Article [13] ST1300 - 1st Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
I completed some needed maintenance on the '04 ST this weekend, after 11.3k miles. This was my first time with all the fairing removed and tank+airbox removed, and getting it disassembled & reassembled properly seemed as significant as the actual maintenance! I found lots of good information on this forum...an example being to ensure that fuel was down to 1 bar. :bow1:

Sorry for the long post, but I thought I'd describe some of the things noted during the work. I'd changed the tires, done oil/filter changes, and performed clutch/brake fluid flushes on this bike, but this was my first time diving this deep with this bike. Hopefully some of you out there who may be on the fence about doing similar work yourself may benefit from some of these points and can then decide for yourself that it is doable. I used the Honda ST1300 service manual, plus the coolant and thermostat procedures found on this site.

During disassembly I put all the fasteners/screws/rivets back into their original holes and taped over them. I also labeled all parts/fairing pieces as L or R before hanging them out of the way for the service.


Coolant changout. After going to numerous hardware stores and auto shops, I didn't find an alternate source for the 6.5mm copper drain bolt washer so I bought a handful at a Honda motorcycle shop for $2.74 each. I also bought the Honda automotive "Type 2" 50/50 premix coolant, in faST blue for $12.92 (FYI, Acura sells the exact same coolant at the same price).

As many of you have experienced, getting that large hose off the radiator inlet was quite a chore. And when it comes free coolant splashes everywhere. I felt prepared with lots of towels, floor paper, and drain pans, but coolant still went everywhere, including when the block drain bolts were removed. Most of it was cleaned up by the time I took this picture:
3896.jpg

After draining the system, I pulled the radiator and cleaned it out in the kitchen sink (wife didn't know ;) )--lots of bug goo on the outside, and black paint was peeling off inside of the connections. An example of that paint is seen here:
3900.jpg

The overflow bottle had a fine grit with some translucent scale/flakes in it...looked a bit like hard water deposits you could scrape off a faucet aerator. That stuff came out of the overflow bottle with some shaking, but I wondered how much was left inside the engine.
3899.jpg
3898.jpg

After reinstalling, reconnecting, and washing the coolant off the engine surfaces, I filled it up with distilled water and ran it up to temperature to flush it more fully. It was surprising how much additional color (residual coolant) and some debris came out when I drained the distilled water. An extra step, but it appeared worth it.

Thermostat changeout. The existing thermostat was still working properly; a picture of it and original o-ring before removal are shown below (note the debris around the thermostat and the dried coolant around the exterior of the o-ring). But after seeing what was in the coolant, the overflow bottle, and on the old thermostat, I installed a new TurboCity thermostat I'd just ordered on speculation. The thermostat housing cover had been leaking past the o-ring seal (see 2nd picture below, taken before opening the housing), among other leaks. And the new o-ring provided with the TurboCity thermostat appeared to be of proper size, but both the old and new o-rings just 'seem' skinny for the application. I used two dabs of clear RTV silcone sealant on the new o-ring when putting it back together...time will tell if it stays sealed. I will be finding and acquiring a slightly thicker o-ring on speculation that I'll be back in there soon. I would have purchased a stock Honda seal to have on hand, but I waited too long to inquire and they were not 'stock' items. IMHO, The stock 43.5x2mm o-ring may need to be 2.5 or 3mm thick.
3903.jpg
3906.jpg

Search for Coolant Leaks. For perspective, I'd only needed to add 1 cup or so of coolant over the years so I wasn't concerned. Yet, several leaks were found, all in 'the abyss' below the carb bodies. You can see one such leak in the background in the photo immediately above. A couple leaks had very loose hose clamps, and a couple leaks were at connections where there were sufficiently tight hose clamps. As shown above, the thermostat housing cover was also leaking. I found no leaks at the water pump or water pump hose connections. As others have surmised, based on the trail of dried coolant down the front of the engine, it would be easy to mis-diagnose that the water pump seal was leaking.

