H4 Headlight bulb replacement instructions for ST1100

Joined
Apr 26, 2014
Messages
33
Location
Central New Jersey
One quick note about the H4 adapter rings. The first time that I used them to replace the Honda original bulbs, I had all of the plastic off the bike, removed the headlight assembly and it was a piece of cake. This past fall I had a bulb fail and just needed to get it replaced. I followed one of the threads on the forum and was able to get the bulb out easily enough through the top near the steering head, however, when I went to put it back in, the adapter plate wouldn't stay attached to the bulb long enough to get it into position and I was having a hell of a time. (My adapters may not grip the bulb assembly as tight as others.) Then I remember how I keep the exhaust gaskets in my Yamaha V-Star 1100. So I put a tiny dab of high-temp RTV on the adapter ring. It held to the H4 bulb long enough to into the proper position. Clamped it it. Problem solved.
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
49
Location
California
Bike
ST1100
STOC #
8882
OK. It is done :)

Thanks to everyone on this thread. I will say that I don't know how anyone can do it with removing stuff. My hands are way to big and my joints just don't go that way. Anyway, I ordered the LEDs from Cindy (great service) and spacers off eBay. I then printed out the instructions for removing the headlight. Pretty easy, just time consuming. And I got to see how it comes apart. Put the lights in, tested and then reassembled. Two hours and that includes going back a couple of times to correct a mistake. I also put the police light mounts on, after painting them.

All in all, a great afternoon. BTW, how do I get an account at my-mc.com
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
80
Location
Graniteville, SC
Will h4bulbs work without shims? If the tabs have to be removed and flattened, can they work without the shims?
I am just curious, I need to upgrade, just started looking and was curious. Bro in law changed them on his 1998 Valk and just cut a tab or so, I was just curious what you experts thought, can it work?
I just had the top plastics off last week installing a horn(Stebel Nautilus) up there and will go that route, I have huge hands and know I need all the help I can get!
Thanks for all the valuable help here, I am not trying to be funny, just asking out of curiosity.
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
2,210
Location
West Michigan
Bike
'98 ST1100
STOC #
8470
Get the shims, it's much easier to use the shims. And they are cheap, even I can afford them. And they can be re-used.

BTW, the first step when replacing the bulbs, is to check the new bulbs to make sure they are good. You could either check the resistance of both filaments or apply 12 volts to see if they both filament are good. You don't to find out that they are bad after you go through the installation of a faulty "new" bulb.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2015
Messages
80
Location
Graniteville, SC
Well, I went Rogue and installed h4 bulbs without shims or any bending. They worked great! Not sure what happened, I went in from the top, I have a light bar so the bottom is not possible for me. I could not see the hole, but I wiggled and twisted until the bulbs dropped into their happy places and they worked great! I did a before and after with a spot of tape on the wall, when I was done it was the same height, just a whole lot more light. I guess it's likely a PO had maybe done the mod with removing and grinding away plastic, not sure, but it had stock bulbs when I pulled them out.
Today was 1st ride in the dark and I am super pleased! I went with mid grade Sylvania bulbs, couldn't spend the big bucks at the time, but I am super pleased with output and quality!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
66
Location
Bryan, Texas
Bike
1999 ST1100
I know this is an old post but...

I am doing the H4 conversion on my 99 ST1100. When I went to take out the old bulbs, they were actually H4 bulbs! They are old though and new ones would be recommended anyway. HOWEVER, I noticed that the last person that install the bulbs just cut a slot for the H4 conversion instead of purchasing shims (goes to show you the last time I changed the bulbs - purchased it in 2008 and still has the same bulbs). Now I don't need shims...???...!!! Is there a down side to this type of H4 conversion (cutting instead of purchasing shims)?

Just wondering.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
Messages
3,519
Location
British Columbia
Bike
2021 RE Meteor 350
I know this is an old post but...

I am doing the H4 conversion on my 99 ST1100. When I went to take out the old bulbs, they were actually H4 bulbs! They are old though and new ones would be recommended anyway. HOWEVER, I noticed that the last person that install the bulbs just cut a slot for the H4 conversion instead of purchasing shims (goes to show you the last time I changed the bulbs - purchased it in 2008 and still has the same bulbs). Now I don't need shims...???...!!! Is there a down side to this type of H4 conversion (cutting instead of purchasing shims)?

Just wondering.
Actually, that is probably better since the bulb is sitting exactly where it is supposed to be in the housing, rather than raised slightly out by the shim process, although I'm sure the difference would be negligible.
 
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
66
Location
Bryan, Texas
Bike
1999 ST1100
Thank you for the input. I looked at it closer and there is a slight rotational difference (about 2 degrees difference). Shouldn't make THAT big of a difference.

Thank you.
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Oxford Mills Ontario, Canada
Bike
2000 ST1100
Hi, the retaining wire fell out. is it easier to remove the entire headlight housing and install the lights? Also I'm installing motoleds do the heatsinkfan sticks out a bit that is why the retaining wire fell off.

Thanks in advance.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,292
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
I just removed the headlight assemblies on all three of my ST1100s to replace the headlight bulbs with the Evitek G6 leds. It takes me about 1 hour to get the assembly out (doing this by memory - ;-)) -
1. Remove saddlebags.
2. Remove the seat.
3. Remove both side panels.
4. Remove Tank cover.
5. Remove both side pockets
6. Remove Windshield.
7. Remove Black Garnish.
8. Remove Gray headlight cover.
9. Remove (or loosen) upper left fairing
10. Remove (or loosen) upper right fairing
11. Unplug the headlight connections.
12. Remove headlight.

A couple of bewares/suggestions -

Get a bunch of small jars/containers so you can 'group' the fasteners by area. Makes reassembly a lot quicker.
There is a bolt up in the 'head' of each upper fairing that attaches the fairing to the bottom of the headlight assembly.
They are a royal pain to remove and to get to unless you have long extensions. Once I get them out, I do not put them back and
have ridden thousands of miles without them!
With the headlights out, you can adjust the wire bail so it seats properly and does not touch the fan.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,292
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
002064
STOC #
698
Just got the last of my three ST1100s changed to the LED headlights. I had a little 'bodywork' repair to do on this one as I found out Honda no longer makes the upper left and right fairing for the ST1100. At least I can't find any new ones anywhere. :(
 
Joined
May 14, 2014
Messages
2
Location
canada
Bike
ST11
this thread still help
THANKS FOR TAKING TIME TO WRITE ALL THIS
REMOVING PLASTIC HELP ME A LOT
 
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