Best Headlight Replacement Bulbs??

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May 4, 2006
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Orlando, Flatistan
I have the Silverstars in there, and just had the dreaded left bulb burnout. I love them. PepBoys has a special this week, limit 2 packages/4 bulbs for the Osram Silverstars, $20.00 after the rebate. I picked another set of H4s and lights for my F350. Now I can just let the skin grow back on my right hand....
 
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Hey Tom, thank you for the complete explanation about the shims. Since I'm really not into removing tupperware, etc., unless I positively must(!!!), I guess I'll get the shims so I have a better chance of getting the bulbs in correctly without having to dismantle anything. Yeah, yeah, guys, just call me lazy, but hey, at 60 I'd rather be riding than playing with tupperware (I can play with the Tupperware when I get too friggin' old to ride!!). :D :D

To summarize what ya'll (I'm in the South now) said:

1. I really don't need the shims, but they help get the bulb in straight.

2. Any standard H4 bulb is going to be better than the stock 45/45 (makes sense to me!).

3. The Osram +50 70/65W is the most highly recommended bulb for both brightness increase and longevity.

4. Followed closely by the Silverstars.

Right? Thank you again. I know I'm :BDH: with this, but hey, with all the knowledge this web forum has I figured I should make use of it and get the lights right the first time!!
Unbelievable!!:hat1: You got it!!! And you welcome!! I'm lazy too, that's why I bought the shims! To bad the ST1300's can't tolarate the 80/100w jobs! It's like riding in the daylight with them! I can see eyes of deer from...well, heck...I don't know how many miles back but it's a whole lot farther than with the OEMS!!!! (Now where did I put that fire extinguisher? Dang dry leaves...:crackup )
 
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I think you summarized it perfectly.

Some have suggested taking a tiny pc of tape to hold the bulb and shim together until you can get it situated and the clip on.

For me getting the clip on can go 1st try or require some creative language and several attemps :)
 

Gonzo

3/4 Century of Trivia
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I couldn't have said it better myself regarding whether the naked eye can percieve the difference. But on the side of being lazy, the trick I used of trimming the top tab (both sides) just a scooch allowed mine to plug in perfectly. Also I do not notice that the beam direction(s) are off in any way.

Now if anyone REALLY wants some candlepower (we lazy slugs can ignore this), they can put in some humoungus wires(#10 maybe) and relays to bypass the anemic OEM wiring problem. Then you could put in Klieg lights or something. Let's hear it for totally blinding that BDC coming at you on high beams. Fry that guy's retinas.

gonzo
 
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Mar 16, 2007
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Rochester, MN
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7015
California Sport Touring sells the Euro-verison Osram Silver Star and the Phillips Vision Plus. Both are highly rated 60/55W H4 lamps and sell for about $27/pair.

I have a pair of USA Sylvania SilverStars in my ST1100 but plan to switch to the Osram when the SS's fail. The SilverStars are also 60/55W but their longevity is questionable and the lighting techies rank the Osram lamps as a better product.

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT

Cal Sport Touring sells the H4 shims for about $10.

HTH, Dave
 

Gug

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Bill - gonna get as many answers to this as hair on a dogs back - I used the Silverstars and loved them - they were an economical choice for me and a ton better than stock. As far as the difference in bulb mounts - the ones on the bike have the locating tabs in a different spot - I clipped the tabs off and installed them without shims - the bulb seats on a lip formed into it - and it worked just fine, in fact I sold the shims I had bought because someone had said they had to be used - Just my 2 cents
Mick
+1 on this with me as well. I haven't used shims and only the left burns out. Lasts about 10K and the original right is still in place at just under 40K now. It actually works nicely with the stock on the right and the brighter one on the left.
 

Gug

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I have the Silverstars in there, and just had the dreaded left bulb burnout. I love them. PepBoys has a special this week, limit 2 packages/4 bulbs for the Osram Silverstars, $20.00 after the rebate. I picked another set of H4s and lights for my F350. Now I can just let the skin grow back on my right hand....
Do the bulb from underneath the fairing, you won't make any skin donations. Just put the bike on the centerstand and turn the wheel you will have plenty of room. A good theng to do before putting the bulb in place is a dry run without it to get comfortable with the clip that retains the bulb. Then it is easy.
 
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What's with Mother Honda and all of these left-side bulb burnouts??? My '93 ST1100 has only burned out left side bulbs over the years (total of 3, I recall). But still not as common as all of those late-model Chevy and GMC trucks you see on the road with only one running light working.
 