Fuel Pressure Regulator. The TurboCity FPR went in nicely, good instructions provided with it. Only a teaspoon or so of gas dripped out during the swap--but I had the fuel level very low in the lower tank. My goal in installing it was to lessen that abrupt power surge when cracking the throttle.

Starter Valve Synch. The air funnel base screws came out without any problem using an impact screwdriver. While there, I readjusted the throttle cable play by transferring the adjustments I'd made over the years from the upper expansion nut set (by the hand-grip) down to the cable slack adjustment at the carb bodies (seen at the top left of the throttle bodies in the picture below). The bigger challenge was getting the small vacuum lines off of that 5-way vacuum connector--the factory installed vacuum line length was short enough to make that task difficult. After warming up the bike, cylinders 2 & 3 had slight higher vacuum than 1, and 4 was slightly lower than 1. A couple clicks of the adjustment screws and it balanced out. By the way, I use a Morgan Carbtune Pro for the synch.
3907.jpg
3908.jpg

Counter Balancers Adjusted. I followed the instructions, finding that they were about right to begin with. Honestly, I had a tough time hearing the 'whine' side of adjustment, but hearing the 'rough, gravelly' side was easy enough.

Miscellany. The spring clamp (item 26) at the bottom of the short, large fuel hose betwen the upper and lower tank was very difficult to get set properly when reinstalling the upper fuel tank . The service manual calls for that hose (item 8) and spring clamp to be replaced...I'll have to plan for that next time. Do any of you out there replace those every time? Or have an alternative?

I find that the 4 lower fairing plastic rivets which hang down under the fairing get beat up quickly by rock hits & heat (and coolant dripping on them may embrittle them), so a couple years ago I'd improvised a zip-tie that fastens the 2 lower fairings and 2 middle cowls where they come together. The zip-tie held well and I found that it was all that held the fairing together when I started disassembling the bike for this service. So I again used a zip tie, but also used 2 new plastic rivets and I'll watch closer this time to see whether those rivets survive this time around without coolant dripping on them.
3909.jpg

The radiator has taken a number of hard impacts, one in particular probably would have led to a leak if it had hit just a 1/4" lower. I spent quite a bit of time straightening out the fins, and doing that convinced me to get a new grill/guard shortly.

I didn't have suspicion that I'd feel a huge improvement in performance as the bike has continued to run very good since new. After getting the bike reassembled and then test riding it yesterday, the power surge does seems to be a bit softer, and overall it feels a bit smoother. That softer response is probably from the combination of starter valve synch, counter balancer adj, and new FPR.

Sometime later this summer is another set of tires, another brake/clutch fluid flush, and the dreaded valve clearance check (that's the one I'm not looking forward to).

I did similar service on my V-Strom a couple weeks ago, so now both the MiSTress and PaSTromi are good for lotsa miles! :D
 
Last edited:

NoBull

Twisties are your friend
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
595
Location
Golden,Colorado
Bike
CRF450X
STOC #
7094
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Thanks, Im not too far off so this is good timing...Im ready to start part and info collecting. I will tear into it right after Moonshine..
 

John Anthony

Moderator
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Messages
2,141
Location
Seattle
Bike
'03 ST1300A
STOC #
5107
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Nicely done! Nothing like a little pre-Spring cleaning to get you road-ready! A TT radiator guard is a good investment and easy to install. I also replaced my stock 'stat with a TT unit earlier this Winter. I was a little anxious at the smaller diameter O-ring and opted to get one of the Honda rings from my dealer who had one in stock. The thinner one will probably do fine, but I figured the $2.50 additional was probably good insurance.

John
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
97
Location
Philippines
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

That was one detailed instruction.... Thanks for sharing...!!!
 

Blrfl

Natural Rider Enhancement
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
5,689
Age
55
Location
Northern Virginia
Bike
Fast Blue One
STOC #
4837
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

After going to numerous hardware stores and auto shops, I didn't find an alternate source for the 6.5mm copper drain bolt washer so I bought a handful at a Honda motorcycle shop for $2.74 each.
I was going to run outside an measure one for you when you posted the other day and it somehow slipped through the cracks. When you run out of Honda washers, the closest replacement I could find is McMaster-Carr P/N 98044A224, which is around $11 for a pack of 25. Keep one of the baggies your Honda washers come in and you'll have a nice place to store them with the part number pre-marked.

