2002 ST1100 ABS/TCS - front and rear wheel removal???

The bike is on a lift now...
for the front wheel, can I just remove one brake caliper braket, the axle and drop the front wheel or do I need to follow the procedure for removing the wheel like removing the comet, sensors, caliper etc etc?

and for the back wheel, can I just remove the rear caliper bracket, pull the axle and remove the wheel or is it best to follow the manual?

This is my first bike with ABS. On my Wing I would just do the above. With this bike I don't know if I can take short cuts because the bike is up on a lift.

Dan

Front wheel - Remove the right caliper (from the perspective of sitting on the bike) which will free up the abs sensor and then loosen the pinch bolts and remove the axle. Pay attention to the speed drive so you get reinstalled correctly. Getting that caliper back on can be a bit of dance sometimes - it's a close fit. Rear wheel - loosen the rear caliper stopper bolt (I never take it completely out), remove the hanger bolts on each muffler (gives you a little more wiggle room to get the axle out), remove the rear mud guard, loosen the pinch bolt, remove the axle and the rear wheel should move to the left a little to come off the gears and then out.

Uncle Phil said:

Front wheel - Remove the right caliper (from the perspective of sitting on the bike) which will free up the abs sensor and then loosen the pinch bolts and remove the axle. Pay attention to the speed drive so you get reinstalled correctly. Getting that caliper back on can be a bit of dance sometimes - it's a close fit. Rear wheel - loosen the rear caliper stopper bolt (I never take it completely out), remove the hanger bolts on each muffler (gives you a little more wiggle room to get the axle out), remove the rear mud guard, loosen the pinch bolt, remove the axle and the rear wheel should move to the left a little to come off the gears and then out.

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Great, this helps a lot. I have the Honda manual but is there one that would be more user friendly and a good supplement to the Honda manual?
I tell you, it was fun trying to come up with a way to lift the bike with the Craftsman lift. I had an old rusty 1/4 steel plate that I used as a base and used oak 2x's under the motor and under the forward and after runs of the center stand (with the stand in the up position). It's up, strapped down and not going anywhere.

I usually use a short piece of 2x6 or 2x8 across the oil pan and a regular jack to raise the bike up until the rear wheel touches down. If need be, you can easily remove the front half of the fender (assuming you have a ABSII) and the front wheel comes out with no drama. On the rear, it will come out sitting on the center stand. A note when you reinstall the rear - leave the caliper out (I usually bungie it to the grab handles), position the rear wheel, insert the axle and slid the wheel onto the gear 'chunk'. Brace the wheel in this position, slide the axle out, slide the caliper in, reinsert the axle. It makes that whole deal a lot easier. I've got all the manuals (Haynes, Honda, etc.) but seldom refer to them. ;-)
Also on reinstalling both front and rear, torque the axles before you tighten the cinch bolts. And if you do the rear much, look for one of these little dandies in the correct size -

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/32997173?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Hand+Tools+-+PLA_sKY8pE5Qb___164124448772_c_S&mkwid=sKY8pE5Qb|dc&pcrid=164124448772&rd=k&product_id=32997173&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy__kmu3_2AIViz2BCh05SAw_EAQYBCABEgIwwvD_BwE

They are the thing for getting the rear caliper stopped bolt out. Harbor Freight and Sears both carry them, IIRC.

Thanks for the tip and tool idea. I'm going out shortly and will look for one.

Slightly different rear wheel R & R from UP's that I have used. Never needed to loosen/remove the muffler hanger bolts in order to get the axle out, as long as you have the OEM exhaust system. Upon re-install, I just mount the wheel onto the splines, axle still out, then insert the wheel spacer and caliper into position, slide the axle in and wiggle it all until the axle goes through, watching that the spacer doesn't fall out. Don't forget to re-fit the caliper holding bolt before tightening anything up.

I have the OEM Exhaust system on all of mine. I find the 10 seconds or so it takes to remove the two hanger bolts allows the mufflers to move enough so there is a lot less wiggling to do with the axle. It also makes it easier to get the socket on the axle nut. By inserting the axle without the caliper, getting the wheel in the splines is a lot easier and less work for me since it is a 'slide directly on' maneuver instead of a 'lift up and over' maneuver (done it both ways many times). The rate at which I go through tires on three ST1100s, I get lots of experience doing this. ;-) However, YEMV.

I removed the final drive from the swing are today and while doing it I removed the muffler bolt and swung the muffler out of the way. It gave me a lot of space to work.