ST1300 - Fuel Cap Hanging Up

Hi, guys and gals

While on the road to WeSTOC, my fuel cap started hanging up. I'd turn the key in the cap and it would pop up about 1/8" or so and then just hang there. Gently pulling on the key did no good. I'd close the cap a couple of times, let the mechanism reset, say a silent prayer or two to the "don't let my friggin' key break in the lock" gods and if I got lucky, the cap would release. If not, I'd have to start the prayer routine over again until I got blessed.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to get my locking mechanism back to par would be appreciated.

Thanks!

John

John.... I periodically WD-40 the internal lock mechanism...
I carry the small spray can & straw onboard with the plexus... etc

(Likely some dirt or hardened fuel residue up in the sliders....)

With the cap open... I use a paper towel to drape the cap underneath...
And aim the straw -- spray it right in the slots... then close and re-open several times.

I adopted this procedure after nearly breaking the key on a hot summer day... and I had less than a gallon left...

Just a suggestion.. hope this helps

Have a good trip...

Loosening the fuel cap bolts has been known to get everything back into alignment. A good lube of the moving latch parts once a year helps, too.

--Mark

Excellent!

Mark, I've followed your advice before and figured you'd chime in quickly with some advice. Sam, thanks for your suggestions. Nothing like being a 1,700 miles from home and not being able to get any gas in the tank!!!

Thanks again.

John

I spend way too much time here in the mornings and evenings...

--Mark

Also check for bent/deformed edges and parts in your fuel cap assembly....that could cause the catch to hang up...then you'd really be in trouble..

John,

same thing happened to me 1st time a couple of months ago. When the cap popped up ~1/8", I was able to get the small screwdriver blade on my pocket knife under the lip of the gas cap and finesse it open. Used WD-40 on it after I got home that day, and a few times since then as a preventive measure, and haven't had any trouble with it since, though it is a little balky at times. I discovered that the outer circumference of the portion of the cap that goes into the tank when you close it is almost an interference fit on mine, the dimensions are that close.

BTW, if you see a couple of my Houston Retreads buds in Taos, Joe Urban & Gren Mosley, give 'em my regards.

Ride Safe,

Thanks again, guys. Gnorts (John Strong) and I checked for any dings or deformed thingijabobs and came up empty handed. Before I get out of Dodge (or actually Taos), I'll do the WD 40 thing and hopefully that will do the trick.

John

John Anthony said:

Thanks again, guys. Gnorts (John Strong) and I checked for any dings or deformed thingijabobs and came up empty handed. Before I get out of Dodge (or actually Taos), I'll do the WD 40 thing and hopefully that will do the trick.

John

Click to expand...

WD40 will work, but it evaporates rather quickly... Maybe a little silicone spray?? (washed off with WD40 occasionally to rinse off the dirt)


Putt

John, if you can get your hands on some Triflow, from most auto parts stores, it will give you much better lubricating qualities than WD40. It's not cheap, at $11 a spray can (probably $20 in Taos, for you "touristas"), but it's well worth the extra $$$. It has Teflon in it, and seems to stay slippery much longer than the cheaper stuff.

The large rubber seal on the cap sticks hard to the lip of the tank inlet.

Wipe the seal contact area with that amazing Shin-Etsu grease, and worry no more.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions. Good news is there's a parts store not too far from where we're staying. And when I gassed up today, the lid popped up after only a couple of tries.

John

06-25-2008, 08:20 PM Initial holler for help

06-25-2008, 08:31 PM and

06-25-2008, 08:32 PM


Thats what,,,,,,10 minutes,,pretty good response time.

I wouldn't suggest wd-40 but a dry film lubricant. Don't forget to lube the spring loaded sealing ring on the underside of the cap. That seems to be the part that give me trouble 1st.

On my '04 I removed the cap and blew air into all the openings. Then worked the latch releasing mechanism by hand while lubing it with teflon. That worked for a couple years before I had to do it again.

Right now I'm about 1,500 miles from home and the '07 cap has started doing the same thing. I'll take it off see what can be done with WD-40.

Len

My cap has also started sticking. I end up pushing it back down and turning the key again . I'll have to try cleaning and spraying it too.

John,

I've had the same problem but found the solution. When you unlock the tank you tend to turn the key all the way to the right and then try to open the lid. You're probably turning the key too far for the lid to open. Just back off it a little bit and the latch will open right up. I have actually bent my key trying to open the tank, but ever since I learned how to do it, I haven't had any trouble with it.

Mandel.

Black Magic said:

+1

I applys SE grease to the fairing pocket seals and the gas cap seal also.

Click to expand...

Pablo, what's SE grease?

Just went outside and opened the gas cap. Then I pushed on the rubber gasket or the metal ring just under the gasket, a few times, cycling the lock mechanisim. This seems to have made it work better. Temporary fix till I get home.

Len

bmcdonau said:

Pablo, what's SE grease?

Click to expand...

Google it:

Shin-Etsu Grease

Shin-Etsu Grease 08798-9013
Honda SKU: 08798-9013
List Price $15.85
You Save $3.49
Your Price $12.36

Genuine Honda Shin-Etsu Grease. Used for lubricating rubber door seals. Great for using on the Honda Odyssey sliding doors!