As many of you have experienced, getting that large hose off the radiator inlet was quite a chore. And when it comes free coolant splashes everywhere.
Tip for next time: Hold a funnel under the radiator hose and point the nozzle at your catch pan. It still splashes, but you won't feel like you should be building an ark.

Sometime later this summer is another set of tires, another brake/clutch fluid flush, and the dreaded valve clearance check (that's the one I'm not looking forward to).
If you're comfortable with everything you just did, the valve check will be a cakewalk.

--Mark
 
OP
OP
BakerBoy

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

I was going to run outside an measure one for you when you posted the other day and it somehow slipped through the cracks. When you run out of Honda washers, the closest replacement I could find is McMaster-Carr P/N 98044A224, which is around $11 for a pack of 25. Keep one of the baggies your Honda washers come in and you'll have a nice place to store them with the part number pre-marked.

Tip for next time: Hold a funnel under the radiator hose and point the nozzle at your catch pan. It still splashes, but you won't feel like you should be building an ark.

If you're comfortable with everything you just did, the valve check will be a cakewalk.
--Mark
Thanks for the suggestions Mark--great info. Regarding the valve check, I should have been more clear in that I will be a bit anxious if a shim change is required. :eek::
 

Tor

Making Life A Ride
Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
1,883
Age
64
Location
Out in the sticks of NE SC
Bike
R1200 GSA / S1000XR
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Nice writeup. Since you got the tank off during the sync, how do you feed the pig during the sync?
 
OP
OP
BakerBoy

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Tor, it runs without the upper tank installed as long as there's fuel in the lower tank (one blinky bar on fuel gage).

Make sure to plug the large gas scavenger lines per the sync procedure, or it will run differently.

One minor inconvenience is that the ECU registers a fault (displayed via the FI light in the dash) because the connection to the air temperature sensor in the air box is open at that point.

Attention: For anyone reading this thread: make sure that there is nothing loose that can drop down into those throttle bodies! T'would be bad to ingest anything through the intake valves! It is a good practice to stuff a rag down each throttle body the first moment they're exposed during disassembly. And of course, remove those rags before starting the bike!

I like Highrider's improvement to access the 5-way vacuum connector, seen in this thread.

After reassembly, there's a FI fault in the ECU that must be reset... The service manual describes the reset well (if there's a thread here, I can't locate it at the moment).

-John
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
BakerBoy

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Fast forward one year... Time for that 16k valve check and some other needed maintenance.

One year ago it had 11.3kmi on it, this year 17.2k. :eek:: I don't get as much ride time as I'd like on it or the VStrom, but hey, they're in great shape!

Here's a [long] followup from last year and notes/items from this year's service. Although I've got a Tech Day at my place shortly, I wanted to dive in both to learn at a slower pace and also to get more service done than can be accomplished while trying to host a tech day.

Search for Coolant Leaks. I was startled by a big puddle under a couple months ago when I ran it up to temperature on a cold day. And I've smelled that coolant a time or two at stop lights. So I know I had to dive back in even though over the last year, it lost only about a cup of coolant. During last weekend's service, I found the streaking shown below on the engine. A bit of hunting around and I found the source of the leak (I think). The hose clamp was relatively tight, but I added some more "tight" to it. Even if it continues to drip a bit, I'm not going to worry.
B1038a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Coolant streaks.jpg
B1046a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Leaky coolant line under throttle bodies.jpg

Thermostat. A year ago I replaced the factory thermostat speculatively after seeing the debris in the coolant. Over the last year the replacement Turbo City thermostat has functioned well, but on a Tag trip a couple weeks ago I was surprised that it took almost 20 miles to get to 3 bars on the temperature gage. It was 24?F at the time and I was at freeway speed, but I thought it should have risen to 3 bars quickly anyway. Mileage remains very good 48-53 averages...but I'll keep watching it for any adverse signs of sticking.

