Must pull rear wheel on ST 1300

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the Ferret

the Ferret

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Ok picked up my moly paste this morning, got some blue loc-tite (medium) got some rubber gloves and a small brush.

3 questions on reassembly

(1) the moly paste..I'm supposed to use the small brush and what put a glaze coating on the spline in the wheel and on the hub? Not gloppy? sort of thin like painting them? It is not supposed to fill up the teeth? (seemed like there was a lot on there in when I had to clean it off upon dissasembly)

(2) I assume (as in dissambly) I have to mount the wheel, put the axle part way in, then install the brake caliper, and then slide the axle the rest of the way in?

(3) the guy at the shop where I got the tire changed said NOT to put loc-tite on the caliper bolt threads but others here have said to do it, so what's the concensus? Loc tite or not?

Thanks in advance for any avice.
 

ChucksKLRST

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Ok picked up my moly paste this morning, got some blue loc-tite (medium) got some rubber gloves and a small brush.

3 questions on reassembly

(1) the moly paste..I'm supposed to use the small brush and what put a glaze coating on the spline in the wheel and on the hub? Not gloppy? sort of thin like painting them? It is not supposed to fill up the teeth? (seemed like there was a lot on there in when I had to clean it off upon dissasembly)

(2) I assume (as in dissambly) I have to mount the wheel, put the axle part way in, then install the brake caliper, and then slide the axle the rest of the way in?

(3) the guy at the shop where I got the tire changed said NOT to put loc-tite on the caliper bolt threads but others here have said to do it, so what's the concensus? Loc tite or not?

Thanks in advance for any avice.

As stated in my pictorial, I reuse the Caliper Stopper Bolt, and I do put lock-tight on it, because it came with lock-tight from the factory. I have done this for 70k miles on my ST1100 and now for 60K miles on my ST1300. No issues. I am assuming the reason Honda wants you to replace the Caliper Stopper Bolt, is because the factory lock-tight is no longer effective after disassembly. Most people don?t have lock-tight or even know what it is. I believe, from Honda?s point of view, this is a liability issue.
In short it is your bike and your call. What ever makes you comfortable.
 

ChucksKLRST

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Ok picked up my moly paste this morning, got some blue loc-tite (medium) got some rubber gloves and a small brush.

3 questions on reassembly

(1) the moly paste..I'm supposed to use the small brush and what put a glaze coating on the spline in the wheel and on the hub? Not gloppy? sort of thin like painting them? It is not supposed to fill up the teeth? (seemed like there was a lot on there in when I had to clean it off upon dissasembly)



I use an old tooth brush. See My Pics on reinstalling rear wheel, in the article section.

(2) I assume (as in dissambly) I have to mount the wheel, put the axle part way in, then install the brake caliper, and then slide the axle the rest of the way in?


See My Pics on reinstalling rear wheel, in the article section.

Thanks in advance for any avice.

>>>>>>>
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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Thanks Chuck..I didn't see your article on reinstalling the wheel (only the one on checking the flange bearing). Just went and found it after reading the above post. Just what I needed thanks. Very well done too. :bow1:
 

ChucksKLRST

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Ok picked up my moly paste this morning, got some blue loc-tite (medium) got some rubber gloves and a small brush.


Thanks in advance for any avice.



While you had the wheel off, did you go and check you Drive Flange Bearings using my Pictorial Instructions in the ST1300 Maint. Article section?
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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Honestly no I didn't. I havent put it back together yet obviously, but at 8,000miles and with the other 3 bearings that I can feel without further disassembly feeling smooth as silk, I'm thinking maybe it will be ok until the next tire change. Heck, I'm already in way, way over my head. :eek:
 

ChucksKLRST

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I'm thinking maybe it will be ok until the next tire change. Heck, I'm already in way, way over my head. :eek:
Easy to do, just follow the pictorial. Let us know how it all turns out. We are with you all the way. If nessersay give me a call 940-692-6844.
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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LOL Pat, I am NO wrench. Never been very good with my hands which is why I went into sales for a profession. Can't saw straight, can't hammer straight. My brother is the wrench in the family (and the carpenter, and the plumber and the electrician). I'm usually the go for it guy..as in go get me a #2 phillips, or go get me a level, or go get me a 14 MM socket ha ha, but I'm trying (and trying not to mess things up).

If I'd have had some snap ring pliars I would have tried removing that big snap ring, but no way am I going to try it with a screwdriver.

next time the wheel comes off I'll have the snap ring pliars and dive a little deeper.

Baby steps ;)
 
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the Ferret

the Ferret

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YAHOO..look why I accomplished today. Hardest part was getting the two splined things together. Took me about 4 or 5 tries and that dang wheel is heavy! But it finally went together and all in all things went pretty smoothly. Thanks to all who offered advice and Special Thanks to ChuckKLRST for his wonderful pictures and instructions. Won't be near as afraid to tackle this job next time.



 

Mellow

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Nice... I usually sit facing the back of the bike and roll the tire/wheel on my two feet - bottom of fee facing each other - then I can lift up with them to line things up.. everyone has a different approach and I'm sure there are easier ones.

Congrats Mick. The front wheel is even easier in my opinion.
 

ChucksKLRST

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Congrats, The best thing is, if it is wrong, then one has no one to blame but them self.:D Just kidding.

What makes working on your bike a lot easer is a lift table. I have had mine a little over two years now. Should have bought one 25 years ago.

It makes working on your bike so much more enjoyable. Also start collecting the tools you will need, slowly but surely. Having the right tool for the job is paramount for doing and enjoying a job well done.
 
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I am just learning about the rear wheel. What happens to the shaft drive and the oil in it?
You replace it about every other oil change. Seriously, and like Tom said, the rear drive gear oil only comes out through the final drive's drain plug. You should find that pulling a shaft-drive rear MC wheel is so much simpler than a chain-drive.

PS - There's no need to loosen or remove the port side muffler ... only the starboard side needs to be moved.
 

okmurdog

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Port is left and starboard is right when facing the front or forward for you landlubbers out there.
Go Navy!!
Arrrrgggggh...how right ye are matey!...shiver me timbers.

(In the spirit of national talk like a pirate day, and former member of the Navy)

:D


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk
 
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The easy way I learned was that both "left" and "port" contain four letters while "right" and "starboard" have extra letters.
"A sailer named 'Red' 'Left' 'Port'. This short ditty gives you the color, civilian side and naval side.......opposite being 'green', 'right', and 'starboard'.
 
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