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I'll throw this in..... I think the shims have a cutout in the bottom to accomodate a dimple formation on the bottom of some bulbs. If this doesn't allow the bulb to sit flat, then it will be tilted downward, reflecting your light upward. I think some of you have experienced this.
As for Silverstars, I used GE Nighthawks in my V-Strom, then transferred them to the ST. IMO, just as good a light as Silverstars and they last!!
 
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ParkerBill
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I sent an email to Daniel Stern Lighting and asked him several questions. You may find his responses interesting. Key points.

1. I mentioned something about the DOT having a restriction of 90W on bulbs in individual housings. His reply, and I paraphrase: There is no such
90W DOT limitation on headlamp wattage, though various rumors of limitations like this are quite persistent on the internet.

2. I asked him about shim thickness being a problem by pushing the bulb rearward a little. His reply and again I paraphrase: Those shims, despite claims to the contrary, screw up the beam focus by moving the bulb filaments axially rearward.

He says the only right way to do it is by doing the http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/H4mod.html modification on the lamp sockets. Have any of you done this? What are your thoughts?

By the way he did recommend the Osram 70/65W +50 lamps in one or both sides.

Your thoughts?
 
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I'll throw this in..... I think the shims have a cutout in the bottom to accomodate a dimple formation on the bottom of some bulbs. If this doesn't allow the bulb to sit flat, then it will be tilted downward, reflecting your light upward. I think some of you have experienced this.
As for Silverstars, I used GE Nighthawks in my V-Strom, then transferred them to the ST. IMO, just as good a light as Silverstars and they last!!
Unbelievable!:hat1: Here we go again! Yes the shims are designed such that the bulb sits flat just as if they were OEM bulbs! No issues there!

I sent an email to Daniel Stern Lighting and asked him several questions. You may find his responses interesting. Key points.

1. I mentioned something about the DOT having a restriction of 90W on bulbs in individual housings. His reply, and I paraphrase: There is no such
90W DOT limitation on headlamp wattage, though various rumors of limitations like this are quite persistent on the internet.

2. I asked him about shim thickness being a problem by pushing the bulb rearward a little. His reply and again I paraphrase: Those shims, despite claims to the contrary, screw up the beam focus by moving the bulb filaments axially rearward.

He says the only right way to do it is by doing the http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/H4mod.html modification on the lamp sockets. Have any of you done this? What are your thoughts?

By the way he did recommend the Osram 70/65W +50 lamps in one or both sides.

Your thoughts?
Unbelievable!:hat1: Concerning the shims, Danial stern is all wet! Were it that you were close by you could see my headlamp and the way it lights things up! The repositioning of the bulbs is so minute that you would not notice it except if perhaps you were using an 45/45 watt bulb like the OEM! Like I said earlier The brightness of the replacement automotive bulb negates, by far, any realignment of the bulbs!! The human eye can not see the difference. Again, if only you could see mine in action. The difference from the OEM bulbs to the ones I have is literally night and day! Yes even with the shims! I've read all about that headlamp housing modification and it's all good if you want to go to all that trouble but I can't figure out why you would want to if your eyes will not see the difference anyway???

IMHO!
 
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ParkerBill
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Hey Tom, I believe you!! :) I was just passing along Mr. Stern's paraphrased comments for all to see and/or comment on. Personally, while I think I can do the mod without a lot of problems, it does require some dismantling of the bike to get the lamp holder out and there would be a risk of damaging the holder if not real careful. From what you are saying about the difference not being noticable it doesn't seem like the modification results are worth the effort.

Thanks again.
 
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I currently have my whole fairing, headlight off the bike. Perfect time to do that mod, but it sounds like folks think it is completely unnecessary?

While stuff is apart, what else could I attack? Maybe the Stebel horn?
 
Joined
May 31, 2007
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Comox Valley, BC
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A timely discussion. Storage time is coming and am considering the shims/H4s for my ST13 as a winter project. Did so on the ST11 with no problems. Can't really remember how long the shims/H4s were in the ST11, but it was years. Never had a bulb burn out. A definite improvement in light. Tend to lean toward Unbeliever's opinion - the shims change the position of the bulb, but it is insignificant.

Thanks for bring up the question.
 

Mark

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I use shims; but, definitely the Stebel if you're doing electrical or just need to get started on electrical additions!


Mark
 
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