ST1100 Shock

At 99,500 miles my stock shock seems a little soft. I don't want to spend $500 on the shock. Who is satisified with to Honda shock.

Keith,

I am in San Antonio at my cousins, 53 miles from Bandera, start of the Hill Country. Just did 330 miles on 16, 336, 337, etc. Dirt for about 8-10 miles between Leaky and Vanderpool, not real bad, they are not yet in the twistie section.

In addition to the rear soft shock, the front needs some firming up, hit bottom pretty hard on one of those cattle guards. I have parts to redo the front, they just won't install themself.

Don't think I'll make CheapSTOC this year. Have fun.

Usually about 50,000 miles they start to go. I replaced the ones on my ST1100s with the Works Pro and have been very happy with it. YMMV.

Which one is the best the progessive or the works not trying to spend alot of money(feeling broke with gas prices)

The 52400-MAJ-G41 (96A-02A) rear shock was installed on 5/10/2008 at 100,270 miles. Took about 1/2 hour, perfect fit. The spring is black, the takeoff was blue. Setup according Owners Manual, Rider + Cargo, Tension Damping at 180 degrees Spring Preload 3(midpoint), sits about 1/2 inch higher in same Preload position.

Went a test ride, seems smoother on rougher roads. Previously the old damper was set full in, it allowed easy compression and slow rebound. Now compression and rebound about the same pushing on the grab rail. There are four 40 MPH perfect pavement and camber sweepers on the route, no noticeable difference at a leisurely 60. All is good.

Might want to check out this thread:

http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/100699.html?1211230300

(be sure to note the archive link near the top)

Just replaced my 18k original 2002 ST1100 shock with a Penske with separate rebound and compression adjustments, plus adjustable ride height. Like a few other shocks, the Penske has low and high speed hydraulic circuits, so you can keep the normal damping quite tight, but not get a harsh ride over bumps.

The difference is unbelievable. Both ride and control are greatly improved, once you spend quite a bit of time tweaking the adjustments to your liking. Its not just the ride. Movement in the rear has a huge impact in steering in the front. With a fully adjustable shock dialed in, the ST1100's handling is greatly improved. The difference is quite noticeable.

I know you don't want to spend $750 on a shock, but there really is a difference. Before you spend $300 on another stock Showa unit, consider how much you spend on other farkles and other cycle stuff. BTW, I ended up with a 525lb spring, and wouldn't recommend any lower.

swilliams1005 said:

Which one is the best the progessive or the works not trying to spend alot of money(feeling broke with gas prices)

Click to expand...

I am in the same boat.
Stock '93 20,000 mile shock bottoms out when 2up, and do not want to spend much money now.

I haven't called in yet, but looks like the Works (not the Works Pro) and the Progressive 420 cost about the same. I can get a new 420 in a one unit, one time special deal, for around $330, and I've read the Works is around $300?

I mainly do 2up riding 85% of the time, and with 2up plus top box and saddlebag filled, probably around 450lbs.

The Works seems better for my situation because it is built for your needs, not a generic one for all like the Progressive. But, many reports of frequent leaking of the Works shock, and no reports of leaking with Progressive.

I have heard that after you buy the Progressive 420, you can call them to swap spring for a heavy spring at no charge. Has anyone done this here, and do you think that will do the job for my fully loaded ride?

If your Works has leaked, how often, and how much to have them repair it?

The Progressive sounds like the quickest and easiest way to go, but will it handle the load even with upgraded spring?

Thanks for the advice!


EDIT: Just got off the phone with Works (they picked up right away). Seems like I was reading old info, or wrong info. The plain Works Racer cost is $459, while the Racer Pro cost is $569. Looks like Progressive 420 price is for me, as long as spring can be upgraded.

EDIT Again: Just got off the phone with Progressive (20+ minute wait). Tech stated there is only the spring that comes on the 420 from the factory. No upgrades. The spring you get is all you get. Strange how I have seen others mentioning upgraded 420 Heavy Spring for the ST1100, and just missed out on the sale of one of these springs last week. Now I am lost again.

Don, where did you get the Penske? And what did it cost, if you don't mind. (I'm not sure I really want to know, but.....)

