Is this normal level?

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What pumper said, but also remember to always verify the fluid level with the bike on the center stand and the bars turned in the direction that makes the reservoir level. If not, the level observed will be misleading.
 
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Ouch!!

How much time has elapsed since you knew it was "at level"?

I ask because i check clutch/brake levels each time i board the bikes (oil level, coolant, and tires once a week)
 

BakerBoy

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+1 to other's comments. You may be close to ingesting air into the clutch line.

Long-term leakage is visible around top of the reservoir, as shown by the blistering paint. Looks like an after-market cover, so I'd suggest you also verify the seal/diaphragm is not missing, is in good condition, and installed correctly.
 

Mellow

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Well, it's clean looking so it appears to me someone changed it but just didn't refill correctly. Clutch fluid seems to darken much faster than brake fluid.
 
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Arif
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+1 Baker Boy, top it up to the level with the reservoir level with Dot4 and see if it goes down again.
Upt'North
That's great idea I already bought dot4 fluid I am going to refill tonight and see what happens
 
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Yes bike was on center stand also clutch fluid replaced about 2 years ago
Book says to change brake fluid (clutch too) every two years. Since it's hydroscopic, the moisture absorbed by the fluid will cause corrosion inside the system if you dont change it.
 

Byron

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The fluid level will also drop with clutch wear. Some people are easy on the clutch and they last forever while others can wear them out in short time.
 
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Two years? Needs changing.

Level it out, suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, replace with new DOT 4, bleed system, put it to the correct level, ensure the diaphragm and cover is sealing well, and keep an eye on it.

Look for signs of leakage at the slave cylinder.
 

SupraSabre

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One caution I will make when flushing out the clutch. Because of the way the clutch slave sits in the back of the engine and you have a 6" or so long "purge port" (whatever they are called) you need to keep flushing it even after you start seeing clean fluid coming out.

I did not realize this until after I swapped out my slave unit and could see the corrosion on the slave unit piston.

I have a feeling many are riding on junked up slave units. :eek:4:
 
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One caution I will make when flushing out the clutch. Because of the way the clutch slave sits in the back of the engine and you have a 6" or so long "purge port" (whatever they are called) you need to keep flushing it even after you start seeing clean fluid coming out.

I did not realize this until after I swapped out my slave unit and could see the corrosion on the slave unit piston.

I have a feeling many are riding on junked up slave units. :eek:4:
CRAP! Another missed item.....:doh1:
 
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The fluid level will also drop with clutch wear. Some people are easy on the clutch and they last forever while others can wear them out in short time.
+1
I think I fall into the first category, since I seldom use the clutch other than starting off from a dead stop in 1st gear.
 

T_C

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+1
I think I fall into the first category, since I seldom use the clutch other than starting off from a dead stop in 1st gear.
Me too.... but that's 40 starts in first over 2 miles and I usually never even fully engage first. So even less wear? ;)
 
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I seldom use the clutch other than starting off from a dead stop in 1st gear.
Shifting without the clutch is not terribly difficult, but i don't do it because I don't always get the from/to RPM's right and that feels like stress on the transmission when I don't.

Anyway, I don't think there's much clutch wear shifting gears (other than starting off) unless one "slides" into the new gear without dropping the throttle for an upshift or blipping it for a downshift.
 
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