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Thread: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

  1. #1
    Motorcycle nut the Ferret's Avatar
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    Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    Got a slash in my rear tire/flat last night and I'm due for a new rear skin anyway. So it's time to get the back wheel off.

    Got out my service manual and read it like 4 times. Stripped off all the luggage and the sub fender, and squirted WD40 on the muffler clamp bolts to get ready for today.

    Came here and read a bunch of threads last night and made a list of stuff I'd need.

    Stopped and picked up a 27 MM socket at Sears today (all they had was a 12 point)

    Stopped at my local dealer and asked for Hondapro 60% moly paste. They looked at me like I had 3 eyes. Didn't have any didn't offer to order any. Wanted me to use Yamaha all purpose grease. I left.

    Called the next closest dealer (25 miles) and they didn't have any but knew what it was and offered to order it, so it'll be there in a couple of days.

    OK so now I'm ready to tackle rear wheel removal (Keep in mind I don't consider myself much of a mechanic and am especially scared cause this is my first shaft drive bike..I can do a chain drive bike so I should be able to handle this..right?)

    If I read it right: I undo the muffler clamps, remove the muffler hanger bolts (2 on each) and pivot/swing the mufflers out of the way using 10 & 12 mm sockets. (put down cardboard to keep from scratching mufflers)

    Then there is some black caliper mounting bolt (14 MM wrench). I back it out but don't remove it completely? (no need to remove disc pads even though the manual says to do it...right?)

    Then the caliper will come off the disc and move out of the way ? (although it doesn't look like it would so I'll have to take your word for that) and hang it out of the way by a bungee cord (put a wedge in between the disc pads)

    Then I use the 27MM socket and an 8 MM allen and remove the axle nut/washer.

    Then support the wheel and pull out the axle

    Then remove support and move the wheel to the left and it will drop down and I can roll it out?

    Sound about right?

    Are the splines I'm supposed to lube on re-assembly on the wheel I rolled out? or in the rear end part still left on the bike?

    The bearings I'm supposed to check are all in the wheel I rolled out? or are some of them left in the rear end on the bike?

    On reassembly I should put litium grease on all seals and bearings and the axle, moly 60 on the splines and anti seize on the threads on all bolts.

    RIGHT?


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  2. #2
    AdminiSTrator Mellow's Avatar
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    The caliper isn't going anywhere until you pull out the axle... then you just support it off to the side w/bungee cord or something.

  3. #3
    Motorcycle nut
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    Thanks Joe, will it move to the left with the wheel and then come off as the wheel drops down?

    The rest of that look right? What about the bearings and splines I need to lube.

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    FLSTRDR's Avatar
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    I would clean all the old molly from the splines in both the wheel and hub. Remove the o-ring from the wheel side before you clean the splines. I used a tooth brush to help get into the splines. Clean the o-ring also. Reapply the molly on the o-ring and splines and remount. Be care not to over goop up the splines but to have a nice even coverage. I use an acid brush for doing that. I also clean around the seal area and lube the seals and put a thin coat on the axle before reinstalling.
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    One Track Mind dduelin's Avatar
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    The male part of the splines remains on the wheel and the female part stays behind in the rear drive "pumpkin". Clean and relube with moly paste as described.

    There are four bearings in the rear wheel that we often talk about as owners. As I recall you can get a finger on three of them to check for smoothness but one is under the male part of the spline drive - the so called driven spline. It is easy to remove the driven spline to check the fourth bearing and also the rubber biscuits or "monkey nuts" in the cush drive.

    The rear caliper does indeed swing up and out of the way when the black stopper bolt is removed along with sliding the rear axle part way out the right side. The caliper has a rear mount that the axle slides through when the caliper is in position and the axle slid all the way in place. With the axle part way out the caliper is free to swivel up or down if the stopper bolt is removed.
    Last edited by dduelin; 10-13-2008 at 01:32 PM.


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  6. #6
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    You should only have to loosen the muffler clamps on the right side to allow clearance to withdraw the axle. I don't usually have to mess with the left muffler.

    With respect to the caliper stopper bolt, I find it easier to remove it completely. Honda says to replace this bolt because it comes with some kind of thread retaining compound pre-applied. I usually just dab a drop of medium strength locktite on and re-use the bolt.

    Once you have it apart, you'll see it's no worse and in some ways simpler than a chain drive. For one thing it only goes together one way, no need to adjust the chain tension.

  7. #7
    DaveST's Avatar
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    FWIW. I drop the pipe on the left side as well. Only takes a bit of time. Makes it easier to see what's going on when you are trying to get everything back together. Especially to see if the outside brake pad is in correctly. Quess how I know that it can be done wrong!

  8. #8
    Motorcycle nut
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

    Thanks for all the tips fellas. I got interupted to help put a new kitchen sink faucet in for my wife (think I'd rather work on motorcycles LOL) but I went ahead and swung both mufflers out of the way and ready to work on the caliper/axle now after dinner.

    Arrghh tomorrow I'll get some med loc-tite.

  9. #9
    Cave Canem Hound's Avatar
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST1300

    If you don't drop the left pipe and it has the heat shield on it that was introduced on later models, you will have great difficulty accessing the caliper stopper bolt unless you remove the shield. The stopper bolt is very hard to remove due to the thread lock, and requires a socket and a wrench with some leverage. The bolt head is not particularly hard metal either, so be careful. You will likely need some muscle on the axle nut too!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bolt.jpg  
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  10. #10
    AdminiSTrator Mellow's Avatar
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    Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST1300

    Quote Originally Posted by Hound View Post
    If you don't drop the left pipe and it has the heat shield on it that was introduced on later models, you will have great difficulty accessing the caliper stopper bolt unless you remove the shield. The stopper bolt is very hard to remove due to the thread lock, and requires a socket and a wrench with some leverage. The bolt head is not particularly hard metal either, so be careful. You will likely need some muscle on the axle nut too!
    Yup...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1353.JPG  

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