1994 ST1100 Waterpump

New owner of 1994 ST1100, 33000 miles. Looks new, runs like new, no leaks of any fluids. Would like to ride it as it was intended. Long distance, cross country. So have been researching timing belt, coolant hoses, ect. replacements needed to continue it's legacy of rock solid performance. Have done this with many other bikes I've owned. Now I know 33000 miles is nothing for this bike, but going on 24 years on original parts does concern me. Just found out water pump is no longer supported. So asking a dangerous question, what is your opinion? Would you replace nothing and just ride till it breaks down, then have the finances to purchase a new ST1300 where ever that might occur? Replace everything I can except the discontinued water pump and ride with confidence because they never go bad at 33000 miles, and 24 years old makes no difference. Or something in between.

Thanks

I suggest you:

bikertucker said:

Replace everything I can except the discontinued water pump and ride with confidence because they never go bad at 33000 miles, and 24 years old makes no difference.

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And be sure to use a NON SILICATE antifreeze. Honda Type 2 is a good choice.

I would change the fluids, check brakes and tyres thoroughly and service if required.
Then I'd ride it some.
As long as you're not setting off on a trans continental adventure next week why complicate things, just enjoy.
FWIW.
Upt'North.

The main PM job would be to pull the carbs and replace the coolant hoses and elbows (plus new O-rings), and replace the carb boots. That's the area most likely to leave you stranded somewhere. The timing belts and pulleys seem to last forever so that's your call. I replaced mine a few years back but they all looked like new, which seems to be what everyone who changes those parts reports.

bikertucker said:

Just found out water pump is no longer supported.

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Are you sure about this? I found that concerning (since I have an 01), so I looked on hbhonda.com. They still have the water pump listed there.

You can use a later model's water pump. The main difference is that the newer pumps have no connections for the oil cooler that is located at the base of your oil filter. This has been done by several members here. Try looking at water pump threads in the ST 1100 Tech forum.

Funny...I have a 1994 ST and 33,300 as of my ride today (surprisingly cool here in SC near Myrtle Beach). Last December I swapped out all of the fluids (oil, coolant, brake, and clutch as well as the rear diff). I’ve inspected the belt via the access cover (belt was not dried out or cracking). My coolant pipes seemed nice and supple when checked last December. I agree it might be a good idea to swap out the rubber bits as others have said (but as I said, I don’t see a reason to do that now). As for my bike, as it runs perfectly, doesn’t leak, and all fluids have been changed (I used a silicate free coolant as well), I’d say just ride it and maintain it properly. These bikes are so over-engineered that other than the routine maintenance, they most likely need nothing extra. I may do the belts on the 94 and 00 at some point, but not just yet. I may recheck the belts via the access cover this winter but I don’t think I’ll be changing them soon. Everyone here will tell you it’s a very well designed belt and is good for 100K miles, despite the age

I found an used water pump on ebay, sold the ST and ne owner hasn't picked up rest of the parts. I bought it because my philosophy is that I rather have part on shelf in my garage than not be able to ride. especially if part is hard to find. I was going to change bearing and seal (I'm not even sure if it needs to be changed) on it but never did and sold the bike. I also have non OEM timing belt. What I'm saying is that if you think that when you change the belt you want to change the pump, which makes perfect sense, you can get it ready for when you need it.

Mark

Thanks for all your thoughts so far. All fluids had been replaced by PO to include brake and clutch fluids, new tire's, only 200 miles usage when purchased. Found out water pump no longer supported by Honda, while standing at the local Honda parts counter today. I did see reference to using a newer model water pump on this site, but it was , I think this will work comment. Will look more for the, I did it thread. This bike is pretty much stock, 28 amp charging system, original belt and hoses. Checked Ignition timing and found both marks off from optimum by about the width of a tooth on the timing belt.

Erdoc48 my odometer reads 33270 after ride this afternoon. You take care of the ocean side, I'll take care of the upstate. maximark, thanks for the waterpump offer. Could you pm me for cost including shipping. Kinda like spare parts for discontinued things myself.