Warm Stutter at Low RPM. Last summer I had a few occasions that the bike would stutter and lurch with cracked throttle, but only when the bike was very warm. I have not traced the source of this behavior, but I was concerned that there may have been a damaged a vacuum line, a cracked 5-way vacuum connector (item 17), or possibly no longer have sufficient fuel pressure at the fuel rails when the throttle is barely cracked. On inspection of the lines this weekend I found no obvious cause. I rechecked starer valve synch and only had to make a couple notches of adjustment on a couple cylinders. I also replaced the spark plugs this time as they were due for replacement. But I have identified nothing obvious to explain the stutter. If the stutter is still there on warm days, I'll reinstall the original Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if that makes a difference.

Rerouted Throttle Body Synch Vacuum Lines. I rerouted the lines as shown below for easier line removal from the 5-way vacuum connector. Not only did this make the synch easier, but I think it helps reduce the risk of damaging something like the injector wiring/connections, MAP sensor, or starter valve linkage while trying to break/make the vacuum connections in their former location. In the picture below, the yellow, red, green, and white zip strips on each vacuum line indicate which cylinder the line attaches to; white=#1 cylinder, green=#2, red=#3, and yellow=#4.
B1064a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Throttle bodies after rerouting vacuum lines.jpg

Valve Checks. The main reason for the service...the bikes first valve check (and my first time doing one). Sorry I took no pictures during the checks as my hands were too oily. But I did get pictures of the bike ready for cam cover removal...I pulled aside the wire bundles and coils to make the cam cover removal and installation quite easy.
B1049a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Ready for cam cover removal.jpg
B1050a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Ready for cam cover removal.jpg

Once I unbolted the covers, a gentle sideways bump with the palm broke the gasket seal and the covers lifted right off. I did find some RTV silicone dabs hanging inside the engine around the cam cover seal as shown at the red arrows in the picture below--the factory apparently applied a little too much.
B1051a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Excess factory RTV Silicone found at cam cover gasket joint.jpg

While doing the valve check, I followed the service manual, hopping from one side of the bike to the other to go through cylinders 1-2-3-4 in order performing the 90-270-90-270? crankshaft rotation watching all the L-IN, L-EX, R-IN, and R-EX marks on the cam and the T1-T2 marks on the timing ring. The service manual describes the timing and cam marks well enough that the procedure was easy. I used crazykz's spreadsheet to record the data (see post 22).

When I finished the checks and looked at the valve clearance numbers, I decided to run through the checks again, recording the gaps again as a crosscheck to be sure I made no mistake. But this time, I chose to reorder the checks to 1-3-2-4 with 360? rotations between each (ensuring all the cam and timing marks were correct of course). Doing that actually sped up the process for me because I wasn't moving my lighting, paper, knee pad, and feeler gages back and forth from one side of the bike to the other.

All valves were found in spec, and many were in the middle of spec range. Two valves were at spec limits: 1 exhaust valve was at lower limit (tight clearance between bucket and cam) and 1 inlet valve at upper limit (loose clearance between bucket and cam). But after contemplating it for a bit, I decided not to pull the cams and change the shims. As I've got all the dimensions recorded, I'll redo the valve check about a year from now to see if there's any change.

I had read on this forum of a little challenge getting the valve cam covers installed without pinching the rubber dam from under the throttle bodies. But I had no trouble with that...I believe that was because I had pulled the wire looms and coils up out of the way so that the covers weren't interfering with other 'stuff' during reinstallation.

Lubed Windshield Track. I pulled apart the upper fairing and headlight fairing to expose the track, motor, and cabling. But removing the windshield cowl (item 3) was surprisingly difficult. I have the Honda mirror wind deflector set installed, and I found that the double-stick automotive tape on the uppermost pieces of the wind deflector firmly hold that windshield cowl in place even with all fasteners removed. So I had to cut through the double-stick tape to free up the windshield cowl.

