FI code 26

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skipcurt

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I am bringing a spare computer to the brg to test out on a known good ST1300.

Throwing the computer into a non-abs model should only take a few minutes.

If it works , we can throw it into your bike and see if that is your problem.
That would be an awesome test to see if the ECM is toast. The only day I can get up there would be Saturday. I have to be in Birmingham, AL on Friday. We should probably talk about schedules. I'll shoot you a PM.
 
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Have you already tried swapping the sensors?

If FI doesn't switch to displaying 25, you'll ascertain the fault is not with the sensor itself.
I have not. I don’t have the correct deep socket and don’t even know what size it needs to be. Anyone know? I saw on another post the size question was asked but never answered.
 

Blrfl

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So I've spent the better part of the morning reading up on how to use a multimeter. Even looked at the Sparkfun you mentioned Mark. The first thing I can attain is that this Centech unit is not like the tutorials so it's not apples to apples for my learning which makes it a bit tougher. Mine does not have a dedicated V- or a V w/wavy line .
It's close enough. If yours is the red one that I was able to find on the Intertubes, it just doesn't use the standard symbols. This might help clarify the parts you care about:

centech.jpg

--Mark
 
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Okay, so I performed a continuity test on both the left and right sensor wiring and I believe it is good. So I’m putting the rear end back together and I put the rear seat on to check it before entirely re-assembling and either there’s too much slack in the seat release cable or it jumped out of the slot in the seat lock. Now the rear seat is locked on. Great! Is there any way to manually unlock the rear seat?
 
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Crisis averted! About 45 minutes worth of turning the lower grab rail bolts about 1/8 of turn, flip over the open end wrench and repeat several hundred times while pushing up on the rear of the seat.

Not much fun trying to access the ECM! I hope my testing is correct. So at this point it can be either the connector, the sensor, the ECM or possibly even the 5 way tee.
 
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You've lost me somewhere unless I missed (or misinterpreted) a post. If you haven't yet got to the ECU to disconnect the wiring harness, how did you check the continuity? Also, did you check for continuity from each sensor to ground? There shouldn't be continuity there, if there is you have a short. Test and eliminate every possibility before you replace the ECU to check things out.
 

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Skip - did you do the first check in the shop manual ?
It says to put the bike on the centre stand, start the engine and hold the revs above 3900 rpm for at least 10 secs. If the MIL light doesn't blink then the system is normal - it was a temporary fault. Which might make Larry's suggestion of spurious error codes more likely.
(MIL = PGM-FI Self Diagnosis Malfunction Indicator Lamp)
 
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Skip - did you do the first check in the shop manual ?
It says to put the bike on the centre stand, start the engine and hold the revs above 3900 rpm for at least 10 secs. If the MIL light doesn't blink then the system is normal - it was a temporary fault. Which might make Larry's suggestion of spurious error codes more likely.
(MIL = PGM-FI Self Diagnosis Malfunction Indicator Lamp)
I have the same FI code 26 on my ST, have had it for quite a while but I can live with it until I decide to go after the problem. I can ride all day at an indicated 4000 rpm, between 70-75 mph indicated, and the FI light doesn't come on. If I even slightly exceed 4k on the tach for a few seconds - RED LIGHT! Cuts down considerably on the fun factor by not being able to use the best part of the power band, but now that I am growing older I can survive with a little bit less of that - at least for awhile.
Point is, don't rely on the 3900 rpm as stated in the SM as being the absolute best rpm to verify the problem. Run it up a little bit beyond 4k for 10 seconds or so to check out the FI code.
 
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All the above is true, but you also want to check to insure there is no continuity from either end to ground (i.e. a short to ground). Ideally, the meter reading should indicate infinity in this check.
You've lost me somewhere unless I missed (or misinterpreted) a post. If you haven't yet got to the ECU to disconnect the wiring harness, how did you check the continuity? Also, did you check for continuity from each sensor to ground? There shouldn't be continuity there, if there is you have a short. Test and eliminate every possibility before you replace the ECU to check things out.
I did not do the end to ground test. As I mentioned in original post I'm not very electrically gifted. Is that done by a continuity test also? Instead of testing connector to ECM it's connector to ground test & ECM to ground test? Is infinity a zero?

Skip - did you do the first check in the shop manual ?
It says to put the bike on the centre stand, start the engine and hold the revs above 3900 rpm for at least 10 secs. If the MIL light doesn't blink then the system is normal - it was a temporary fault. Which might make Larry's suggestion of spurious error codes more likely.
(MIL = PGM-FI Self Diagnosis Malfunction Indicator Lamp)
I have the same FI code 26 on my ST, have had it for quite a while but I can live with it until I decide to go after the problem. I can ride all day at an indicated 4000 rpm, between 70-75 mph indicated, and the FI light doesn't come on. If I even slightly exceed 4k on the tach for a few seconds - RED LIGHT! Cuts down considerably on the fun factor by not being able to use the best part of the power band, but now that I am growing older I can survive with a little bit less of that - at least for awhile.
Point is, don't rely on the 3900 rpm as stated in the SM as being the absolute best rpm to verify the problem. Run it up a little bit beyond 4k for 10 seconds or so to check out the FI code.
I didn't do this test yet. I was frustrated and tired last night after getting the rear seat back off that I needed a shower and a cocktail.
 
