fittings are snapped into place, and are held by a plastic retainer tab, I don't think you'll have any luck trying to cut one off and Jerry Rig a spade connector onto it.
As stated in a prior response, that wire may not be your issue, as alot of the connectors on the harness have a small bit of wire exposed and showing, this does not mean its the issue your having.
The first thing I would do is to check and rule out all the free stuff (that does not require cutting wires lol).
You may want to go to the RAN or the MEMBERS list and look up some of the local members in your state (VINNY comes to mind) and get some help lifting the fuel tank, removing the air filter assembly, and replacing the lines and cleaning out the 5 way tee.
If this is clogged or dirty, it will throw random lights and sometimes (not always) codes that you can retrieve.
Good luck, let us know what you find.
Igofar
 
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skipcurt

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Vinny and I synced the throttle bodies and I'm about 99% sure we replaced the 5 way tee in Dec of 2014. Not saying it can't be that but what's the likeliness it clogged up in 3 yrs? I suppose a trip to Vinny's to investigate isn't a bad thing though.

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v8-7

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I am bringing a spare computer to the brg to test out on a known good ST1300.

Throwing the computer into a non-abs model should only take a few minutes.

If it works , we can throw it into your bike and see if that is your problem.
 
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