My first impression on seeing the drive mechanism is that it sure does look undersized. I used DuPont Teflon Spray and cleaned the tracks numerous times, and got a deep black grime off of them. The black grime wasn't stiff like an old dried out grease, and there wasn't an excess of the grime, but it was definitely well used and dirty. After finishing the track cleaning and lubing, it was noticeably faster. It appears a good idea to make that a yearly service.

Muffler Bands. I was unable to get one bolt loosened sufficiently in the exhaust band last summer during a tire replacement, finally breaking the bolt. And the other band had begun to gall threads. So I replaced the one band having the broken bolt (see picture below). I removed the other band and chased the threads on both the bolts and the nuts welded into the bands, and now it seems good as new. I put a small amount of white lithium grease on each bolt before reassembly on hopes that the bolts are more easily removeable next time. And next time, I'll also WD40 the bolts before attempting to remove them.
B1048a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Broken bolt in muffler band.jpg

Ground Wires. I found several ground wires starting to chafe against a support bracket, pictured below. Although the rusty color looks like exposed copper, the wire insulation was in tact and the coloration appeared to be rust from the bracket. This bracket is underneath the rear of the upper fuel tank, and it appears that the hoses from the fuel tank press these ground wires against the frame. I put a couple wraps of thick black fabric electrician's tape over the chafe.
B1028a ST1300 20009-03-07 Service Ground Wire Chafing.jpg

Other services done. I did a lot of other services, some ahead of schedule, but is easily done with the tupperware off:
-- engine oil & filter
-- rear gearbox oil
-- new spark plugs
-- new air breather filter -- the original was quite dirty and should have been replaced last year
-- clutch & brake fluid changed/bled
-- lubed center & sidestand pressure points -- including spring wear points

Miscellany. I was surprised that there was no computer system fault when reconnecting everything after this service. Last year, on reassembling the bike, the FI indicated a fault which I reset after starting the bike the first time. This time, not. :shrug1:

I bought the fuel tank hose and spring clamps (items 8, 24, & 26) recommended by Honda to be replaced anytime the tank is removed... To my surprise the new hose was about an inch shorter than the original, so I didn't use it. But I did use a new lower spring clamp this time and it made the task much easier than holding open the old spring clamp while simultaneously trying to move the clamp over the hose.

For those who have bought a new one of those spring clamps, it has the clamp held open by a clip. Warning: you better have that clamp in the right spot when you pull off the clip! It snaps onto the hose with a startling amount of power. Sorry I didn't take a picture of the new clamp with clip before using it.

The above took me about 16 hours on Saturday and Sunday, excluding the fairing removal and reinstall. Whew my back and fingers are sore just thinking about all the work. But a good sense of accomplishment. :)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
885
Age
59
Location
Halifax, PA
Bike
2006 ST1300
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

WOW! excellent write-up! Thanks! I still have to do the sync. when I do I'll add the long hoses like you.

On the muffler bands I went to Tru Value and got stainless bolts then installed them with grease. I'll know at next tire change if it worked.

What's with the shorter fuel hose??? Wonder if it's an update so it doesn't rupture as easily.
 

st13fundred

Blue:The color of which place?
Joined
Apr 22, 2007
Messages
123
Location
Beaverton, OR
Bike
'04 ST13A
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

WOW! excellent write-up!
Ditto!

On the muffler bands I went to Tru Value and got stainless bolts then installed them with grease. I'll know at next tire change if it worked.
IMHO, the appropriate lube would be anti-seize compound that is brushed onto the threads. It is rated for much higher temperature range (i.e. we're talkin' muffler/exhaust temps. here) than common grease (which will probably melt off and go away). I'm taking my rear wheel off today, so I'll find out if the anti-seize worked from a year ago.

Matt
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
BakerBoy

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Ditto!

IMHO, the appropriate lube would be anti-seize compound that is brushed onto the threads. It is rated for much higher temperature range (i.e. we're talkin' muffler/exhaust temps. here) than common grease (which will probably melt off and go away). I'm taking my rear wheel off today, so I'll find out if the anti-seize worked from a year ago.

