Removing rear wheel

I have a ABS/CBS 1100 and could do with a new rear tyre,had a look through the Haynes manual & it doesn't look too bad (this is my first shaft driven bike) but regarding the ABS is there anything I should do different than the Haynes? Just worried about sensors etc & don't want to be damaging anything etc.
Thanks in anticipation..

I make sure brake calipers are roped out of the way so they don't scrape up wheel ( again ! ) , also you can slip in heavy plastic sheet in between wheel & hard parts to help guide wheel out without damage , ( I use empty softener salt bags that have the thickness to work good .)

It helps to make sure:
That the bike is in gear once you have it on the center stand.
Pry the driven hub on the wheel away from the final drive using a lever inserted in the slot under the final drive.

Going by memory here, but on reinstall, be sure that the pinch bolt is slightly tight so the axle will not be pulled through excessively when you torque the axle nut.

To make it easier, remove the silencer hanger bolt on each side to give you a little more room to remove the axle. Sometimes the wheel 'chunk' wants to hang in the shaft 'chunk' so just watch it when you remove it. Also, on reassembly, it is easier to position the wheel without the caliper in place, insert the axle and then slide the wheel into the shaft 'chunk'. Then, support the bottom of the wheel so it doesn't come loose, remove the axle, position the caliper, then reinsert the axle. Also, remove the rear mud guard before you start so you can easily take the rear wheel out the back.

jmcarruth said:

.... Going by memory here, but on reinstall, be sure that the pinch bolt is slightly tight so the axle will not be pulled through excessively when you torque the axle nut.

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Dead wrong! The axle must be allowed to freely move while tightening the axle bolt so all the bearings' inner races and the distance collars are in contact, tightly torqued together. Yes, there will probably be a slight gap between the inside edge of the swingarm and the caliper bracket, exposing a bit of the axle's shoulder on that end. This is NORMAL. Think about it. If you tightent the pinch bolts first, torquing down the axle bolt then will distort the swingarm from its correct/normal alignment. The pinch bolts only keep the axle from turning after you've properly secured the wheel to the final drive.

A good reinstall trip by Uncle Phil that I also use. Can save a lot of grief.

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Dead wrong! The axle must be allowed to freely move while tightening the axle bolt so all the bearings' inner races and the distance collars are in contact, tightly torqued together. Yes, there will probably be a slight gap between the inside edge of the swingarm and the caliper bracket, exposing a bit of the axle's shoulder on that end. This is NORMAL. Think about it. If you tightent the pinch bolts first, torquing down the axle bolt then will distort the swingarm from its correct/normal alignment. The pinch bolts only keep the axle from turning after you've properly secured the wheel to the final drive.

A good reinstall trip by Uncle Phil that I also use. Can save a lot of grief.

John

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Good catch John! And usually the same mistake is made when doing the front wheel ... ;-)

This is also a good time to re-lube the appropriate areas with molly paste, and don't forget to check (or replace) the o-rings while you are there! I'm just about to do this for my '02 ST1100 for a new rear tire install - fun times!!

John OoSTerhuis said:

Dead wrong! The axle must be allowed to freely move while tightening the axle bolt so all the bearings' inner races and the distance collars are in contact, tightly torqued together. Yes, there will probably be a slight gap between the inside edge of the swingarm and the caliper bracket, exposing a bit of the axle's shoulder on that end. This is NORMAL. Think about it. If you tightent the pinch bolts first, torquing down the axle bolt then will distort the swingarm from its correct/normal alignment. The pinch bolts only keep the axle from turning after you've properly secured the wheel to the final drive.

A good reinstall trip by Uncle Phil that I also use. Can save a lot of grief.

John

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I tighten the pinch bolts slightly to prevent the axle from turning while the nut is being tightened. After a couple of turns of the axle nut I loosen the pinch bolts up and then retighten slightly to ensure the swingarm is not distorted. I do this a few times and once the axle nut is tight I do a final loosen and then torque the pinch bolts to spec. I suppose I could use a large allen key to hold the axle while the nut is being tighened but above process has work for me for the last 15 years.

