Quick test of Motorcycle Battery...

RCS

RCS

Joined
Jul 3, 2008
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Location
Stamford, CT
I am new to motorcycles with batteries so with colder months coming I read about how to test them. Below is what I've learned. Is this right? Is there a better way to get a quick replace/don't replace reading?

Steps:

1. Make sure battery is fully charged.
2. Turn on high beams for three minutes to eliminate "surface charge" in battery.
3. Put a Voltmeter on battery.
4. Volts should be in the 12.3 volt(V) to 12.6V range.
5. Perform load test A - turn on ignition/headlight but don't start engine. Voltmeter should show at least 11.2V. If reading is less than 10V, replace the battery.
6. Perform load test B - watch voltmeter while starting motorcycle. If volts dip below 10V, during the starting process, replace the battery. (the video below is only a small part of information I've read/watched on the internet)


http://www.expertvillage.com/video/18218_motorcycle-battery-two.htm

Also note from MCNews article (http://www.mcnews.com/mcnews/articles/battery.htm) - "A fully charged battery is only 65% as strong at 32? as it was at 80?, and at zero, it drops to only 40% capacity."
 
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Update:

I inherited this battery with the 2004 bike. It is a Power-Sonic Super Sport Series PTZ14S. According to my internet searches it costs $74 and generates 145 CCA versus the Yuasa YTZ14S that generates 230 CCA. Stamped on the battery is "H01" which, according to the manufacturer, means the battery was manufactured in January 2008.

The battery passed all the tests in my previous post (above) with flying colors. So, since I'll be riding great distances in cold weather should I upgrad to the Yuasa with 230 CCA or take my chances?

(The technician at Batterystuff.com said that the Power-Sonic battery should be fine if I'm not parking the bike outside overnight. Also that Powersonic was conservative in designating their CCA and Yuasa more liberal.)
 
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Wow... guess my battery is a bit hosed...

I rode a few hours on Sunday... Parked the bike and connected the tender.

With the bike on and only headlights on I was showing 11.5 - That wasn't even after step 2

It only took about 1.5 mins for it to drop to 10.5 and then you could see it drop much faster, it was 9.5 pretty fast.
 
Agreed with all steps but #2... just let it stand a hour or so.
3 mins is HARD on these small batteries.

Mellow... better start saving yr pennies! :)
 
Step 2 is doing more than eliminating surface charge LOL.

It's around 9amp oem high beams plus whatever else in on with the key including the ecu.

After step 2 turn bike off wait an then measure voltage. (allow the battery to recover)

Sound like your battery is up to snuff.

Joe what did the battery come back up to after the test or did you hook it back up to the tender?
 
st1300r said:
Step 2 is doing more than eliminating surface charge LOL.

It's around 9amp oem high beams plus whatever else in on with the key including the ecu.

After step 2 turn bike off wait an then measure voltage. (allow the battery to recover)

Sound like your battery is up to snuff.

Joe what did the battery come back up to after the test or did you hook it back up to the tender?
Click to expand...

Yes I did... but just went out and unplugged the tender... turned the bike on and it hit 11.1... then in 1/2 second intervals dropped to 9.5 quickly..
 
My battery is fairly new and cranking ok in the cold.
When I get my battery tender back from my neighbor (teenagers:rolleyes:)
I'll take some numbers for comparison but that doesn't sound good.
 
OK- I ran this test on my battery that I think is five years old (the one I bought the replacement to replace). Here are my results, and I invite your feedback.

1) Battery beginning voltage (right off tender): 13.03 volts
2) Turn on key and high beams:
after 1 minute: 11.95 volts
after 2 minutes: 11.92 volts
after 3 minutes: 11.90 volts
key to "off" allow battery to sit for one minute- returns to 12.69 volts
3) Turn key to "on" and battery dips to 11.91 volts
4) Start bike while monitoring: Dips to 9.80 volts, but recovers to just over 10 volts while bike turns over prior to start. (Nice quick start- the dip was VERY brief.)
5) Turn off bike (kill engine, key to off), let battery rest for one minute- 12.69 volts

From all of this, I would guess the battery is pretty good- but it let me down on an overnight trip. I did find one dirty terminal- and fixed it.

Thoughts?
 
I used a very good volt meter. The connections were solid and although honesty prevents me from claiming they were at the terminal, they might as well have been... and that's a fairly educated opinion.
 
TexTom said:
I got an '06 and I just bought my 3rd battery. So about 2 years per.........
Had my '98 and only bought 1 battery for it in 6 years.:confused:
:06biker:TexTom
Click to expand...

awww.. you didn't go there... now George will chime in with the whole 'another reason....' speech.. :doh1:
 
Mellow said:
Wow... guess my battery is a bit hosed...

