Disable Anti Dive?

RobbieAG

Robert
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2005 ST1300
I ordered straight rate springs from Traxxion Dynamics and went to install them today. On the instructions it states "Disable anti-dive by removing washers and spring from the tip of the damper rod." I'm inclined to to do as they say, but wanted to get other's opinions. The service manual shows 2 springs - a rebound spring and an oil lock valve spring. I'm thinking I need to remove both and all the associated washers etc. (parts # 4 - 9 on page 13-18 in the service manual). Also, I'm have a difficult time getting the bolt out at the bottom of the fork (left fork with damper rod), and I'm afraid I'll strip the head. Anybody have a tip on how to get this out? I'm tempted to just leave the anti-dive alone and move on, but think it's best to follow their instructions.
 
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The damper rod bolt is the toughest little sucker sometimes. If you had access to an impact driver that is the best tool to use to shock the threads into submission. There's probably some threadlock on it too, so a bit of heat (e.g. propane torch to the bolt head) will help things along.
 
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I haven't done ST forks, but I know Goldwing owners have been known to disable the anti-dive. It's a different method on those and can be done externally. I'd say do it if you can, but it you don't that's OK too.

As far as removing the lower bolt, as Terry says, air impact works very well with shock and speed. I leave the forks fully assembled to keep the spring preload on the cartridge, sometimes have had to get a helper to compress the fork (in a vice) then remove the bolt. Put a small piece of plywood on your chest, grab the fork lower and compress it. Use a good hex socket in the bolt so you don't strip out the head.
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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Greensboro NC
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As far as removing the lower bolt, as Terry says, air impact works very well with shock and speed. I leave the forks fully assembled to keep the spring preload on the cartridge, sometimes have had to get a helper to compress the fork (in a vice) then remove the bolt. Put a small piece of plywood on your chest, grab the fork lower and compress it. Use a good hex socket in the bolt so you don't strip out the head.
I should have loosened it before disassembling the forks, but I didn't realize I was going to need to. I did on my other bike (ST1300) when I did springs on it and was able to loosen it, but it turns out I didn't need to. I'm using an allen wrench with a 6mm socket and extension for leverage. That won't work with an impact gun due to the 90 degree angle. I may need to get an extended socket. It may be too late already as there's a bit of play now. It looks like it's brass so deforms easily.

Another question - what do you guys use to attach the cartridge rod on the right fork to the fork cap? That thing is a royal pain! A couple years ago I replaced the fork oil and I needed two helpers to do it - one to hold the rod up with a coat hanger, and one to slip the slotted washer in while I compressed the spring.

Another thing Traxxion recommended was ditching the slotted washer. I have no problem with that!
 
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I use a bolt (about 3") which fits the locknut threads, and screw this onto the damper rod. That makes it a lot easier to fish out of the fork leg and gives something solid to grab onto. Then drop the springs and flat washers and spacer into the leg, and pull the bolt up (might need a magnet to lift it up enough to grab), compress the spring by hand and slip the slotted washer into place to hold it all together. Then remove the bolt, wind the locknut down fully on the rod, then fit the fork cap.
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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I decided to send the forks to Traxxion to disable the anti-dive, install the springs and do a full service on them. Hopefully I'll have them back in about a week.
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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I don't get it. Why disable the anti-dive if just replacing the fork springs....?

What am I missing...? TIA

John
I followed up with Traxxion after I had trouble with the bolt at the bottom and stripped the head asking if it would be a big deal to leave it alone. Here's their response:

"With the stiffer fork springs the antidive is not needed or helpful."
 

John OoSTerhuis

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I followed up with Traxxion after I had trouble with the bolt at the bottom and stripped the head asking if it would be a big deal to leave it alone. Here's their response:

"With the stiffer fork springs the antidive is not needed or helpful."
Thanks for the reply. Not sure I believe it. Looking at the fork schematic I wouldn’t know definitively what parts they what you to remove to “disable” it. What about the anti-dive unit itself?, there’s a spring in there too...

Are you supposed to also freeze the left caliper somehow so it no longer rocks during hard braking to activate the anti-dive normally?

John
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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Thanks for the reply. Not sure I believe it. Looking at the fork schematic I wouldn't know definitively what parts they what you to remove to “disable†it. What about the anti-dive unit itself?, there's a spring in there too...

Are you supposed to also freeze the left caliper somehow so it no longer rocks during hard braking to activate the anti-dive normally?

John
I wasn't sure exactly what to remove to disable the anti-dive from their instructions. I had questions written to send to them but never bothered when I ran into trouble. I know one of their specialties is Goldwing suspension, and I imagine a lot of what they're recommending is based on that, since it uses anti-dive as well.
 

wjbertrand

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According to the OP's profile, the bike is an '05 ST1300? The ST1300 doesn't have a specific anti-dive circuit, unlike the ST1100. The washer stack at the end of the damper rod (which is inside the cartridge BTW) is your rebound damping valve. The cartridge must be disassembled to access it. You certainly don't want to disable the rebound damping! I think those instructions sound like they are for another model. I put straight rate springs in my 1300 and didn't disable anything. Later I rebuilt them with Race Tech Gold valves for both the compression and rebound circuits, so I've had the forks completely in pieces. No other circuits and no other springs (other than the big ones in each leg).
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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Greensboro NC
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2005 ST1300
According to the OP's profile, the bike is an '05 ST1300? The ST1300 doesn't have a specific anti-dive circuit, unlike the ST1100. The washer stack at the end of the damper rod (which is inside the cartridge BTW) is your rebound damping valve. The cartridge must be disassembled to access it. You certainly don't want to disable the rebound damping! I think those instructions sound like they are for another model. I put straight rate springs in my 1300 and didn't disable anything. Later I rebuilt them with Race Tech Gold valves for both the compression and rebound circuits, so I've had the forks completely in pieces. No other circuits and no other springs (other than the big ones in each leg).
I have two bikes - a 2001 ST1100, and a 2005 ST1300 (both non ABS). This is for the 1100. I replaced the springs in the 1300 with Traxxion's straight rate springs and had no issues. I'm very happy with the improvement it made. Sorry for the confusion. I think I tried putting both bikes in the profile, but it wouldn't let me - not enough room.
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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I got my forks back from Traxxion yesterday. Besides the rebuild, I had them re-valve them. Hopefully I'll get them on this weekend.
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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Greensboro NC
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I got the forks on last weekend. I was only able to take it for a quick 25 mile ride, but the initial impressions are very positive. There's a lot less dive on braking and the wallowing is gone. It's very controlled, but not harsh at all. I'm looking forward to taking it on some serious twisty roads next season to further wring it out!
 

John OoSTerhuis

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So... what exactly did they do to the anti-dive? Does the caliper still rock? Suspension fluid still flow through the unit? TIA

John
 
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RobbieAG

RobbieAG

Robert
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So... what exactly did they do to the anti-dive? Does the caliper still rock? Suspension fluid still flow through the unit?
I don't know exactly how they disabled the anti-dive, but I got a bag of small parts back with the forks. From the parts fiche, they look to be from the anti-dive mechanism. The caliper still attaches as before.
 
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it removes the cup, spring and washer from the end of the fork, that's really about it
 
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