Custom Made Pull Behind Trailer

OP
OP
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Humble, TX
Cool project Texas. Where did you source your wheels from? I agree with your thoughts about not needing the larger wheels, yet I would still be concerned about no suspension, but that's just me. I like the simple suspension on the Rack and Roll trailer. (too bad it's WAY too much $$$)
Thank you Dave. I think I am breaking new ground in some areas. The wheels are actually 'cart' wheels purchased from Northern Tool, but unlike most cart wheels that are solid rubber, these are bicycle style tires with tubes. They are huge hubs that each hold 180 lbs, which is more than sufficient for me (total of 360 lbs). After emailing NT, they do not support using these on the highway, so I will be a guinea pig when it comes to this. I will do a lot of testing with it before I put anything of real value on it, or take it on any long trip. However, several people have used these for horse buggies, and they say these wheels are very well made and have reported no problems. The only real concern I can think of will be the bearings. They will require constant monitoring, and lubrication. But for the trade off on weight and cost, it will be worth it to me. Also, if a wheel breaks, they are cheap to replace. If these do end up working, I plan on always keeping an extra set at home, and caring an extra wheel and grease on long trips.

When it comes to suspension, you will find most people that comment that the suspension on their homebuilt trailers do not even activate due to the fact that the suspension is set at 300 lbs. or higher. They say if they just run with a little less pressure in the tires, that acts as their suspension.

The trailer you show in your like is a awesome looking trailer. Yes it is expensive, but I suppose that is because of it's uniqueness, lightness and low rolling resistance. The wheels are very cool. I wish I had the $600 to buy a pair of them. I am sure they are much better wheels than the ones I am using, but then again, I only paid $40 per wheel with tire.

Due to work requiring a lot from me lately, and being out of town so much, it will probably be another month before I can pick back up on the project. I am very excited about it and hate the fact that I do not have more time to work on it right now. Designing and building this trailer is so much more fun than just buying a trailer (for any price) that I know I am not going to be happy with anyway. Also, there will be a lot of personal satisfaction when it is finally done.

Texas
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
160
Location
Maryland Eastern Shore
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ST 1300
STOC #
7450
Texas,

Looks like even with work responsibilities you are making steady progress!

I agree with you about the suspension. I'm having a hard time finding anything rated low enough to actually provide action with a 150 to 250 pound load. The lightest I have found is 300 lb per side which will not really give much action with a typical camping gear load of maybe 60 lbs max.

I spent some time yesterday looking in auto supply stores for coil over shocks with no luck. I found a bicycle at Walley Mart that had a light coil over shock in the front for suspension, but it was such a of junk from our communist friends in the East that it wouldn't have held up very long.

I have thought hard about using the Rack and Roll type suspension and while I like it a lot, I think I'm back to the HF trailer kit with one leaf removed as the easiest and cheapest solution. Run the tires a bit soft and things will probably be just fine since I don't plan on hauling a china closet in the trailer anyway.

Keep plowing new ground and good luck...I'm back to designing and building my hitch!!!

Joe
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
86
Location
Wildomar Ca
Update on mine. Its an HF trailer with ply decking (Aluminum was $200). I am waiting to purchase the car topper I actually want (Yakima) because of its looks and paint finish (it matches my ST) and its very aerodynamic. The tongue is extended about 11 inches (just by mounting it forward) and I removed one of the springs. I have the SS hub caps and I need to decide if I am going with a swivel hitch or not. Total cost so far is just over $230. The cooler mount will be made after the luggage box is mounted. I didnt narrow the trailer because it is just about perfect for the top box I want (40"). Hell if I am going to pull a trailer it might as well be one that never makes me wish it were bigger. :) I have nice LED trailer lights that I plan to mount right to the luggage box itself.
 

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Joined
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Messages
160
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Maryland Eastern Shore
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ST 1300
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I think I might like to build something like that too.... but I am not sure where to source the wheels & shocks from. This kind of vehicle requires decent wheel bearings, and the spring over/shocks do not need to hold up a 4x4 truck.