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I did not do the end to ground test. As I mentioned in original post I'm not very electrically gifted. Is that done by a continuity test also? Instead of testing connector to ECM it's connector to ground test & ECM to ground test? Is infinity a zero?
This is the check that I was referring to. Yes, it is performed the same way as a continuity check except that you are looking for NO continuity. Set your DMM on the highest resistance range available, short the meter leads together to verify the meter is working OK (zero ohms indicated), then separate the leads for the infinity indication on the meter. This indication may vary depending on the meter. On my el cheapo DMM it shows 1.0 on the 2M range. Next, connect either meter lead to one end of the wire being tested. Since the wire had good continuity when you checked it from end to end, it doesn't matter which end of the wire you connect the meter lead to for this check. Ideally, you want to either hold the meter lead without touching the metal portion of the probe, or else wear shop gloves while doing this test. When you then ground the other probe, the meter reading should not change. If it indicates between 0-1 ohm, the lead is shorted to ground somewhere.

EDIT: I just noticed part of your question was "ECM to ground test". DON'T DO THAT! The ECM itself must be isolated (disconnected) from the wiring going to the sensors or you may get all kinds of erroneous and/or inconclusive indications from your testing.
 
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I had same code a couple of months ago... when I pulled off the plug it was broken inside, obviously due to heat stress... I replaced the plug with new pins to make sure of good contact, and the FI light hasn't come back on...
I do have these plugs for sale, USD$10 plus postage, which includes new pins and seals...
Whether this will fix your problem or not, I couldn't say, but the connection needs to be good...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Okay, so I performed a continuity test on both the left and right sensor wiring and I believe it is good. So I'm putting the rear end back together and I put the rear seat on to check it before entirely re-assembling and either there's too much slack in the seat release cable or it jumped out of the slot in the seat lock. Now the rear seat is locked on. Great! Is there any way to manually unlock the rear seat?
To determine whether it's the knock sensor or not, just swap them around... both knock sensors wouldn't be faulty at the same time, so put the left in the right, and right in the left... if the fault follows the sensor, you will know what to do...


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These are the plugs I have... difficult to come by, but I have a few left... USD10 plus postage to wherever you are...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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skipcurt

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I had same code a couple of months ago... when I pulled off the plug it was broken inside, obviously due to heat stress... I replaced the plug with new pins to make sure of good contact, and the FI light hasn't come back on...
I do have these plugs for sale, USD$10 plus postage, which includes new pins and seals...
Whether this will fix your problem or not, I couldn't say, but the connection needs to be good...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does your new plug require you to snip the wire and solder? Today I bought a new knock sensor sub-wire from the local Honda car dealership for $8. This is what it looks like. I believe it would require the cut/solder method if I have to go that way.

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Does your new plug require you to snip the wire and solder? Today I bought a new knock sensor sub-wire from the local Honda car dealership for $8.

Skip
. use a heat shrink butt connector. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C26ZBMG/ref=asc_df_B01C26ZBMG5208245/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01C26ZBMG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167134905570&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8623521909281465917&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021609&hvtargid=pla-309859023103. that's what they look like pick them up a any parts store. crimp the wires in there and heat it up with a lighter till the plastic shrinks around the wire and seals it... very easy
 
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Does your new plug require you to snip the wire and solder? Today I bought a new knock sensor sub-wire from the local Honda car dealership for $8. This is what it looks like. I believe it would require the cut/solder method if I have to go that way.

Skip
You can do it two ways... either use the existing pin, which can be removed from the original plug using a very fine screw driver... I use a jeweller screw driver, had to grind it flat though, small enough to release the clip inside...
Or, you can snip the existing one off, and crimp the new one on... no need to solder... but you will need proper crimping pliers...
If that's too hard, you're welcome to send it to me and I will replace it for you... only problem is I'm in Australia, and might take a couple of weeks... but guarantee it will be right...


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Blrfl

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I recommend against soldering in automotive applications or anything else where there's vibration.

Solder bonds the strands in the wire together, which sounds like a good thing until you notice that the spot where the solder ends and the strands are free again becomes a stress point. It's better to have the strands free to move and be elastic as they need to.

--Mark
 
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I recommend against soldering in automotive applications or anything else where there's vibration.

Solder bonds the strands in the wire together, which sounds like a good thing until you notice that the spot where the solder ends and the strands are free again becomes a stress point. It's better to have the strands free to move and be elastic as they need to.

--Mark
10-4.
I believe I will go with the butt splice connector type that Al mentioned above.

Progress Report:
Tonight I performed the end/ground test and it was good. Thank you Don B for the phone call to clarify the procedure. This coming Sunday I may be able to perform an ECM swap/check from Stan (V8-7) if he can verify beforehand that it's functional while at the BRG. In the meantime I'm contemplating swapping out the right sensor connector since I picked up one today. Still praying it's not the ECM but if it is, then it is. Looked today on eBay and they had two stateside but not for an ‘04.

Skip
 
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10-4.
I believe I will go with the butt splice connector type that Al mentioned above.

Progress Report:
Tonight I performed the end/ground test and it was good. Thank you Don B for the phone call to clarify the procedure. This coming Sunday I may be able to perform an ECM swap/check from Stan (V8-7) if he can verify beforehand that it’s functional while at the BRG. In the meantime I’m contemplating swapping out the right sensor connector since I picked up one today. Still praying it’s not the ECM but if it is, then it is. Looked today on eBay and they had two stateside but not for an ‘04.

Skip
Skip, I think they are all the same from 03 to 07 or 08. Get the PN from the sticker on your ECM and check it against what you find on ebay. I did that at one time (researched it, didn't get the PN from my ECM), don't remember what I did with what I found, but it's easy enough to find on the net if you have the patience to do it.
 
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