Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

the Ferret

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Got a slash in my rear tire/flat last night and I'm due for a new rear skin anyway. So it's time to get the back wheel off.

Got out my service manual and read it like 4 times. Stripped off all the luggage and the sub fender, and squirted WD40 on the muffler clamp bolts to get ready for today.

Came here and read a bunch of threads last night and made a list of stuff I'd need.

Stopped and picked up a 27 MM socket at Sears today (all they had was a 12 point)

Stopped at my local dealer and asked for Hondapro 60% moly paste. They looked at me like I had 3 eyes. Didn't have any didn't offer to order any. Wanted me to use Yamaha all purpose grease. I left.

Called the next closest dealer (25 miles) and they didn't have any but knew what it was and offered to order it, so it'll be there in a couple of days.

OK so now I'm ready to tackle rear wheel removal (Keep in mind I don't consider myself much of a mechanic and am especially scared cause this is my first shaft drive bike..I can do a chain drive bike so I should be able to handle this..right?) :eek:

If I read it right: I undo the muffler clamps, remove the muffler hanger bolts (2 on each) and pivot/swing the mufflers out of the way using 10 & 12 mm sockets. (put down cardboard to keep from scratching mufflers)

Then there is some black caliper mounting bolt (14 MM wrench). I back it out but don't remove it completely? (no need to remove disc pads even though the manual says to do it...right?)

Then the caliper will come off the disc and move out of the way ? (although it doesn't look like it would so I'll have to take your word for that) and hang it out of the way by a bungee cord (put a wedge in between the disc pads)

Then I use the 27MM socket and an 8 MM allen and remove the axle nut/washer.

Then support the wheel and pull out the axle

Then remove support and move the wheel to the left and it will drop down and I can roll it out?

Sound about right?

Are the splines I'm supposed to lube on re-assembly on the wheel I rolled out? or in the rear end part still left on the bike?

The bearings I'm supposed to check are all in the wheel I rolled out? or are some of them left in the rear end on the bike?

On reassembly I should put litium grease on all seals and bearings and the axle, moly 60 on the splines and anti seize on the threads on all bolts.

RIGHT?
 

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Joe
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The caliper isn't going anywhere until you pull out the axle... then you just support it off to the side w/bungee cord or something.
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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Thanks Joe, will it move to the left with the wheel and then come off as the wheel drops down?

The rest of that look right? What about the bearings and splines I need to lube.
 
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I would clean all the old molly from the splines in both the wheel and hub. Remove the o-ring from the wheel side before you clean the splines. I used a tooth brush to help get into the splines. Clean the o-ring also. Reapply the molly on the o-ring and splines and remount. Be care not to over goop up the splines but to have a nice even coverage. I use an acid brush for doing that. I also clean around the seal area and lube the seals and put a thin coat on the axle before reinstalling.
Sonny
 

dduelin

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The male part of the splines remains on the wheel and the female part stays behind in the rear drive "pumpkin". Clean and relube with moly paste as described.

There are four bearings in the rear wheel that we often talk about as owners. As I recall you can get a finger on three of them to check for smoothness but one is under the male part of the spline drive - the so called driven spline. It is easy to remove the driven spline to check the fourth bearing and also the rubber biscuits or "monkey nuts" in the cush drive.

The rear caliper does indeed swing up and out of the way when the black stopper bolt is removed along with sliding the rear axle part way out the right side. The caliper has a rear mount that the axle slides through when the caliper is in position and the axle slid all the way in place. With the axle part way out the caliper is free to swivel up or down if the stopper bolt is removed.
 
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wjbertrand

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You should only have to loosen the muffler clamps on the right side to allow clearance to withdraw the axle. I don't usually have to mess with the left muffler.

With respect to the caliper stopper bolt, I find it easier to remove it completely. Honda says to replace this bolt because it comes with some kind of thread retaining compound pre-applied. I usually just dab a drop of medium strength locktite on and re-use the bolt.

Once you have it apart, you'll see it's no worse and in some ways simpler than a chain drive. For one thing it only goes together one way, no need to adjust the chain tension.
 
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FWIW. I drop the pipe on the left side as well. Only takes a bit of time. Makes it easier to see what's going on when you are trying to get everything back together. Especially to see if the outside brake pad is in correctly. Quess how I know that it can be done wrong!
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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Thanks for all the tips fellas. I got interupted to help put a new kitchen sink faucet in for my wife (think I'd rather work on motorcycles LOL) but I went ahead and swung both mufflers out of the way and ready to work on the caliper/axle now after dinner.