I rode a few hours on Sunday... Parked the bike and connected the tender.

With the bike on and only headlights on I was showing 11.5 - That wasn't even after step 2

It only took about 1.5 mins for it to drop to 10.5 and then you could see it drop much faster, it was 9.5 pretty fast.
Click to expand...

Looks like I'm okay now.. ordered an OEM battery here from Tim @ Two Brothers Tires and it was delivered to my door WITHIN 24 hrs of my order.

It's showing 12.8 after the test, not that I had to test a new battery, but what the heck.
 
I just got off the phone with Tim, ordered the YTZ14S battery. It's 2:30 my time (PST) and Tim will get it shipped out today. Great service..........:bow1:

He's got my bussiness!
Thanks Tim.
 
Okay. The Power-Sonic Super Sport Series PTZ14S $74 battery I inherited with my bike is now 2.5+ years old (Jan 08 it was new) and has taken me 20,000 miles. Put the bike on the tender and getting ready to perform the load test again.

Should the battery fail, Tim at Two Brothers will get the order for a new $148 YUASA tonight!

(the price difference between these two batteries alone should make this change obvious, but I'll test anyway)
 
The results are in....no new battery needed at this time...

********************

Steps:

1. Make sure battery is fully charged. The fully charged battery reads 13.48V.

2. Turn on high beams for three minutes to eliminate "surface charge" in battery. Battery reads 12.43 volts when headlight on for 90 seconds.

3. Put a Voltmeter on battery.

4. Volts should be in the 12.3 volt(V) to 12.6V range. Volts read 13.1.

5. Perform load test A - turn on ignition/headlight but don't start engine. Voltmeter should show at least 11.2V. If reading is less than 10V, replace the battery. Volts read 12.37.

6. Perform load test B - watch voltmeter while starting motorcycle. If volts dip below 10V, during the starting process, replace the battery. Volts read 11.2 lowest at Start 1. Volts read 11.2 lowest at Start 2. Volts read 13 in between Starts and after Starts.
 
Whenever you get a "new" Yuasa battery, I suggest sending in the date code right away. I bought one and found out it was already three years old. I emailed Yuasa and they said while in storage the voltage should be checked every three months. Now I don't think that really happened in the warehouse. When I pay for a battery, I think I should get a new battery. I got a refund from the dealer.

John-
 
My 97 Pacific Coast started perfectly when I left home. Stopped at Honda Dealer to pick up oil and filter. Battery did not have enough power to start bike. Luckily dealer is located on a hill so I was able to push start bike.

Now, some may ask why I did not just go back into dealer and purchase a new battery. Well, it's nearing the end of my riding season. I'm going to test the battery. If I need a new one, I'll wait until spring to replace.

For now, just want to say thank you for this post. As always, the people here are so very helpful.

Btw, any recommendations for a voltmeter/battery tester?
 
carpdm said:
My 97 Pacific Coast started perfectly when I left home. Stopped at Honda Dealer to pick up oil and filter. Battery did not have enough power to start bike. Luckily dealer is located on a hill so I was able to push start bike.

Now, some may ask why I did not just go back into dealer and purchase a new battery. Well, it's nearing the end of my riding season. I'm going to test the battery. If I need a new one, I'll wait until spring to replace.

For now, just want to say thank you for this post. As always, the people here are so very helpful.

Btw, any recommendations for a voltmeter/battery tester?
Click to expand...
I have had one of these for years and it has served me well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

I always test my MC battteries and charging system before heading out on a long trip. Too many bad experiences, especially with the ST1300 and sub par batteries for that application (Scorpion, Motobatt).

Best AGM I have found for a ST1300:
http://www.batteryweb.com/motorcycle-batteries-detail.cfm?model=PTZ14S

FWIW, best AGM I have found for a KLR 650 and it appears to be made better than any other AGM I have seen, made by Deka in the USA, supurb batteries but limited applications:
http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank-ETX15L-Battery.html?Category_Code=kawasaki-kl650a-klr-battery
 
You already have the tester.. the bike itself.

Just put a voltmeter to the bike while cranking the starter, if voltage at the battery drops below 10, time to replace.

That is all the big testers are doing, just measuring voltage under a significant load.
 
Went to start my bike today and only the neutral and the oil light came on. No noise from the FI's. When I press the starter there is nothing. The bike was hooked to a battery tender and the light on the tender is green. Is it the battery or is there another issue. Can the bike be jumped from the car. Thanks.
 
etalors said:
Went to start my bike today and only the neutral and the oil light came on. No noise from the FI's. When I press the starter there is nothing. The bike was hooked to a battery tender and the light on the tender is green. Is it the battery or is there another issue. Can the bike be jumped from the car. Thanks.
Click to expand...

First thing is check the battery terminals are clean and tight.
 
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