Can the headlight bulb really be done that way

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From underneath without removing anything? I've had a real close look,and can't see a way of doing it,or am I missing something? When I was installing my usb sockets under the ABS switches on the fairing,I upgraded the bulbs to Osram night breakers,however one has now blown. Never had one go out that quick,but it looks so odd now with just one dipped beam bulb driving along,the main beam still works but I'm assuming just the one bulb in the dipped beam is an MOT failure here in the UK?
 
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If yours is an ABS model, I think it is much more difficult, if not impossible to change the bulbs from below, because of the extra stuff in there. I think. Even though mine is a non ABS, I prefer to go in from the top, even though it requires removing some plastic.


EDIT: UP has corrected me on reaching the bulbs on an ABS model.
 
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jfheath

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Oops. Sorry, this is an st1300 reply to an st1100 question. Thanks Uncle Phil for subtly pointing that out in post #4. Think i'll go and lie down now!

It depends on the size of your hands, I think. I say that only because I have big hands, and I cannot get to the bulb holder from above. I can get my hand down, but there is not enough room to get my fingers onto the part of the connector that needs to be pressed on either side to release it.

So I try to get it from below. Sometimes I can do it, sometimes I can't. It made it much easier once I had practiced a few times when I had the fairing off, and had put dilectric grease on the connector to ease things.

I don't know about MOT failure. Some bikes always run with one beam turned off. But Uk has an 'if its fitted, it must work' rule. Ask them before you go.

[Edit]
I thought I had posted this article on here years back, but can't find it. I'll add it to this post when I get a chance. In the meantime, this may be of some help:
http://www.jfheath.co.uk/st1300/st1300-serv-headlight.shtml
[/Edit]
 
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Uncle Phil

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I always change my ST1100 ABSII bulbs from the bottom because you can't get to them from the top. The ABS computer is attached to the back of the speedo/tach unit and right in the way. Remove the black garnish under the headlight, sit on your bottom and reach up in there. It's painful, but doable. You want to turn the forks in the direction that gives you more space. The biggest deal is getting the pesky wire holder loose. BTW, I just swapped mine over to Evitek LEDS so hopefully I won't be doing it as often.
 
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Yes it can, or it can on my non ABS 98.
It was daunting enough to leave it alone when it blew on a trip, I just turned down the main beam with the handy adjuster and used that instead. But once home and in the garage I changed both bulbs out in about 15 minutes. It took longer for the scrape marks to heal.
Upt'North.
 
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The part that always annoys me is getting the little retaining wire to release takes about 3 seconds, but trying to get it back into its position after replacing the bulb seems to take a couple dozen random tries, and then one of them just happens to work for no apparent reason. And the bulbs burn out infrequently enough that I can't remember anything from the last replacement to make it any easier. I don't have the H4 conversion shims, I just bend the pins on a regular H4 bulb and shove it in there, so it may be the orientation of the bulb that's the major factor over anything else.
 

Uncle Phil

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The part that always annoys me is getting the little retaining wire to release takes about 3 seconds, but trying to get it back into its position after replacing the bulb seems to take a couple dozen random tries, and then one of them just happens to work for no apparent reason.
Again the truth! Sometimes it only takes minutes for the whole deal, sometimes it seems to take hours - and for no apparent reason. ;-)
 
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I have the luxury of an extra headlight to practice with on the kitchen table. I rehearse the whole bail ordeal a few times before moving to the bike. Done more or less by feel. Even then, as Uncle Phil said, it can be minutes, or lots longer.
No more dealing with it however, with the addition of the Eviteks.
 

Slydynbye

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This might help. My apologies to the originator I don't remember who created this.
Bulb Replacement JPG.JPG
st1100 bulb clip.jpg

Also use your smart phone to snap a shot from inside the fairing to orient yourself.
 
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This might help. My apologies to the originator I don't remember who created this.
Bulb Replacement JPG.JPG
st1100 bulb clip.jpg
Also use your smart phone to snap a shot from inside the fairing to orient yourself.
Thanks for the shortcut i don't need it today but it will be someday.
 

wjbertrand

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I used to change the bulbs on my '93 ABS from underneath with no problem. There's a triangular chin piece underneath the headlight that you can remove first to improve access.
 

ST Gui

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Eyeball the bail setup best as you can and the orientation. Then use the Force. Close your eyes and visualize the bail hook and latch bits. I find it makes the job easier.
 

paulcb

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There's a triangular chin piece underneath the headlight that you can remove first to improve access.
This! I struggled for a bit until I figured this out.

For '96 and later ABSII models, removing the ABS computer helps a lot. It's only two screws, and can then be set aside without having to unplug it. Also, a small mirror and a flashlight helps tremendously.
 

richpeabody

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I have replaced bulbs on my '01 ABS while only removing the triangle piece of plastic....once you understand the clips and how they work, it's not too bad.

Have fun!
 

richpeabody

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I have replaced bulbs on my '01 ABS while only removing the triangle piece of plastic....once you understand the clips and how they work, it's not too bad.

Have fun!
 

John OoSTerhuis

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This might help. My apologies to the originator I don't remember who created this.
Bulb Replacement JPG.JPG
Scott Finn, STOC 4752, of LaCresent City, MN, took this picture; which has helped many ST1100riders over the years.

I've never had a bulb or capsule fail on my ST1100 in 24 years/190K. I have had the whole headlight module in my lap a few times to mod the sockets for H4s, install an HID, and replace with a euro version.

John
 

kiltman

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The Euro version accepts the regular 55/60W H4 bulbs. No need to use shims or cut tabs. I converted to a Euro headlight last year. Now to wire the pilot bulb. ;)
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Hi John.

I am curious to know if you modified the housing to accept H4's why did you then change for a Euro housing? Is there something else that is different or were these two different bikes?
Hi Andrew. I got a good deal on a euro headlight module from a friend. The euro doesnt have the USA DOT mandated antenuator in the left reflector. I gave my old one to a fellow SSMST owner whose lens had been rock-holed.

John
 
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