Article [11] ST1100 - Xtralight HID H4 Bi-Xenon conversion kit Install

SilverSTreak

Bill Royal
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
211
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
1137
OK, finally have my Xtralight HID kits installed and working with the bike all buttoned up. Only thing left to do is check/adjust the aim.

Although this project appears simple, and isn't too bad - you are playing with a LOT of $$$ worth of purchase that if you make a mistake it could cost you. So, take you time - measure twice, cut once and pay heed to the following:

READ the attached Xtralight RMA pdf for details. They have a lot of disclaimers regarding defective part/warranty claims. Based on this I would STRONGLY urge you to at least test the lights BEFORE removing them from their protective covers. This can be done by assembling the one connector, then unplugging the connector on the back of the stock bulbs and plugging it into the appropriate Xtralight connector and plugging in the HID lamp to the ballast then turning on the key. The light should light - if not, DO NOT remove the light from the protective housing. make sure ALL the connectors are making solid contact - I ALMOST sent one ballast back after I had plugged it in and undone it at least twice - only on the third try - just before I was going to send it back did it suddenly work - and I am SURE it was one of the two HV connectors that was the problem.

Pre-Install:

The kit came with one box containing two other boxes. One of the Bulb in its protector and the other was the ballast and harness.

Ballast Box Contents -

The RED & BLACK wires are where you will be crimping on the connector pins

Lamp Box Contents -

There are extra pins and even an extra connector - don't know why either... You only need two pins and one connector shown in above picture

The first thing you'll need to do is to assemble the one connector that isn't already made - I don't know why they didn't do this already, but you'll need to do this even if only to test out the system before modifying/installing anything else. Use a good crimping tool - strip the wires, crip on the pins and then insert them into the connector (they should be oriented so that the crimped side of the pon faces in on the connector in order to lock in place. Be sure to insert them fully. Also, be SURE you have to polarity correct - the red to red, black to black...

Close-up of crimped wires in pins


Showing tool used to crimp, the crimped pins and the amount I stripped off the ends.


When I inserted the pins into the connector and then tried to plug it into it's mate I found the same problem as Joe Z did - the pins wanted to push back out. Upon close examination, I found that the pins were angled slightly towards the center of the connector so they weren't going into the female pins and thus pushing out. I used a needle nose plier to bias the pins outward a bit - and after I did that they slid together cleanly with no problems pushing back out. Joe used hot glue - your call.

At this point I would assemple all the connectors together and then plug the stock lamp supply plug into the one from the kit for a quick test - better to ensure your lamps are functional now while you haven't modified them and can still send them back...

Once you are confident they work, now comes the REAL work...

I strongly remcommend that you pull the headlight housing out of the bike completely - yes that means a fair bit of work to remove the upper fairing panels, but it is the only way to ensure that you get the bulbs seated and secured properly - I do not believe that would be possible trying to do so with the housing still in the bike.

Here's what the removed housing looks like with the stock bulbs still in it: (Looking down at back with the bottom of the housing at the top of the photo with protective boots removed)






This next photo shows the supplied HID lamp with the two tabs that need to be removed already cut off (I used a diagonal cutter) - note: DON'T CUT off the wrong tab! The one that needs to stay is wider than the other two. Note the adapter ring also in photo





Now for the hardest part - the real surgery of the HID lamp...

This photo shows the adapter ring over the HID lamp and you can see how it won't sit flat -


I made sure the adapter ring was centered on the remaining tab and then used a box cutter to score the base of the HID lamp so I could see what needed to be cut off. I did my first one with a dremel - works, but is slow going and maks a mess of plastic flakes ( I was working in the kitchen so wifey wasn't too happy) When I got close, I switched to a hand file and ended up with a nice tight fit. On the 2nd bulb I tried to cheat a bit and used a hacksaw to cut - it wasn't as precise and the fit of the adapter ring wasn't as tight. You'll have to decide how you want to cut. Also, I wrapped the HID capsule (bulb part) in paper towel secured by scotch tape to prevent any contamination of the bulb. If your hand touches the glass you HAVE to clean the capsule with alcohol else the oils from your hand WILL cause premature failure of the bulb!

Here's the finished product


Then, installed into the housing:





This one shows a nice close-up of the surgery site and the adapter ring and bulb all installed in the housing.



In order to fit the rubber boot back over the HID you'll have to cut the core section -


Then CAREFULLY put the three wires.connectors through the boot and then work it over the end and finally into place.