John OoSTerhuis said:

Dead wrong! The axle must be allowed to freely move while tightening the axle bolt so all the bearings' inner races and the distance collars are in contact, tightly torqued together. Yes, there will probably be a slight gap between the inside edge of the swingarm and the caliper bracket, exposing a bit of the axle's shoulder on that end. This is NORMAL. Think about it. If you tightent the pinch bolts first, torquing down the axle bolt then will distort the swingarm from its correct/normal alignment. The pinch bolts only keep the axle from turning after you've properly secured the wheel to the final drive.

A good reinstall trip by Uncle Phil that I also use. Can save a lot of grief.

John

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That's why I used the term "slightly" when referring to the pinch bolt torque on re-assembly. It will allow the axle to travel, like it should, but not be pulled too far into the swingarm.

jmcarruth said:

That's why I used the term "slightly" when referring to the pinch bolt torque on re-assembly. It will allow the axle to travel, like it should, but not be pulled too far into the swingarm.

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I think the point here is that once the shoulder of the axle contacts the caliper holder, it can't move into the swing arm any further and that is where you want the axle to be before tightening up the pinch bolts.

John OoSTerhuis said:

Dead wrong! The axle must be allowed to freely move while tightening the axle bolt so all the bearings' inner races and the distance collars are in contact, tightly torqued together.

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This is important. If you don't follow what John is saying then discard whatever you knew from any previous bikes you have owned, and re-read it. My experience with other bikes was that the spacer simply floats between the bearings - whether this was an incorrect assumption on my part, I don't know and can't remember.

Whatever - it is definitely not the case with the ST1100 and ST1300. The axle clamps everything together from the properly torqued nut - remembering of course to install the stopper bolt before torqueing up the rear axle.

Re the ABS sensor - The manual that I have access to says not to remove the ABS sensor when removing the rear wheel. If it is removed and left loose, it can be easy to forget about it when manoeuvring the heavy wheel. If it is left in the bracket, you know exactly where it is. It will come to no harm when removing the wheel. Just be aware of it when putting the wheel back. Before taking the wheel off, find a piece of wood or something that will just fit under the rear wheel, and then remove it to one side. When you put the wheel back in, you can rest the wheel on this wood and it will be at the correct height to slide onto the splines.



The sensor is a close fit inside the bracket, and corrosion can cause it to corrode and seize, so on another occasion, it's a pretty good idea to take out the sensor, clean it up and re-grease the body (not the end magnetic surface). However, if it is stuck, do not attempt to remove it until you have stocked up on sufficient swear words. You will need all of them when that very gently tap to pry the sensor flange from the bracket results in the bracket from being snapped off the inner shell of the final drive. It only takes a very tiny tap to break the cast alloy. Please don't ask me how I know this. No. Please don't.

I believe the tightening sequence is:

1 -tighten axle nut 80 ft lbs
2 -tighten pinch bolt 20 ft lbs
3 -tighten caliper stop bolt 51 ft lb

DeanR said:

I believe the tightening sequence is:

1 -tighten axle nut 80 ft lbs
2 -tighten pinch bolt 20 ft lbs
3 -tighten caliper stop bolt 51 ft lb

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That smells about right from memory ... ;-)

DeanR said:

I believe the tightening sequence is:

1 -tighten axle nut 80 ft lbs
2 -tighten pinch bolt 20 ft lbs
3 -tighten caliper stop bolt 51 ft lb

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Except you would need to get the left silencer out of the way to get a torque wrench on that bolt, so my arm torque wrench pulling on a 14mm box end wrench has always worked for me.

Bush said:

Except you would need to get the left silencer out of the way to get a torque wrench on that bolt, so my arm torque wrench pulling on a 14mm box end wrench has always worked for me.

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Ain't that the truth .... I found a really neat reversible ratchet wrench bent perfectly for the job from Sears. I think Harbor Freight sells one also.

Bush said:

Except you would need to get the left silencer out of the way to get a torque wrench on that bolt, so my arm torque wrench pulling on a 14mm box end wrench has always worked for me.

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Me too. Except for yesterday when I actually put a torque wrench on it.

Uncle Phil said:

Ain't that the truth .... I found a really neat reversible ratchet wrench bent perfectly for the job from Sears. I think Harbor Freight sells one also.

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Mr too. Ace Hardware