Arrghh tomorrow I'll get some med loc-tite.
 

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Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST1300

If you don't drop the left pipe and it has the heat shield on it that was introduced on later models, you will have great difficulty accessing the caliper stopper bolt unless you remove the shield. The stopper bolt is very hard to remove due to the thread lock, and requires a socket and a wrench with some leverage. The bolt head is not particularly hard metal either, so be careful. You will likely need some muscle on the axle nut too!
 

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Re: Must pull rear wheel on ST1300

If you don't drop the left pipe and it has the heat shield on it that was introduced on later models, you will have great difficulty accessing the caliper stopper bolt unless you remove the shield. The stopper bolt is very hard to remove due to the thread lock, and requires a socket and a wrench with some leverage. The bolt head is not particularly hard metal either, so be careful. You will likely need some muscle on the axle nut too!
Yup...
 

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the Ferret

the Ferret

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Shazaaaam

Pulled the caliper bolt. Took off the axle nut and washer, pulled the axle part way out, slid the caliper off the disc (not much room kinds hits the wheel rim, but it eventually came out and bungeed it to the left, pulled the axle the rest of the way out. Tugged on the wheel a little to the left and ...it's off :D

I'm so excited. You see, I view this as a major thing to be able to do it myself...well, with your advice. You guys are the best!

Axle was awfully dry and the caliper bolt felt "gritty" coming out. Bearings feel nice and smooth (at least the 3 I can easily get to)

Now to get some new rubber on this rim.
 

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Joe
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That's all normal.. the axles get dry.. mine had rusty water on it.. LOL I've ridden in the rain on every trip I've taken since I got the bike. Some were some good toad stranglers.

There's other bearings to look at the wheel, the side that was connected to the final drive. You'll see a large round clip to pull, then shimmy that part of the wheel out..

You'll see the bearings that experience the most failures here.

dannyk has a good pic here:
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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LOL Joe you are trying to push me past my limits... large round clip? How do you pull it?
 

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Joe
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Nah.. you'll find out when you're done it's easy stuff.. the first time is always a little tough as you don't know what you're getting into but you got a lot of help here.

I can't remember what I used to remove the clip needlenose pliers maybe, or a screw driver.

Here's the fiche. It's part 17 on the diagram.. doesn't take much to remove it.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/1/Make/Honda/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/5148/Model/ST1300A/GroupID/185987/Group/REAR_WHEEL
 
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If you carefully smack the right muffler with a ball peen hammer where the axle touchs it when you pull the axle out before pushing the muffler down, you never have to do that step again cause the dent you put in the bottom of the muffler will allow the axle to come out without all that loosening of the muffler bolts etc. And the dent in the bottom of the muffler is not noticeable when you're standing up. If you lay down next to the bike you may see the dent. The shop in ND that did my rear tire hit my muffler at least 3 times before they got the axle out and I didn't know it until I changed the tire when I got home!!
 

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If you carefully smack the right muffler with a ball peen hammer where the axle touchs it when you pull the axle out before pushing the muffler down, you never have to do that step again cause the dent you put in the bottom of the muffler will allow the axle to come out without all that loosening of the muffler bolts etc. And the dent in the bottom of the muffler is not noticeable when you're standing up. If you lay down next to the bike you may see the dent. The shop in ND that did my rear tire hit my muffler at least 3 times before they got the axle out and I didn't know it until I changed the tire when I got home!!
A dent would certainly work but it is likely you would never get the muffler clamp bolts loose when you did have to. Loosening the clamp every so often keeps them limber.
 

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While I had the rear wheel out (it was my first time too, and I was unbearably smug about accomplishing it), I took the opportunity to fit a kind of "front mud flap" to give extra protection to the rear shock, ABS modulators etc, and keep the front of the swingarm clean. The pic is a commercially available one (Bike-Quip), but I made mine from a chunky rubber floor tile.
 

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ChucksKLRST

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While I had the rear wheel outThe pic is a commercially available one (Bike-Quip), but I made mine from a chunky rubber floor tile.
Looks alot like mine, that I made yesterday. I also have my rear wheel off waiting for a tire mount tomorrow.
 
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Use a cheater bar on the ratchet to remove the axle nut; a 1/2 inch drive is best. Be sure to grease the axle on the way back in with axle greasel, not moly paste. Tap the axle in with a rubber mallet. The process is far easier than it looks; the most difficult part was getting the rear fender off.
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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What are you guys using to clean out the old molly paste, just a rag or some type of lubricant?

Chuck what a great picture of the calipe and brake pads.
 
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