Finshed HID's mounted in housing -


This is what mine looked like when I tested it and found one bulb not working



Your's may look different. That's my Audiovox Cruise control servo on the left and its associated wiring as well as some for my GPS. I tried to route the HV wires from the ballasts - as well as the ballasts themselves - away from the clock, and servo so as to not chance any interference.

Here it is almost all buttoned up. The canister is my cruise control vacuum resevoir. It all just fit!


A couple of other notes: I used a dab of plumbers silicone grease on the ribbed connector boots to help them slip together easier. They are really tight otherwise. Also, I had a problem with one bulb not lighting initially., I switched ballasts and it worked leading me to think it was the ballast. I tired one last time and it suddenly worked - so if you have a problem be sure to go back ansd re-seat the connectors - especially the booted HV ones.
And the finished product
 
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juddspaintballs

Dual Sport Touring
Joined
Nov 14, 2007
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519
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38
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Berkeley Springs, WV
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KTM 1090 Adventure R
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nice writeup!

for a second i thought i was staring at my bike. same color and windscreen, i have a givi rack with no box on the back, and a GPS mounted like that with RAM mounts. i must be secretly copying you
 

jnsgardner

R.I.P. - 2012/08/30
Rest In Peace
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Scripps Ranch, San Diego, CA
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'05 ST-1300A
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Joe and Bill... Thank you, Thank you for your words and pictures. I read them both and now have a very clear picture of what's ahead. If I can build a Tomahawk cruise missile, I ought to be able to do this.
A question... was any thought given to upping the fuse's amp rating for the lights to something higher?

John
 

jnsgardner

R.I.P. - 2012/08/30
Rest In Peace
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315
Location
Scripps Ranch, San Diego, CA
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'05 ST-1300A
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5410
Regarding my above thread about higher fuses, Eastern Beaver has a kit to lead more... or better power to the lights. Does anyone see a need for this or would it just be overkill? Is the stock setup just fine for the HIDs?

John
 
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SilverSTreak

SilverSTreak

Bill Royal
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
211
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
1137
John,

re:
Regarding my above thread about higher fuses, Eastern Beaver has a kit to lead more... or better power to the lights. Does anyone see a need for this or would it just be overkill? Is the stock setup just fine for the HIDs?

John
No need. These HID's actually are only 35 Watts each, vs. the 55 each of the stock bulbs. So thy actually draw LESS current than the originals - yet because they are HID - they produce 300% more light.
 

1953andrejrigol

Andy The Magnificent
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
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70
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Machias, Maine
So, in summary you gained what kind of Lumens/Wattage/lights and "spread" or focus.. Can you/will you try to tell me what the big goal/reward was out of this and what it cost? Brand? Thanks
Andy
RESPECTFULLY
08'
 
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SilverSTreak

SilverSTreak

Bill Royal
Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
211
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
1137
RE:

So, in summary you gained what kind of Lumens/Wattage/lights and "spread" or focus.. Can you/will you try to tell me what the big goal/reward was out of this and what it cost? Brand? Thanks
I have yet to get any decent photos showing the differences, but here are my observations:

1. My digital voltage meter shows an increase of .2 volts - indicating to me the reduced amperage draw, thus leaving more available for heated vests, gloves and the like. These bulbs are 30W each vs.. the 50W each of the stock bulbs. Despite the 20W reduction, they claim to be 300% brighter. I have no way to actually measure that, but I would say they appear to be at least twice as bright as the stock bulbs.

2. I have noted that drivers planning on entering my right of way have begun stopping/slowing more often/sooner. Even if they still plan to run out in front of me they clearly are thinking twice about it. Also when riding in a group leaders report me to be easy to see but not annoying. Definite safety improvement.

3. They are MUCH brighter and whiter than stock bulbs so they definitely do a better overall job of illumination. I clearly feel much more confident riding at night, especially so on the unlit back roads with no moonlight.

I have had them on now for over 10K miles and have only been "flashed" for brights once - then with the bike heavily loaded for a trip - so I might have needed to adjust them lower due to the load angling them up a bit.

The cost and brand was addressed in earlier posts. I am generally kinda frugal, but I have found these to be worth the cost and effort, even though I do not ride much after dark. The visibility and power conservation make them a good buy in my assessment.

Lastly, I reported in previous posts problems with one bulb going out. Since then they have been fine. I believe it was the high voltage connector that others have also reported as an occasional issue, but it appears that once it is "broken in" it's OK.
 
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