My problem exactly!! I've already killed too many brain cells over this thing and I don't really have many to spare!! I'm being sidetracked by silly issues and progress is slow. Trips to LA and San Antonio in the next two weeks will further delay my efforts.....you guys keep up the good work!!
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
86
Location
Wildomar Ca
As light as the load will be in most of these trailers I am almost willing to bet you could make a playwood base to fit your favorite car topper. You could laminate 2 sheets of 1/2 inch marine grade, bolt the topper to it, bolt on the Torsion Axles listed earlier, makes a tongue and call it good. If anything the HF trailer is WAY overbuilt for the load it will carry.
 
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Joined
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As light as the load will be in most of these trailers I am almost willing to bet you could make a playwood base to fit your favorite car topper. You could laminate 2 sheets of 1/2 inch marine grade, bolt the topper to it, bolt on the Torsion Axles listed earlier, makes a tongue and call it good. If anything the HF trailer is WAY overbuilt for the load it will carry.
What I did was attach the cargo box directly to the frame of the trailer, then cut a plywood floor for inside the box, attached some angle iron down both sides of the plywood for bungees to hook to, and then carpeted the plywood. It came out real nice. and now I don't have to worry about anything of weight put inside it breaking the plastic bottom of the the cargo box because the floor INSIDE protects it.

 
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Capt_Gruuvy

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I think I might like to build something like that too.... but I am not sure where to source the wheels & shocks from. This kind of vehicle requires decent wheel bearings, and the spring over/shocks do not need to hold up a 4x4 truck.
I was thinking about 21" Harley front rims, skinny, which I can lace myself.

I'll pop the shock assemblies from an old springer front end we have lying around.

2 x 2 tube and some custom hitch nonsense for length and mount the box on smaller cross members. Quick and easy ...
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Humble, TX
I was thinking about 21" Harley front rims, skinny, which I can lace myself.

I'll pop the shock assemblies from an old springer front end we have lying around.

2 x 2 tube and some custom hitch nonsense for length and mount the box on smaller cross members. Quick and easy ...
Mark,

I would like to see that. Please post pictures of your progress, costs, and where you are able to get parts. Originally I was going to use some skinny motorcycle wheels, but I could not find any that didn't cost an arm and a leg. Unfortunately I don't have any parts laying around that I can use, so I have to buy everything that I need...all the way down to the Grade 8 washers.

Texas
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
160
Location
Maryland Eastern Shore
Bike
ST 1300
STOC #
7450
I was thinking about 21" Harley front rims, skinny, which I can lace myself.

I'll pop the shock assemblies from an old springer front end we have lying around.

2 x 2 tube and some custom hitch nonsense for length and mount the box on smaller cross members. Quick and easy ...
I was thinking 1" x 1" steel tubing. My old 6,000 car trailer used 2x2 for a frame with 2x6 wood decking and it's hauled my 9,000 lb tractor too. I guess it really depends upon wall thickness. If I had a TIG torch I'd be using AL and not steel. I'm using a cat 1 tractor top link for the trailer end and a 1/2" pin on my bike hitch with the hole in the pin for a pad lock and security cable instead of chains. I still don't have what makes me feel comfortable for springs. I hate to see you tear up Springer trees for the trailer, but if it's what ya got...go for it!!
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Humble, TX
I was thinking 1" x 1" steel tubing. My old 6,000 car trailer used 2x2 for a frame with 2x6 wood decking and it's hauled my 9,000 lb tractor too. I guess it really depends upon wall thickness. If I had a TIG torch I'd be using AL and not steel. I'm using a cat 1 tractor top link for the trailer end and a 1/2" pin on my bike hitch with the hole in the pin for a pad lock and security cable instead of chains. I still don't have what makes me feel comfortable for springs. I hate to see you tear up Springer trees for the trailer, but if it's what ya got...go for it!!
I am using 1" square tubing for my trailer. It is 1/8" thick, which is plenty strong enough for the load I plan on carrying. Also, my aluminum decking is 1/8" thick.

