My GL18 tip over bar

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beijing china
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new GL18 tip over bar
IMG_0092.jpg

after cut, reaming and vice work.
IMG_0097.jpgIMG_0098.jpg


three 10*40*3 washer for each bolt, it make some clearance between bar and frame. hope it will not harm the frame.
IMG_0100.jpgIMG_0101.jpg
 
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robinyu
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If you are concerned about the frame being damaged you might consider putting bushings behind the bars to keep them from touching the frame. See the pictures in this post for an example.
thank you. I saw that thread before I made my bar, but the tailor-made bushings not easy to get. the washer can reduce pressure to the frame.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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To resolve this I had some stainless-steel bushings made.
I think SuperSabre used some type of rubber or similar material under the bars to minimize damage to the frame's surfaces. dduelin manned up and went straight to the frame with logic dictating that the bars won't be removed so surface damage isn't seen.

There've been a few mentions about small custom bits made for very specific uses. It made me think of getting something like—



for just such occasions. I'm no machinist but did use a lathe extensively throughout high school. I've known a couple of very skilled lathe operators though I don't know if they were truly machinists or not.

Both the washers and bushings have merit. You could make a bushing that has a flange at one end to support the base of the bars. Best of both methods.

Yeah overkill for a few custom pieces but being able to machine some small items like this allows for a certain amount of customization and tailoring that most often won't be found rummaging through parts bins at the local ACE store.

And like the end of some TV shows your inner child can say 'I made that!'
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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From the same thread you referenced:

And a picture from a little further away to give some perspective.
This bit is especially appreciated. As someone else noted in another thread too often a great close up pic alone fails to convey exactly what we're looking at. So props for giving perspective.


Again from the other thread:

There is currently a 1/8" gap between the bars and the step frame. This was intentional. It was to assure that the bars would not touch the step frame because I did not know how much they would distort by forcing them together- in the last two pictures you can see that the top of the bar is almost in contact with the step-frame despite the 1/8" gap. I may reduce this gap to bring the bars a little closer to the step frame at the attachment points- I haven't decided yet.
I'm curious about why you considered reducing the gap. Was it for aesthetics because of the top of the bar already being so close to the step frame?
 

Andrew Shadow

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I'm curious about why you considered reducing the gap. Was it for aesthetics because of the top of the bar already being so close to the step frame?
Purely aesthetics. Leaving the gap as is or reducing it will have no impact on function. The reasons I did it this way, besides wanting to have some solid support behind the bars, was to prevent contact between two dissimilar metals- the bars being steel and the step frame being aluminum. Why promote corrosion where it is visible I figured? The bushings blend in rather well with the the step frame so I suspect they will probably end up staying as is.
 

DavidR8

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new GL18 tip over bar

IMG_0101.jpg
I noticed in this pic that there s a gap between the washer under the head of the upper Allen bolt and that the flat tabs are not sitting solidly on the washers.
I expect this is because the two tab are no longer parallel due to being squeezed together so the holes lined up?
Is there a lot of tension trying to spring the bars apart?
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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DavidR8 said:
I expect this is because the two tab are no longer parallel due to being squeezed together so the holes lined up?
That'd be my guess as well.



Is there a lot of tension trying to spring the bars apart?
I wonder about too given the install starts with squeezing them in a vise than maintaining it with hose clamps. Possibly some judicious 'over-squeezing could shape them into permanently correct spacing. That would allow for easy removal. Overtime they may 'take a set' on their own to some degree.

Has anybody removed them for some reason other than damage? Would hose clamps be in order?
 
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robinyu
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I expect this is because the two tab are no longer parallel due to being squeezed together so the holes lined up?
Yes,you are right, the center distance of two hole is about 65mm, you need to change it to 40mm, it would not keep parallel.
 
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robinyu
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Is there a lot of tension trying to spring the bars apart?
Yes, a lot of tension, the master who helped me to modify the bar said that he clamps the bar on the vise and must then be welded together to maintain 40mm distance.
 
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robinyu
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There've been a few mentions about small custom bits made for very specific uses. It made me think of getting something like—
good idea, I was think of get one two. but you know, in china, 100 square meter small department, no place to have this thing...
 
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