Matt
Thanks gents for the kind words.

Matt, I didn't have any antisieze, but the lithium in the white lithium grease survives a moderately elevated temperature and still provides a lubed surface.

As you all may know, if you do use a grease or antisieze, don't torque the bolts "as much" because you'll over tension the bolts. I don't recall the rule of thumb...but I'd guess about 75% of normal torque and you'll still have plenty of tension in the bolts. :D
 
Last edited:

st13fundred

Blue:The color of which place?
Joined
Apr 22, 2007
Messages
123
Location
Beaverton, OR
Bike
'04 ST13A
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

As you all may know, if you do use a grease or antisieze, don't torque the bolts "as much" because you'll over tension the bolts. I don't recall the rule of thumb...but I'd guess about 75% of normal torque and you'll still have plenty of tension in the bolts. :D
I hadn't heard that before, but it does make sense because it would make things tighten "easier" (for lack of better words) . Thanks.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2005
Messages
14
Location
ON Cda
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Thank you BakerBoy.

I was looking for some pics to ad, you were mentioning.
Hopefully these will be useful to someone out there.
Let's hope this works..

#7333 shows fuel line arrangement cuz many times I hear about pinched lines

- others show indent of original clamps and the positioning. I looked for abrasion as per the factory orientation of the clamps, didn't see any anywhere, so duplicated them exactly again. So far so good.

I have to do much of the service you have shown here soon, so thanks for pics and commentary.
 

Attachments

Joined
Aug 23, 2008
Messages
21
Location
Owen Sound, Ont. Canada
Bike
2004 st abs
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

I was not happy with the "o" ring from the "Turbo City" thermostate, and was also not happy with the stock "o" ring. I thought it was a little thin.
A slightly thicker "o" ring in standard is 132 3/32 and cost .25c it made a nice fit.
Laurens
 
OP
OP
BakerBoy

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Thank you BakerBoy.

I was looking for some pics to ad, you were mentioning.
Hopefully these will be useful to someone out there.
Let's hope this works..

#7333 shows fuel line arrangement cuz many times I hear about pinched lines

- others show indent of original clamps and the positioning. I looked for abrasion as per the factory orientation of the clamps, didn't see any anywhere, so duplicated them exactly again. So far so good.

I have to do much of the service you have shown here soon, so thanks for pics and commentary.
Thanks for your pics of those hoses and spring clamps. That last pic shows the red clip on a new spring clamp...that was the picture I should have included. :)

I was not happy with the "o" ring from the "Turbo City" thermostate, and was also not happy with the stock "o" ring. I thought it was a little thin.
A slightly thicker "o" ring in standard is 132 3/32 and cost .25c it made a nice fit.
Laurens
Laurens, that sounds like a good find! Would you be able to post a link to one? Thanks.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,642
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
006739
STOC #
6651
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Excellent post!

I might have misunderstood something about "removing" muffler band bolts. I have only had to loosen the bolts a turn or so in order to slide the mufflers completely out or simply rotate them outward when removing the rear wheel or related maintenance. Complete removal of the bolts is unnecessary. After 3 years and many loosenings of said bolts I fortunately have not had a problem nor had to apply anti seize compound.
 
OP
OP
BakerBoy

BakerBoy

It's all small stuff.
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
5,454
Location
Golden, Colorado
STOC #
1408
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

Dave, good catch...you're right, there is no reason to remove the bolt from the band. I too was only trying to loosen the band enough to get the muffler out of the gasket/band, but in doing so, one bolt turned only ~1/4 turn before breaking off and the other was galling. I'll correct the sentence in my post. :)
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,642
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
006739
STOC #
6651
Re: First Significant Service: Coolant, Thermostat, Starter Valve Synch, & Other

It might be the frequency I am wearing out rear tires that means the bolts are not left in place for long periods of time hence they are easy to loosen?
 
Top Bottom