Texas
 

Capt_Gruuvy

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Fairfield, IA
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7441
You would throw up if you saw what I had sitting around in the shop ... including an original 1936 console.

I got wheels, springs about 200 gas tanks and I lost count of fenders.

What I started to think about was tricking out the trailer with softail fenders ....

I just got a new tig .... my brain is thinking up all sorts of things to make and it will only get worse with time.
 

ST1300 Alicia

aka GSA Girl & KLR Girl
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Capt Gruuvy Old Buddy Old Pal. You remember Me, Alicia, from Turbo Tom's Tech SToc don't You? Any Time you Need Some Help Inventorying Your Treasures, Just Give Me a Call and I will Be Glad to Help.

Sincerely
Alicia in Clovis
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Humble, TX
You would throw up if you saw what I had sitting around in the shop ... including an original 1936 console.

I got wheels, springs about 200 gas tanks and I lost count of fenders.

What I started to think about was tricking out the trailer with softail fenders ....

I just got a new tig .... my brain is thinking up all sorts of things to make and it will only get worse with time.
It sounds like you not only have almost all of the parts that you need to build a very custom trailer, but also one that will be beautiful. I for one really look forward to seeing it.

Texas
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
11
Location
Colorado Springs
Bike
2004 ST1300
All,
This is a great thread. The talk of HF trailers and potential maximum load weight has me believing I can take "dual sporting" to a new level! Photos to follow soon.

Later,
Ken
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
160
Location
Maryland Eastern Shore
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ST 1300
STOC #
7450
Ken,

Just playing around I put my DRZ 400 on a 2"x8"x12' board laying on the top of my HF trailer....with a 6' track and a fold-up or removable ramp, it could happen!!!
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
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Colorado Springs
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2004 ST1300
Lowrider,
That's exactly what I was thinking. I've got a 250 2-strk KTM so it'll be a bit lighter than a four stroke.

I think my big concern will be the CG with the bike on the trailer. Depending on how the trailer performs I may have to lower it a bit.

I'm also planning to load my gear bag on the back of my ST in order to off-set the ST to trailer/dirt bike weight ratio.

What kind of decking are you running on your trailer? In the interest of saving weight I was considering expanded aluminum mesh or no decking and just run a rail for the dirt bike to set on.


Regards,
Ken
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
160
Location
Maryland Eastern Shore
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ST 1300
STOC #
7450
Ken,

I don't have anything on mine for a deck yet. I bought one of the Explorer roof rake baggage thingies and will use that to haul camping and other stuff.

I was joking about pulling the DRZ on trailer and another behind it with my canoe but no one laughed.

Actually, the DRZ will most surely be top heavy on the trailer, although I was surprised at how little it moves when I rock it side to side while strapped to the trailer. I took the small leaf spring out on my HF. Also, there needs to be some thought and testing on weight shift on stopping and how that will effect tongue weight at the ST's hitch. I'm also concerned abouthow it will behave in wet weather where the ST stops well and there is potential for the trailer to break loose and get you into real trouble.

Test pilots don't get paid enough!!
 
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Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
11
Location
Colorado Springs
Bike
2004 ST1300
"Test pilots don't get paid enough!!"

I've got a mechanical engineering and motorcycling friend that seems to think I'll be fine towing my dirt bike as long as I'm careful. My response to him is that my ST isn't a car/truck so if things go wrong they'll REALLY go wrong. I'll be proceeding with caution!

I did find one photo of moto-on-moto action and it does appear to be an HF trailer. It looks like he has far more weight than I would ever consider towing. However a full-dress Harley probably out weighs an ST by a few pounds.



Regards,
Ken
 

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