Thanks,

If you`re an AMA member .............Works used to give a 10% discount.

Don

Penske double adjustable was $735 from Cogent Dynamics. Double adjustable means rebound + slow speed compression. There is a triple adjustable which adds separate high speed compression, but all sellers said not needed for a street bike.

I ended up with a 525lb spring, which is just right.

These also have infinite preload adjustment, plus separate ride height adjustment. The ride height adj is very useful. Without that, you end up cranking in too much preload, trying to get the proper height. You get quite an education setting up this type of unit, versus stock.

Thanks Don. Not in my budget for this year, that's for sure.

If I understand it correctly there is NO adjustment for front suspension? Is that correct? thx..

Dmays said:

If I understand it correctly there is NO adjustment for front suspension? Is that correct? thx..

Click to expand...

There some upgrades, like different springs or valve-emulators avail, but the only active adjustable front suspension I found for the ST1100 is the AK-20 kit by Traxxion, which installation is "in house only", thus going to be expensive...
http://www.traxxion.com/Sport-Adventure-Touring-Front-Suspension-Related/

The only "adjustment" would be to change the fork oil weight. But it's not worth fooling with if you have the stock suspension, IMHO.

I installed a RaceTech Gold Valve / Emulator kit. And the proper weight springs. The Gold Valve replaces the stock valve in the right fork, and the Emualtor fits on top of the damper piston in the left fork.

RaceTech says the stock springs are way, way too soft and this is compensated with way, way too much damping. In fact, according to the RaceTech spring calculator, the stock springs are perfect for a Rider that weighs ZERO pounds. So, the stock springs aren't even close to ideal.

The Gold Valve & Emulator kit and new straight wound springs ( RaceTech does not recommend progressive springs ) can be found online at less than list price. And BTW, Sonic springs are a little less than the RaceTech springs, too. You are looking at about $240 total for parts, plus shipping and the cost of bushings and seals, etc. The OEM bushings and seals are priced right.

The results are a big improvement over OEM. A firm but plush ride, just as RT claims.

There are Progressive rear shocks...two different sources.....running on Ebay right now. Buy it Now's of $434 and $445 with free shipping. Competitive with the stock OEM units from other on line sources.

At 50K miles, I swapped the front springs for weight specific Race Tech springs & used AMSOIL suspension fluid up front. Best, easy fix I could have done. In the rear I went with a WORKS Pro Racer shock, didn't like it, & went to the Progressive shock prior to going to Alaska. Great rear shock! Sent it back after about 50K miles for a rebuild once. I did similar to my VFR.

I'm sure you've covered this a thousand times, I can hear the groans from here. I've just fitted a replacement rear shock on to my ST1100. It had done 51000 miles and a trip to Portugal and back made it feel very tired. Why do longer journeys kill shocks, now that's another question. I have replaced the original blue spring with the only Honda replacement available here, black spring. The units are otherwise identical although the damper control screw would appear to suggest this to be an ABS/TCS unit. Part no. 52400MAJG41*.The only spec difference I can find is that the spring free length is 2.4 mm longer than non ABS. Just to clarify mine is a non ABS bike. The supplier confirms that this is Honda's approved replacement now for the non ABS bikes. I went with a Honda unit for price and hopefully quality, 51000 miles of two up riding and luggage is pretty good and the handling as always been acceptable for one large lump of metal and plastic. The question is this.....have any of you fitted this unit to a non ABS bike and if so what results. I haven't ridden it yet, too cold, icy etc at the moment. Thanks in anticipation.

Upt' North said:

...have any of you fitted this unit to a non ABS bike and if so what results.

Click to expand...

The reason why ABS (and police spec bikes!) come with the "black spring" unit is the increased net weight...
It will fit right in, only when riding solo + bare any luggage it might feel a bit firmer due the slightly stiffer spring.
The shock absorber itself is completely identical, so just throw it at your bike and go ride... ;-)

Thanks ST1100Y,
Yes already fitted it and besides colour noticed no difference until adjusting the damper screw which varies slightly. I have read some horror stories about rear shocks being seized in etc, but this came out no problem.
Thanks for advice and reassurance.
I'll go and have a cup of tea.