Electrical Shut Down - PLEASE HELP!!!

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hi my brother has a st1300a/2 2004 and it has recently developed a major electrical fault - can anyone shed any light to this please or has anyone had any similar problem? Basically it will start but when its running if you switch on anything electrical, ie lights or indicators or even the screen .. it shuts down, the engine cuts out and the side lights stay on and ALL the indicators stay on - not flashing just on permanent .. it seems in some sort of shut down or safe mode. With the battery disconnected it re-sets and then starts but then the same happens when you turn on anything electrical again - its driving us mad!!
We have tried all the standard stuff with fuses and relays etc all has been checked and all seems fine and still its the same. We have found some info that there was a recall for some yellow connector under the tank that got hot and caused a similar issue but the bike has been fine for months until this issue and we are desperate to sort it .. cant really afford to take to a workshop so would very much appreciate anyone ideas or feedback from anyone that has had a similar experience or knows what it could possibly be - many thanks up front !!
 

Trapperdog

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I would bet it's a fried ground connection in either the 12 pin yellow ground connector in the right front fairing, or the 20 pin multi connector on the left side of the bike. Lots of info on these if you do a search.

Edit, after re reading your post and it seems odd that the engine cuts out as well
 
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Mellow

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The first thing I would do is spray some contact cleaner in the switch pods... they tend to build up 'gunk' that causes electrical gremlins.. especially w/UK weather.
 

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We have found some info that there was a recall for some yellow connector under the tank that got hot and caused a similar issue but the bike has been fine for months...
If that is the cause, the bike will run great right up to the point where it doesn't. You can find the recall instructions that were issued in the U.S. here: CLICKY.

it seems in some sort of shut down or safe mode.
The technical term for that is "broken mode." :)

--Mark
 

jfheath

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I'm wondering if some electrical gremlin is cutting power to one of the relay coils, effectively turning off a load of other stuff.

Dave sent me your email, Big Buzz. Is the bike in Yorkshire, by any chance - only ask 'cos I know Dave is.

Is it an A2 or an A4 ? Check the label on the frame under the seat. I am wondering about headlights and whether or not there is a switch to turn the lights on or not. The later UK models have the lights come on with the ignition - ie there is no switch to turn the lights on or off. We get to be able to run the battery flat in a very short space of time !!

John
 
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dduelin

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I would check the yellow ground bus just behind and above the right hand headlight and the white 24 pin connector on the left side of the bike just about where the radiator is. There is plenty of evidence historically pointing to ground wire fittings in these connections causing similiar no start or weird lighting problems separately or in combination.

This is an excellent thread covering the topic: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?98008-Lights-stay-on-when-ignition-switch-in-Off-bike-won-t-start
 

jfheath

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Glad you found that link again, dduelin.

Since anything electrical is causing the problem, it sounds like an earth issue. If there is a faulty earth, then power finds whichever route it can to complete a circuit, and if that means going through the indicators, then it will. You've seen this happen on trailer lights.

I suspect if you find the connector blocks that dduelin mentioned, the problem will be obvious (see the pics). You could try to eliminate particular circuits to find out if it is every circuit or just one / some by taking fuses out and replacing them one at a time.


The fuse boxes (two of them) have a number of fuses in each, and the top of the box is labelled. You should have.

A 10A ABS Main
B 10A Position, Meter, Tail,
C 15A Horn, Front, Rear Brake, Pass
D 10A Start, Eng, Bank Angle
E 10A Headlight
F 15A Hazard, Acc (F is positioned sideways at the back. DOn't confuse with the spare, and the black clutch diode, also at the back).
G 30A Fan
----

H 30A ABS Rear
I 10A Headlight
J 10A Battery, Clock
K 20A Screen
L 20A Fuel Pump, Ign
M 30A ABS Front

The caption on the covers may differ slightly.

What might be worth trying is removing the fuses that are for items that are switched on - that would be B, C, E, F and I, K - you could also remove the Fan fuse G - but since that isn't likely to switch in when running in the garage, it isn't likely to be the problem.

Then start up the engine and see if the problem presents itself.

Then put in the fuses one at a time. and try again. Try to find out when the fault occurs. If the fault recurs, then make a note, leave that fuse out and try with the other fuses.

Note that Fuse I and Fuse E are both for the headlights. Fuse E powers the right hand bulb as long as the contacts in the starter motor button are connecting, AND the high beam low beam switch are connecting. This power comes straight from the battery via the fuse in the starter motor relay at the left side of the battery, and the ignition key switch (but if you have a light switch on your handlebars, this will be different.) We could do with knowing which model you have.

If the right hand headlights are getting power, then that triggers the appropriate relay (high or low) for the left hand bulb to be activated.

So left headlight gets power via fuse E. Right bulb gets power from fuse I via relays triggered by power to left bulb.

Also worth seeing if the fault occurs on high and/or low beam.

But I'd be tempted to follow the earthing route first.
 
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Since the consensus is a ground problem, I would go over the bike and check all of the ground points. You will have the tupperware off, so you might as well go ahead and look for corrosion at any grounds you can find. Pull apart connectors and check the wires leading into them for signs of overheating - brown/brittle insulation.
 

dduelin

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jfheath

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guys

thank you all for your comments and feedback, its very much appreciated and what a fantastic resource/site this it .. it turns out as most have pointed out, to be the yellow ground block behind the headlight. When we got to that and moved it about - all went fine. In the process of stripping and cleaning and soldering another neutral cable to it and back to the bolt to neutral on the frame to the coil pack - this will stop the block getting hot we have been told .. thanks again all - sorry we are in The Midlands not Yorkshire but many thanks again to all
 

jfheath

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Well done for getting it sorted. Another neutral cable to the chassis may well help - it might share the load. If you think about it, most of those cables are trying to complete the circuit to the -ve battery terminal. One of the cables - hopefully a thick one will actually be connected to either the chassis or to the main return to battery lead in the harness. When the cap is put on top it connects them all together and provides the route for all of the circuits to be complete. But the cap has to carry the returning current from all of those leads. If another lead is added to the connector - especially if it is some at the other end of the connector from the existing return lead, then the current through the full length of that cap is very much reduced, preventing it from getting hot. If the new lead is put right next to the existing return lead, I doubt it will have much effect on reducing the heat.

I'm intrigued by all of those symptoms being the result of bad earth leads. - I mean, I know it is possible for poor earths to cause such a dramatic effect, but I have yet to work out the routes that the power takes in order to produce such an odd mix of spurious symptoms. Just curiosity, but I won't be losing any sleep over it !
 
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I would check the yellow ground bus just behind and above the right hand headlight and the white 24 pin connector on the left side of the bike just about where the radiator is. There is plenty of evidence historically pointing to ground wire fittings in these connections causing similiar no start or weird lighting problems separately or in combination.

This is an excellent thread covering the topic: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?98008-Lights-stay-on-when-ignition-switch-in-Off-bike-won-t-start



this was exactly the problem, a clean up and fresh wire back to neutral and its worked perfect for months - cheers m
 
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