St1100 Total Restoration

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Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
Error :

You are missing the timing belt guide plate on the left camshaft gear !! See Item #15 here : https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1998/st1100-a/front-cover

BTW, I installed one on the end of the right gear also - better than OEM now !!
Thank you all and thank you Jim for noticing that, i have it plated and will install it with front cover after everything is else complete. Need to check all in the end and it is easier to see punch marks or the index lines this way.(I should write more about the pictures)

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OP
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Error85
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Dec 6, 2017
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Turkey
Yesterday i found a chance to work on the bike but i need help with the camshafts. I think i am doing something wrong here..

I installed timing belt and pulleys as shown in the manual:

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Confusion starts here: There are two marks on the camshafts,one is index line the other is index punch. When the T1 mark aligns with the index mark on the crankcase i installed RH camshafts with the index lines pointing out,no problem..Now, do i install the LH camshaft at the same position(T1) with index marks pointing out like shown on the first picture or i install the LH camshaft at the T4 point with index lines pointing out? From what i understand with the manual it should be the second one but when i do that cyl#4 exhaust camshaft touches and pushes the follower just a bit and i can't measure with feeler gauge. What i am missing here??

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Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,045
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
follow the picture, the left cam uses the punch marks for alignment, not the index lines.

In the T1 crank alignment configuration you have the #1 cyl (right side) at TDC, so the left cam is going to possibly compress some of its valves, that is normal, those cylinders are not at TDC.

edit: read your post again and are you saying that when you do the normal valve clearance check you are at less than zero?

Remember, if you did the T4 timing instead of the procedure in the book, there are two T4 crank revolutions for one cam revolution, perhaps you put the cam in using the wrong T4. Go with the book procedure, you can't go wrong with that because there's only one orientation where everything lines up as illustrated.
 
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SilverSTreak

Bill Royal
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
211
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
1137
re:

"Also check carefully the rubbed diaphragms on the slides"

I have a set of 4 very nearly new diaphragms that I could let go for a very reasonable price!

Just let me know if you need and want them.


 

paulcb

- - - Tetelestai - - - R.I.P. - 2022/05/26
Rest In Peace
Joined
Jun 4, 2013
Messages
4,650
Location
Celina, TX
Bike
'97/'01 ST1100 ABSII
STOC #
8735
So, how's the restoration coming along? Any new updates?
 
OP
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Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
Been really busy at the office for a while and it was really cold,had to slow down the project but things are going back to normal.So this weeks update..

About the valve clearance, it seems everything was normal i was just making a simple measurement mistake that i am not going to talk about :D

Anyway finished up and installed the covers..

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Put the frame on..

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Front suspension.Did not remove the tubes just the spring and dust seals..

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Cleaned with wire wheel..

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Front abs sensor cable was rusted and broke while removing it,that is something to worry about..

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Painted with epoxy primer..
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Epoxy base and clear coat..

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Swing arm..

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And this is all for now.

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Joined
Oct 17, 2015
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near Harrow, Ontario, Canada
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'83 BMW R100RS
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8870
Hi Error - this looks like a superb job you've done! I can't wait to here that old gal come back to life - please have a video going when you hit the starter button.

There is another Forum member restoring an ST1100 ABS and he had big problems that the ABS system - but he worked very hard at it and actually solved a problem which many ST1100 folks seem to have. You might want to read over his thread and see if you find any solutions (I am confident that you'll find inspiration!). The thread is called ST1100-Gift-Part2 and his name is Dean:

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?158527-ST1100-Gift-Part-2&highlight=

Cheers,

Pete
 
OP
OP
Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
Hi Error - this looks like a superb job you've done! I can't wait to here that old gal come back to life - please have a video going when you hit the starter button.

There is another Forum member restoring an ST1100 ABS and he had big problems that the ABS system - but he worked very hard at it and actually solved a problem which many ST1100 folks seem to have. You might want to read over his thread and see if you find any solutions (I am confident that you'll find inspiration!). The thread is called ST1100-Gift-Part2 and his name is Dean:

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?158527-ST1100-Gift-Part-2&highlight=

Cheers,

Pete
Thanks Pete, that is very similar to what i've been going through. And now i am scared of ABS:eek:: .Unfortunately,i will probably end up buying a front sensor..
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
Site Supporter
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Nov 20, 2005
Messages
9,497
Location
Cedar City, Utah
Bike
12/04 ST 1300s
2024 Miles
000145
STOC #
5901
Looking GOOD!

You're doing one heck of a job on that!

Keep up the good work! :hat3:
 
OP
OP
Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
This weeks update..

I was about to complete the alignment of the engine-swing arm and then this. Seems po fell on both sides and bend the guards(That was why the plastic guard was in the rear case,he couldn't fit it anymore). I saw this when i removed them but totally forgot.:-| Now have to repaint.

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And if i remember correctly that is the bolt that was there and surprisingly i can not find it locally here anywhere so i ordered it along with some other stuff and now have to wait for at least 3 weeks. In the mean time i will try to heat and make it straight again.The guard heated and brought back to shape. Quick question : I tried to align the U shaped end part horizontal to the engine/ground,is this correct? Because the left side also does not fit and it is looking weirdly tilted.
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I am planing to get the bike off the table before it gets too heavy so started working on steering, suspensions and wheels..

