New owner 2010 st1300 first hway ride
- Thread starter honsfun
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- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
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ST1300 service manual section 15-21.
Front wheel/suspension/steering installation has nothing to do with alignment on the front forks/trees.
ST1300 service manual section 1-13 - 20 ft lbs for the engine oil filter cartridge
....Again.....go back and watch the video all the way through
Correct. Keep your hands off the brakes when aligning the forks. I just push the front tire against the wall 2-3 times to compress the forks, then torque the left pinch bolts.Front wheel/suspension/steering installation has nothing to do with alignment on the front forks/trees.
ST1300 service manual section 1-13 - 20 ft lbs for the engine oil filter cartridge
....Again.....go back and watch the video all the way through
- Joined
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- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
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- 6651
If the front wheel and axle assembly is not aligned to the fork legs when assembled the bike can have a tendency to pull to one side and/or the calipers do not have sufficient clearance to disks so the Honda service manual procedure using the front brake accomplishes the alignment just fine. You could also press the wheel up against a wall not using the brake or loosen every fastener from axle to top bridge nut and bounce it without using the brake - like in the video.Front wheel/suspension/steering installation has nothing to do with alignment on the front forks/trees.
ST1300 service manual section 1-13 - 20 ft lbs for the engine oil filter cartridge
....Again.....go back and watch the video all the way through
Keep your powder dry Larry. This one is just not worth arguing over a there is often more than one way to accomplish a task. If I needed to align the entire fork assembly from axle to top bridge the video is an excellent resource - thanks for sharing it with us. If we simply remove the front wheel for some item of maintenance is all that is required is bounce the front end with the left pinch bolts loose.
today I added oil to the rear shock preload adjuster, thanks for the guide. It was almost empty. Took the bike to a friend who installs M/C suspensions. He suggested I add 1/2in longer spacer in front fork before considering spring replacement. Will do.
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That's almost exactly what I did. At 165 lbs riding weight I needed a 16 mm (5/8" inch)longer spacer to get the preload and thus fork sag right. Then a slightly thinner fork fluid.
stopped at Honda pickup crush washers for banjo ftg on preload adjuster, Sold me wrong size. Anyone know the Honda part #???
The stock OEM spacer is 200 mm, by replacing it with a piece of PVC (schedule 40) that is 215 mm long may work for you, only rub is, you may have to fiddle with the oil level now and find one that works for you, as the stock level may not work as well with a longer spacer.
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- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
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I do not know the size but I've reused the ones on mine and they do not leak. Like crush washers on oil pan drains, good to replace now and then but mostly just flip them over and reuse.
- Joined
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- 6651
Oh, it works just fine at my weight. More preload only raises ride height, it doesn't change spring rate. To make sure use zip ties to measure maximum fork travel. The stock springs need a small air gap to keep travel within 10 mm of bottoming. If you go to a stiffer spring then it makes sense to lower the oil level.
installed risers today so while the bars were off thought I would change fork spacers to longer, No go found damper rod conn to fork cap. So not possible without removing forks.
All you will need to remove the caps are a 12 mm socket, 17 mm allen, and a 14 mm open end wrench or crows foot socket.
Loosen the upper pinch bolts, loosen/remove the cap, insert 14 mm open end wrench between cap and spacer (it will find the 14 mm nut) hold this nut, then loosen the cap from the damper rod.
When your finished, thread the nut all the way down the rod as far as it will go, screw the cap back on as far as it will go (it will meet the nut) Hold the nut again, tighten the cap, then tighten the pinch bolts.
You may find it easier to make a flat plate out of steel with a slot in it to hold everything in place.
I'm sure someone will post a picture of one.
I had the cap off and I removed the spacer but I didn't think I could install a longer spacer and compress it enough to install the cap and tighten the 14mm nut. The 14mm nut when tightened against the cap is below the top of fork,
I noticed the same problem when I first got my ST. I'm a lightweight rider and 130lbs, so I thought I'd just turn the rear pre-load to the lightest setting. The bike was wondering around in the lane on highway. I felt unsafe. At first I thought it was the front fork being to soft or had too much flex. But there's no knob to turn in the front. So I gradually turned the rear pre-load up, and the bike now tracks very well, no more wondering around. At my weight, it feels riding an elephant. Elephants are fast animals btw.
My experience was similar to OkcKeith. I did not change any suspension parts but found the switch to PR4's made a significant affect on the bikes stability.
Absolutely. It's easy to fool yourself by comparing the performance of worn out equipment (shocks, forks, carb, brakes, steering bearings...etc) with an expensive new replacement part.
One of my favorite fallacies involves adapting a single Weber carb to a GL1000, replacing the four carb factory set up. 'Boy....did my performance improve over stock!!!!' Nope.
You've gotten a lot of good information to check on.
One thing no one has mentioned - the windscreen. That screen, when raised, acts like a sail and it will feel like the bike is weaving. Actually, what it feels like to me (Larry thought it was a good description) is like I'm riding the bike on ice. Run the screen up - feel the twitching? Now lower it and you will notice the ride is more stable. This phenomena can actually be seen. While you're riding and you feel the bobbing, look down the fork tubes at the ground - you will see the upper portion of the bike bobbing, but the tires are of course firmly planted (and not weaving).
Also, do you have a top-case? If yes, that will affect the ride - take it off and go for another ride.
Last edited:
mlheck
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So slide a board under the front wheel to push the dampening rod up out of the fork to tighten the nut, then remove the board and screw the cap on. Yes you will have to push firmly on the cap to compress it enough to screw it back on. Make sure that you do not cross thread it as the they are fine threads. It is slightly difficult, but not impossible. Adding the proper preload makes a great difference in the handling of the bike.
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I had the same issue with a used 07 ST1300 I bought last summer. First changed the tires to Michelin PR4's, the previous Dunlop's still had plenty of tread but the front tire was cupped from running under inflated. When I got the bike they had 20/25 lbs of air in back/front. Also had the steering bearings tightened, there was a wobble in the front end when on the center stand and the front wheel was in the air. Both of these things helped. The final thing was removing the Givi. My brother had been suggesting this and it really made the difference at speeds over 70. When I first purchased the bike it was very squirrelly on the freeway, it was like driving on ice/snow. It really rocks now. From reading these threads and watching the videos I've found a few new things to try. Cheers!