Erdoc48 said:

My coolant pipes seemed nice and supple when checked last December. I agree it might be a good idea to swap out the rubber bits as others have said (but as I said, I don’t see a reason to do that now).

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The ones that will leave you stranded are under the carbs, not generally visible unless you pull the tank and look in the V of the engine. They swell over time due to the hot environment from the engine heat, and then will rupture along the length of the hose when they finally fail, dumping all your coolant in about 10-15 seconds or so. Those are pretty much guaranteed to fail if you wait long enough, and after about 15 years they are running on borrowed time.

dwalby said:

The ones that will leave you stranded are under the carbs, not generally visible unless you pull the tank and look in the V of the engine. They swell over time due to the hot environment from the engine heat, and then will rupture along the length of the hose when they finally fail, dumping all your coolant in about 10-15 seconds or so. Those are pretty much guaranteed to fail if you wait long enough, and after about 15 years they are running on borrowed time.

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This happened to me shortly after I purchased my 1100, and also after just replacing the coolant. At the time the bike had 41k miles. There was no sign of leakage prior. I suggest if you ever have the carbs off, go ahead and replace all the hoses and o-rings under there. Changing the carb boots at the same time is also a good idea.

Looks like a thumbs up for replacing hoses. The description of the ones under the carbs splitting are quite a convincing testimony. Will make a note to check carb boots also. From my study of o-rings under carbs are there just the 2 under each elbow? 91331-PC9-003 and water pipe seal 1ea 91315MT3-003.

RobbieAG said:

I suggest if you ever have the carbs off, go ahead and replace all the hoses and o-rings under there. Changing the carb boots at the same time is also a good idea.

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Since there's generally no reason you'll ever have the carbs off, you really can't wait until you have the carbs off. Pretty much every 1100 out there is 15+ years old, so they're all due for this maintenance if it hasn't been done already.

Mine blew out about 50-60 miles from home, and while it wasn't a major inconvenience, I did spend the rest of the day taking the train home and retrieving my bike on a trailer. After I did the repairs I realized how vulnerable this part of the cooling system is to failure, and since you never look under there you have no idea what condition those hoses are in.

Funny thing about the timing too, I very rarely take my bike beyond my 8 mile work commute, so I was never all that concerned about being stranded away from home. The day it failed I was on a ~80 mile commute to Irvine, which I've done 3 times in the last 7 years.

bikertucker said:

Looks like a thumbs up for replacing hoses. The description of the ones under the carbs splitting are quite a convincing testimony. Will make a note to check carb boots also. From my study of o-rings under carbs are there just the 2 under each elbow? 91331-PC9-003 and water pipe seal 1ea 91315MT3-003.

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You also will want to replace those elbows. They are made of pot metal and a number of repairs to hoses, where the elbows weren't replaced, ended soon after with cracked elbows. Elbows, o-rings and the two hoses. The water pipe seal seems to be less of a concern, but since you are in there, do it too.

The carb hose thing now sounds scary- I guess I should research that. Stupid question...other than removing the carbs, does the tank require removal as well?

bikertucker said:

Will make a note to check carb boots also.

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They're something like $8 each, just get them, the old ones will be too stiff to reuse anyway. And yes on your O-ring question, one under each elbow. Buy new elbows, others have re-used them and had them crack either upon re-tightening, or shortly thereafter. The old O-rings will be a gooey paste in the elbow, easier to toss everything and replace with new.

Erdoc48 said:

The carb hose thing now sounds scary- I guess I should research that. Stupid question...other than removing the carbs, does the tank require removal as well?

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No, but the tank is easy to remove (if near empty) and it will allow more room to easily get the throttle cables off.

Thanks, adding elbows. Saw in a post that removing the fuel tank will make the job easier. Pic shown using a broom handle to assist pulling the carbs out of boots. Looks like Camel hump in fuel tank could get in the way. Want to avoid that terrible hopeless feeling of a broken bike a long way from home.