Gave it a good clean and paint.
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Replaced the bearings but those are not original. Old ones are ball type,those are needle. Fits perfectly but i am not sure about the difference, better or worse..

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Moved to the rear shock. Have the spring removed and bushings replaced at a local shop. Inspected,cleaned and painted.Ready to be fitted.

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Wheels.. I used paint remover before on one of them it was real pain and didn't wanted to do it with the other one so i took it to a shop for sand blasting.But the guy suggested it would be better to have the paint removed chemically .He was afraid of the surface quality and warping because of the heat. Sent me to a chemical guy and i got it back one hour later. I was very pleased with the result.Sanded with 800grid to remove those rough spots and they came right off.

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Painted with acrylic primer. I was out of grey color but i had white also and white looks nice on the wheels..:)
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Painted with Motip silver wheel can paint and clear coated with spray gun. I never use clear coat cans on the parts that are exposed to sun,dirt etc. They are not half strong as the regular clear coats,plus spray quality is much better with a gun. Result is satisfactory i will sand and buff later(just a little) ..

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Now about the forks. After removing them (couple of weeks ago) pumped and cleaned with brake caliper spray.Spray was coming out from the anti dive side. Then they stayed upside down for days.

After reading-researching on the forums decided to go with 7.5w. Started with the right side.

The manual says for the right fork: CBS/LBS-ABS/TCS models 530.5 to 535.5cc
Oil level 140mm
Installed that anti dive part at the bottom,removed spring etc as described in the manual.Poured around 532g in to the fork (that is without the cup,took tare) and pumped the fork like the manual says but in the end it stayed exactly at 5 cm below the top.
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Then i attached my rc plane fuel pump to a caliper and set it to 140mm. Pumped the excessive oil back to the cup and it was 82,3g. (the cup is 90.6g) So there is around 450g of oil stayed in the fork.
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Question: This is my first time working on a fork.I was expecting a little difference between the oil capacity and oil level adjustments but isn't it too much? 10cm level and 82g of oil difference? Is this normal or there is something wrong with the process? Didn't i flush properly? Will move to the right side accordingly..

Now that i am looking at the picture it is above 600ml?? Will check that tomorrow.

Erkan
 
Last edited:

DavidR8

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May 31, 2017
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1,220
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Vancouver Island, British Columbia
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2013 BMW R1200RT
STOC #
8968
Following along with great admiration of your skills and attention to detail.
I want to do this kind of work on a bike (yet to be purchased) and watching you work is inspirational.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,045
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
The manual says for the right fork: CBS/LBS-ABS/TCS models 530.5 to 535.5cc
Oil level 140mm
Installed that anti dive part at the bottom,removed spring etc as described in the manual.Poured around 532g in to the fork (that is without the cup,took tare) and pumped the fork like the manual says but in the end it stayed exactly at 5 cm below the top.
.257.jpg 258.jpg
Then i attached my rc plane fuel pump to a caliper and set it to 140mm. Pumped the excessive oil back to the cup and it was 82,3g. (the cup is 90.6g) So there is around 450g of oil stayed in the fork.
259.jpg 260.jpg

Question: This is my first time working on a fork.I was expecting a little difference between the oil capacity and oil level adjustments but isn't it too much? 10cm level and 82g of oil difference? Is this normal or there is something wrong with the process? Didn't i flush properly? Will move to the right side accordingly..

Now that i am looking at the picture it is above 600ml?? Will check that tomorrow.

Erkan
Your mistake was using weight instead of volume because the specific gravity of fork oil isn't anywhere close to that of water, where weight would equal volume. Don't know the exact SG of fork oil, but somewhere around 0.85 like you found would seem reasonable. But since you corrected it by using the level method, you have it correct now.
 
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OP
OP
Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
Thank you all for your wonderful comments. It is going slow but steady,so far i am happy with the result. Also thanks for bearing with my English :)
 
OP
OP
Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
Update:

After working on the rear shock i took it to shop to assemble the spring and this is how i got it back. I got a little mad and painted the whole thing black.
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Next, radiator. There was heavy corrosion on it and one of the leg was broken. Whole thing feels like a cardboard. Took it to a shop and welded. Cleaned and painted with heat resistant paint.

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Thermostat..

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Ignition..

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Fuel lines.. Checked and cleaned hoses,replaced filter but not sure that petcock will work. Rubber deformed heavily.

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OP
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Error85
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
56
Location
Turkey
Moving on to wiring harness.. Cleaned and removed corrosion best i can. Fixed some broken wires. Found this red wire and red plug with a fuse on it.Anyone knows where this red wire goes to? (first and third picture)

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Speedometer cable was broken and the gear seemed to had some repair before but not working.Replaced the cable and ordered the gear.That will slow the project by 2 weeks since i cant install front wheel without it.

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To remove the scratches on it,water sanded meter lens with 3000 grit and polished,looking much better..

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Finally fixed the side guards,installed the engine to frame,installed new plugs,swing arm,shocks.

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Got new wheels but have to wait for that speed gear to install. It is starting to look like a bike :) but getting dangerously unstable on the bench.

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To be continued..
 
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